Sunday World Cup Build

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Sunday World Cup Build
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flag allenrotstein
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 9:31 Quote
oh, i almost forgot:
to keep the bike under 38 or 39 pounds you need some tricks:

1. Ti spring.. f*cking expensive, but sheds 1,5 pounds off right there!
2. After a couple of days adjusting the seat-post height, cut off the excess, you save like 80 or 100 grams right there.
3. Running a 185mm rotor on the back helps a lot too.
4. If you don't feel like running super duper wide bars, get a nice and strong XC carbon bar.. They weight around 180grs.. good stuff, but replace it every year.
5. Carbon MPR, expensive, but reliable, strong and lasts forever.
6. Ti bolts everywhere
7. Roadie saddle.. Selle Italia has a model that tops the scale at 160 grams.. i had this one a long time ago and i lasted for like 2,5 yrs.. Its super expensive tho.
8. double butted spokes like 2.0-1.8 helps to save some grams
9. Skinny tires like 2.3 can shed off LOTS of weight.. If you start to get too many flats, buy this stuff "Stans no flats"

my 2 cents..
Cheers
flag dhtarbo13
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 9:31 Quote
If your getting the sunline stem, you may aswell get the sunline v1 handlebars aswell, there lighter lower and wider than eastons.
I would really recommend a road cassette, they are much better than the mtb cassettes when it comes to downhill.

Get a Gamut P30 chain device instead of e13 LG1, much easier to set up and lighter, get the gamut chainring aswell its amazingly lightweight.

Mavic 721 or 823 wheels on Hope Pro 2 Hubs, probably the best wheels you can build in terms of strength and weight.

Maxxis Highrollers should do the job for the description of your tracks.
flag dhtarbo13
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 9:34 Quote
NO point goin that fussy with levers its really only going to save a few grams. Id get mavic over ringle anyday therelighter!
flag awais
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 9:36 Quote
allenrotstein wrote:
oh, i almost forgot:
to keep the bike under 38 or 39 pounds you need some tricks:

1. Ti spring.. f*cking expensive, but sheds 1,5 pounds off right there!
2. After a couple of days adjusting the seat-post height, cut off the excess, you save like 80 or 100 grams right there.
3. Running a 185mm rotor on the back helps a lot too.
4. If you don't feel like running super duper wide bars, get a nice and strong XC carbon bar.. They weight around 180grs.. good stuff, but replace it every year.
5. Carbon MPR, expensive, but reliable, strong and lasts forever.
6. Ti bolts everywhere
7. Roadie saddle.. Selle Italia has a model that tops the scale at 160 grams.. i had this one a long time ago and i lasted for like 2,5 yrs.. Its super expensive tho.
8. double butted spokes like 2.0-1.8 helps to save some grams
9. Skinny tires like 2.3 can shed off LOTS of weight.. If you start to get too many flats, buy this stuff "Stans no flats"

my 2 cents..
Cheers


oooo ti bolts thats sweet!!
where could i get thoes?
i wanted to stay with my monkey lights cause i like them. i dont want bars that are too big. these ones are sick and light. are their diffrent brand of ti springs? do they ride diffrent? what about a fox dhx 5.0 air?
flag bailey262
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 9:45 Quote
awais wrote:
wtt-tmr wrote:
awais wrote:
Here is my build for 09 season. ive already got a few parts. Bars and Shifter. Let me know if i can improve on anything. I would like to keep it under 38 pounds. if thats possible. thanks guys. take a look!

Frame: 2008 Iron Horse Sunday World Cup
Fork: Boxxer World Cup Black Lowers With Green Stickers
Seat Post: Thomson Elite SDG I beam
Shifter: SRAM X-0
Derailleur: SRAM X-O
Brakes: Elixir CR with carbon blades
Cranks: Saints maybe gravity light
Pedals: 5050XX
Wheels: DT Swiss FR 2350 823 or 729 on pro II or dt hub and all tubeless
Stem: Sunline Direct Mount Stem
Bars: Easton Monkey Light DH
Grips: Sunline Lock-On
Seat: WTB Silverado SDG i-fly or formula
Chain Guide: Gamut
Cassette: pg-970 roadie cassette
Tire: ???? maxxis UST depending on your conditions
Chain: ????shimano hg chain with sram power link
Shock: CCDB or vivid 5.1
heres the stuff i would get
sorry it comes with a vivid 5.1 the elixirs come with the carbon blades. hmm a roadie cassette, wont that break?
no i have a pg970 and its a 23-11 its not a road cassette its actually a pg970 dh. but its just as light as a road cassette
flag stryke
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 9:54 Quote
allenrotstein wrote:
oh, i almost forgot:
to keep the bike under 38 or 39 pounds you need some tricks:

1. Ti spring.. f*cking expensive, but sheds 1,5 pounds off right there!
2. After a couple of days adjusting the seat-post height, cut off the excess, you save like 80 or 100 grams right there.
3. Running a 185mm rotor on the back helps a lot too.
4. If you don't feel like running super duper wide bars, get a nice and strong XC carbon bar.. They weight around 180grs.. good stuff, but replace it every year.
5. Carbon MPR, expensive, but reliable, strong and lasts forever.
6. Ti bolts everywhere
7. Roadie saddle.. Selle Italia has a model that tops the scale at 160 grams.. i had this one a long time ago and i lasted for like 2,5 yrs.. Its super expensive tho.
8. double butted spokes like 2.0-1.8 helps to save some grams
9. Skinny tires like 2.3 can shed off LOTS of weight.. If you start to get too many flats, buy this stuff "Stans no flats"

my 2 cents..
Cheers

1. ...lol maybe on some spring weights, on average you dont save THAT much
2. 80 to 100grams for cutting your post a bit? err some mis calculation there i think
3. not that much, not worth cooking your brake over
4. lol you cant be serious, xc carbon bar for dh riding? good luck with that sir
5. err, im pretty sure the new lg1/srs+ from e.thirteen would be lighter and cooler, and stronger
6. acceptable but pretty stupid when the frame is already rather heavy
7. Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i41.tinypic.com/2u9lq8y.jpg roadie seats/xc seats come with a consquence sometimes, 135g of selle italia
8. eh that would work
9. you hardly save much weight going from 2.5 to 2.3, yet you loose stabilty when youre really pushing into the corners

--

the build you have is pretty solid, not too heavy and will last a season no problems

personally id go x.9 instead of x.0 as there is no noticable difference yet you save alot of money, and you only gain 20-30grams

id put sunline v1 bars instead of easton, but thats only so the stem/bars would match, heh

tires, i run minions dhf front and rear in dusty conditions and love them, 2.5, 42a in the front and 60a in the back to get some rad drifits going

i just run whatever chain i can get my hands on as ive never noticed a difference when ive bought an expensive chain
flag awais
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 10:05 Quote
stryke wrote:
allenrotstein wrote:
oh, i almost forgot:
to keep the bike under 38 or 39 pounds you need some tricks:

1. Ti spring.. f*cking expensive, but sheds 1,5 pounds off right there!
2. After a couple of days adjusting the seat-post height, cut off the excess, you save like 80 or 100 grams right there.
3. Running a 185mm rotor on the back helps a lot too.
4. If you don't feel like running super duper wide bars, get a nice and strong XC carbon bar.. They weight around 180grs.. good stuff, but replace it every year.
5. Carbon MPR, expensive, but reliable, strong and lasts forever.
6. Ti bolts everywhere
7. Roadie saddle.. Selle Italia has a model that tops the scale at 160 grams.. i had this one a long time ago and i lasted for like 2,5 yrs.. Its super expensive tho.
8. double butted spokes like 2.0-1.8 helps to save some grams
9. Skinny tires like 2.3 can shed off LOTS of weight.. If you start to get too many flats, buy this stuff "Stans no flats"

my 2 cents..
Cheers

1. ...lol maybe on some spring weights, on average you dont save THAT much
2. 80 to 100grams for cutting your post a bit? err some mis calculation there i think
3. not that much, not worth cooking your brake over
4. lol you cant be serious, xc carbon bar for dh riding? good luck with that sir
5. err, im pretty sure the new lg1/srs+ from e.thirteen would be lighter and cooler, and stronger
6. acceptable but pretty stupid when the frame is already rather heavy
7. Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i41.tinypic.com/2u9lq8y.jpg roadie seats/xc seats come with a consquence sometimes, 135g of selle italia
8. eh that would work
9. you hardly save much weight going from 2.5 to 2.3, yet you loose stabilty when youre really pushing into the corners

--

the build you have is pretty solid, not too heavy and will last a season no problems

personally id go x.9 instead of x.0 as there is no noticable difference yet you save alot of money, and you only gain 20-30grams

id put sunline v1 bars instead of easton, but thats only so the stem/bars would match, heh

tires, i run minions dhf front and rear in dusty conditions and love them, 2.5, 42a in the front and 60a in the back to get some rad drifits going

i just run whatever chain i can get my hands on as ive never noticed a difference when ive bought an expensive chain

oh man that seats pretty f*cked. lol i am getting x-0 cause im getting a deal from my friend. 80$ for a brand new still in box sram x-0 rar deraillure short cage. i already ahve the easton bars. i also got for a good price. hmmm.. seat... wtb?
flag g-off7
O+
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 10:19 Quote
most of your build seems pretty solid but ill throw my 2 cents in

stay away from s-types, there heavy and really not that strong
if your smoothe go 721's laced to hope pro 2's front and back
if your not that smoothe get a 729 laced to a pro 2 in the back and a 721 up front.

when yous aid you were getting saint cranks did you mean 08 or 09, if you meant 09 get the 09's.

finally for pedals, make sure there reasonably light and feel comfterable.
just ride with a pair of 5.10 impacts and anythingw ill feel grippy.
but avoid 50/50's there slippery and they break.
straightlines are a good choice, specialized pedals are also really good suprisingly, light, perfect ammount of grip, i cant really ask for more.
flag awais
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 10:26 Quote
g-off7 wrote:
most of your build seems pretty solid but ill throw my 2 cents in

stay away from s-types, there heavy and really not that strong
if your smoothe go 721's laced to hope pro 2's front and back
if your not that smoothe get a 729 laced to a pro 2 in the back and a 721 up front.

when yous aid you were getting saint cranks did you mean 08 or 09, if you meant 09 get the 09's.

finally for pedals, make sure there reasonably light and feel comfterable.
just ride with a pair of 5.10 impacts and anythingw ill feel grippy.
but avoid 50/50's there slippery and they break.
straightlines are a good choice, specialized pedals are also really good suprisingly, light, perfect ammount of grip, i cant really ask for more.
okay, so far i ahve alot of people saying the 729 laced with hopes i think ill do that. i already have the 08 saints. not the 09 i got aa deal from my lbs for them. couldnt resist.ill take a look at the staitline pedals. they look kinda pricey tho.
flag stryke
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 10:45 Quote
straitline pedals are heavy and insanely overhyped

some wellgo mg-1s are lighter and cheaper, or the staccatos from e13 which should be out around sea otter time apparently

if you want a bombproof wheel get a 823 laced to pro2s, 823 rims are so strong its crazy

just run the 08 saints, they're awesome cranks still, a bit heavy but I'll take that bit of extra weight for a completely bombproof crankset
flag awais
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 13:32 Quote
stryke wrote:
straitline pedals are heavy and insanely overhyped

some wellgo mg-1s are lighter and cheaper, or the staccatos from e13 which should be out around sea otter time apparently

if you want a bombproof wheel get a 823 laced to pro2s, 823 rims are so strong its crazy

just run the 08 saints, they're awesome cranks still, a bit heavy but I'll take that bit of extra weight for a completely bombproof crankset

are demon hubs anygood?
flag biscuito
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 13:44 Quote
i've got mavic ex 721's; are lighter than 729's and cheaper. But as your are spending serious cash by the looks of it, i would be tempted by the new deemax's in your position.

pedal wise, have a look at the new deity decoy pedals, nice and light. if not easton flatboys are a fail safe choice.

hub wise, imperial hubs are pretty sweet, bearings and hubs in general last longer than pro 2's according to a couple of mates who have had both. Saying that I hhave no issues with my pro 2

o yer, and my ifly seat has taken some serious punishment with no problems, i would strongly suggest it... ( looks p i m p too)
flag awais
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 13:51 Quote
biscuito wrote:
i've got mavic ex 721's; are lighter than 729's and cheaper. But as your are spending serious cash by the looks of it, i would be tempted by the new deemax's in your position.

pedal wise, have a look at the new deity decoy pedals, nice and light. if not easton flatboys are a fail safe choice.

hub wise, imperial hubs are pretty sweet, bearings and hubs in general last longer than pro 2's according to a couple of mates who have had both. Saying that I hhave no issues with my pro 2

o yer, and my ifly seat has taken some serious punishment with no problems, i would strongly suggest it... ( looks p i m p too)

are the 721 stronger? cause im not your average size person lol

ill take a look a the decoy pedals. i was looking for something with replaceable pinns.

ill take a look at the imperial hubs.
flag biscuito
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 13:56 Quote
so long as you don't try to run your pressures too low, you should get away with 721's; they are very similiar in strength to 729's. Failing that, this years deemax's are light and strong, with improved hub longevity, definately the wheel of the moment in my oppinion.
flag awais
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 at 13:58 Quote
biscuito wrote:
so long as you don't try to run your pressures too low, you should get away with 721's; they are very similiar in strength to 729's. Failing that, this years deemax's are light and strong, with improved hub longevity, definately the wheel of the moment in my oppinion.

how much do the wheelsets go for?

 


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