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My Wheel Building Guide

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My Wheel Building Guide
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flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 4, 2021 at 7:41 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
Depends on a lot of things:

• Rider weight and riding style. Obviously.
• Wheel size. 29ers need slightly more strength.
• Hub flange offset. This is a big factor. The geometry of the front Erase hub is a bit better than average and, most importantly, the geometry of the rear is very good.
• Spoke bed offset in the rim. Also important.
• Rim strength.
• Spoke count. Front wheels are a lot less demanding of the spokes than the rear.

Another thing to consider is where you use the thin spokes. Each side of your wheel has a different flange offset and, therefore, a different strength and stiffness. You can compensate for this by using thicker spoke where there's less offset and thinner spokes where there's more offset. I usually design wheels to use 1.5 mm spokes on the front right and rear left sides, then match the stress on the other side by using about 1.6 mm to 1.8 mm spokes, as determined by the wheel geometry.

What would you recommend in my case?

70kg, advanced riding, a bit aggressive, I am riding Squamish, whistler and north shore.

My bike is a 161 29er, EX511 rims with Erase hubs 32H

I found so many different spokes choices or hubs holes etc but with not much explanation of the choices, it is so hard to make a decision
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 4, 2021 at 13:16 Quote
I'll send you a private message.
flag Darianghodsi
Posted: Jan 11, 2021 at 21:12 Quote
https://youtu.be/Nz0quvyRSnc
flag seraph
Posted: Jan 11, 2021 at 21:27 Quote
Darianghodsi wrote:
https://youtu.be/Nz0quvyRSnc

I've never ridden their wheels but I've built my fair share of their hubs and rims into wheels. No issues. In the video the wheels just seem like they needed to be re-tensioned earlier than they were.
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 11, 2021 at 21:38 Quote
Loosening like that shouldn't happen, but it's not rare. If a wheel is built with initially low tension, the spokes are likely to fully detention while riding, which almost always causes further loosening.

It's likely they can just be brought up to a higher tension by someone familiar with wheel building and that could be the end of the problems. Higher tension - and maybe more uniform tension - from the factory is likely to prevent it from happening in the future.

e*thirteen has a reputation for rushing products to market in a "beta" state with a high rate of problems. They typically support the customers and sort out the issues in a year or two. Not ideal, but it doesn't mean the products are beyond hope.
flag seraph
Posted: Jan 11, 2021 at 22:35 Quote
I've known more than a few people who have made claims about their OEM wheels. Like I said I haven't ridden them personally, only their rims and hubs, built up into wheels myself. That said, their carbon wheels are a good value if you don't get a lemon with the spoke tension I suppose.
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 17, 2021 at 11:42 Quote
Is it possible to use DT rim washers with Sapim polyax nipples?
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 17, 2021 at 15:42 Quote
Looli,

Short answer: I think so.

Long answer: DT PHR washers are intended for the DT Squorx Pro Head nipples, which have a radiused ("ball joint") shape, though I'm not certain whether the washers have a radiused edge. If not, you're definitely good to go, as there would be no matching profile with DT or Sapim nipples. Sapim Polyax nipples also have a radiused profile. Assuming the washers have a radiused profile, the question is whether the washers and the Polyax nipples use the same radius and, if not, whether they're different enough to matter.

Recommendation: Proceed, but inspect the quality of the fit before building the wheels. Use grease between the washer and rim, and the washer and nipple.
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 17, 2021 at 17:03 Quote
I got my DT rims with those washers and the DT Squorx Pro Head nipples. Makes sense thanks.
First I was thinking to use those nipples and washers with sapim d light spoke but I guess it is not recommended to mix or get all sapim but then I need the washers to calculate the spoke lenght lol
The DT washers have a specific shape so not sure if it will fit the sapim nipples
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 17, 2021 at 17:09 Quote
That was my whole point: the washers and Sapim nipples will probably be fine.

Why would you not use the DT nipples and Sapim spokes?
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 17, 2021 at 17:18 Quote
Well I want to, it just that I heard people saying that it is not recommended
I guess as long the tread are same there is no problem right?
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 17, 2021 at 17:35 Quote
Yes. I'm fairly certain they use the same thread pitch. If so, there is absolutely no reason they wouldn't work well together.
flag seraph
Posted: Jan 17, 2021 at 17:58 Quote
Both are precision companies with good threads. Should be fine. I have had problems with Wheelsmith nipples on DT spokes before, due to poorly cut threads.
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 17, 2021 at 18:04 Quote
Thanks, I need 16 291 spokes for my build. Is possible to shorter a sapim d light? 292 is easier to find...
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 17, 2021 at 18:26 Quote
seraph wrote:
I have had problems with Wheelsmith nipples on DT spokes before, due to poorly cut threads.

In which case, you would've had the same problems with Wheelsmith nipples on Wheelsmith spokes!


Looli wrote:
Thanks, I need 16 291 spokes for my build. Is possible to shorter a sapim d light? 292 is easier to find...

Yes, it's almost always fine to get spokes a millimeter longer than the "perfect" length. Too-short spokes are more of a problem than too-long.

 


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