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Anybody here on the new switchblade?

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Anybody here on the new switchblade?
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flag claystanger
Posted: Mar 4, 2021 at 18:51 Quote
I went off pivots reconditioned to start out on the sag and compression for my size and I've made minor tweak from there that have helped with some improvements.

The rear tire is a DHR that comes stock so I think I'll switch it to the aggressor to see if that helps. I would be surprised if I saw a big difference that I'm hoping for.
flag tkrumroy
Posted: Mar 4, 2021 at 20:54 Quote
I’m interested to see what you think. Again man I’m surprised because owned the HTv2 for 11 months and immediately felt like this bike felt lighter on the climbs and faster on the technical pieces.
flag NorCalNomad
O+
Posted: Mar 5, 2021 at 13:50 Quote
In my experience there is no better way to make a trail bike seem slow on the up to to have a DHR on the rear
flag notnew
Posted: Mar 7, 2021 at 9:15 Quote
Dhrs are fine.
But get with the program, man...the compound and casing make a big difference. DHR... is like saying i have a bmw but mine has a basic engine, not an m5....no... not the same...
max grip vs maxterra (max grip is sticky... more friction), 120tpi vs 60 (heavier casing)
i went from normal 60 2ply to 120 tpi 3C on alu xm 1501s and my warm up time over a road section dropped a shade over 5%.
pivot dont give you light wheels. there is a world of difference between cheaper DT xm 1900 or 1700s and the lighter 1500 or 1200 wheels. (yes xm1700 are 800and cheap for a 7k bike). get an upgrade. limited hubs for superboost though and i dont like the idea of hydras which just sound obnoxious for my taste and life stage

lastly, if youve come from 27.5 to 29 ,yes the wheels feel slower because they do not accelerate the same. none of the 300 or 350watt ex pros say this, but to the normal worlders at 200 watts it makes a difference. however if you time yourself you will notice little difference because they are efficient and they retain momentum. (...some consolation for you)... but they dont 'feel' they accelerate the same.

question in return:
im thinking of buying a pro but making wheel changes (the super boost limits choice....)
enduro mag mentioned wheel wander and limited climbing capability.
how do you find climbing VERY steep trails. does the front wheel tend to wander easily or lift, or do you need to scoot forward a lot on the saddle (...the saddle nose in the hole territory?). or did you just slam the saddle all the way forward.
Talking 25, 30 percent plus gradients here, not just normal fire roads.

cheers
flag Denver75
Posted: Mar 7, 2021 at 9:24 Quote
Bummer about the stolen bike, what did you finally end up with? I’ve ridden the Hightower LT and wasn’t as impressed and I was hoping. I went with the Ripmo and LOVE it! However, now I’m torn between jumping over to a SB or a Ripmo v2. I think the DW link design is by far the best platform for a variety of riders. I’m not sure what trail conditions you ride or even how hard you push, but my area is desert square-edged and chunky High Sierras to steep mtn flow trails throughout Tahoe area. If I go with a Switchblade I’d probably swap to a x2 to control a lot of the choppy trails. I just hope that shock doesn’t transform it into a dulled down version of my Ripmo. I’m torn. But watch this is you haven’t!

https://freehubmag.com/reviews/pivot-switchblade-29
flag MBour
Posted: Jul 14, 2021 at 22:16 Quote
notnew wrote:
question in return:
im thinking of buying a pro but making wheel changes (the super boost limits choice....)
enduro mag mentioned wheel wander and limited climbing capability.
how do you find climbing VERY steep trails. does the front wheel tend to wander easily or lift, or do you need to scoot forward a lot on the saddle (...the saddle nose in the hole territory?). or did you just slam the saddle all the way forward.
Talking 25, 30 percent plus gradients here, not just normal fire roads.

cheers

We've got some steep climbs here, and I keep my saddle pushed forward (not 'slammed', but it's up to the limit line on the rails). I do have to scoot forward on the seat but not into "buy me drink first" territory. Really, if I have to be more forward than that, I just get out of the saddle entirely. I came from a 130mm trail bike and I think my Switchblade is a better climber, especially over techy/chunky stuff.
flag cayo
O+
Posted: Jul 20, 2021 at 17:22 Quote
Local trails here in eastern Canada are granite slickrock that is super steep in places and had no issues clearing them on my first ride with the SB. Front wheel is light but no feeling off it wandering at all. Tech climbing with Float X shock in firm was awesome even on very rocky or rooty trails and loads of forward movement when putting the power down.

As an XL rider the bike doesn’t feel huge, I am well centred in the bike at 6’2”-6’3” and stable for downs and precise and nimble on the ups.

2022 Bike came with industry nine 101 hubs and ar30 rims. Tires seem slow and overkill for the kind of trails we have here so trying an Bontrager XR4 to replace the DHR2… may put a 2.3 DHF on the front rather than the 2.5 which seems massive.

Thought about the ripmo as well but seems too much bike… overlapped with my SC Nomad a bit and was really long in a XL… So pretty happy for the first few rides.
flag charmingbob
O+ FL
Posted: Sep 23, 2021 at 10:08 Quote
Has anyone tried the Cascade link on their Switchblade?

https://cascadecomponents.bike/collections/pivot-linkages/products/pivot-switchblade-link
flag crmellin
O+
Posted: Feb 18, 2022 at 11:35 Quote
charmingbob wrote:
Has anyone tried the Cascade link on their Switchblade?

https://cascadecomponents.bike/collections/pivot-linkages/products/pivot-switchblade-link

....Anyone?
flag charmingbob
O+ FL
Posted: Feb 18, 2022 at 12:55 Quote
crmellin wrote:
charmingbob wrote:
Has anyone tried the Cascade link on their Switchblade?

https://cascadecomponents.bike/collections/pivot-linkages/products/pivot-switchblade-link

....Anyone?

There has been more discussion about the Cascade link over at mtbr.com:

https://www.mtbr.com/threads/switchblade-v2-pictures-tech-talk.1129313/page-28
flag Evobuild
Posted: Mar 5, 2022 at 15:25 Quote
NorCalNomad wrote:
In my experience there is no better way to make a trail bike seem slow on the up to to have a DHR on the rear

Agreed. An aggressor is way faster even comparing dual compound 3xc max Terra.
flag Pspy3
O+
Posted: Apr 18, 2022 at 21:21 Quote
tkrumroy wrote:
claystanger wrote:
I just got my Pivot Sb v2 and I need some help. I have a handfull of rides on this bike and multiple tinkeings with my setup but I can't get this bike to feel efficient on climbs. Don't get me wrong it climbs fine but I've ridden bigger bikes that climbed faster with the same efforts. I originally purchased this bike because of the fun factor and efficiency rumors. I'm feeling efficient everywhere tell I hit a climb and I lose momentum so fast. I ride with alot of Yeti's sb130s, a yeti 5.5 and a few Santa Cruz ht v2s and we ride each others bikes back to back and we're all feeling the same think loss of momentum early in a fast rolling climb. I really don't want to buy a yeti so I want this bike to work. Is anyone experiencing this or have a few tips to try?

Wild man I don’t know what to tell you. My last bike was a forbidden Druid and then the HTv2 and I feel like this bike climbs way better. I know this may be an insulting question but is the shock sagging too low?
flag Pspy3
O+
Posted: Apr 18, 2022 at 21:33 Quote
I had the same climbing experience . Owning a 2019 Firebird 29 ( that beast can climb , I’ve raced XC with the FB )
First few rides on the Blade I was disappointed too . The SB wouldn’t climb .
Installed a 30T oval Absolute Black chainring like my FB . This seamed to help , also the SB likes to be spun up hills . I carried a higher cadence and bike flowed up hill . I use the shock lockout at times too .
With out a doubt the Firebird was a stiff framed beast . The SB is a close second .
Good luck
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