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2016 Stumpjumper

PB Forum :: Specialized
2016 Stumpjumper
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flag bikesatori
Posted: Jul 7, 2015 at 17:29 Quote
^ That's good to hear. Quite a hook up from your rep!
While I have limited ride time on the Enduro, I do feel this Stumpy can handle much more above its weight class, and while hanging it out loose, too!


I just received my new shock yoke replacement bolt kit from my LBS for the service bulletin. Haven't had an issue with my original loosening up yet, but better safe than sorry.
flag jfkusa
O+ FL
Posted: Jul 11, 2015 at 6:54 Quote
Does anybody have the expert model. Can I remove the spider and run a direct mount. Not worried about weight just want an ano red chainring and can't find one in 94mm bcd. If somebody could confirm this that would be awesome
flag Meyercord
Posted: Jul 11, 2015 at 8:26 Quote
I've been running a direct mount wolf tooth 32t since day one.
flag mtbfeva
O+
Posted: Jul 27, 2015 at 17:00 Quote
Demo'ed 29 FSR alloy last weekend. Love it! Agile, a real climber, pushes through rock gardens no problem. Feels like a smaller bike. Demo'ed a 2015 29 Comp 3 weeks ago, absoluently no comparison. The 1/2" shorter chain stays, more slaker rake is noticable impressive improvement. Very fast DH and planted with wider rims / tires. Carbon Comp in-stock now (carbon black with orange rhymes); Expert to arrive mid Sept (carbon front trianlge orange, rear triangle black). Looks like the Trek Remedy 9 650B is going up for sale! Going back and forth on Comp vs Expert. Big $ spread / components.
flag superdoperider
Posted: Jul 28, 2015 at 9:14 Quote
But an Elite and a Carbon comp and swap the parts. Then sell the Elite as an alloy comp and you can save yourself allot of cash.
flag Dan1210
Posted: Jul 28, 2015 at 14:35 Quote
superdoperider wrote:
But an Elite and a Carbon comp and swap the parts. Then sell the Elite as an alloy comp and you can save yourself allot of cash.

In uk pounds
Elite £3500
Carbon comp £3000

Total £6500
Sell elite as alloy comp £2000

Carbon with elite parts cost you £4500 think thats correct, same price as buying the carbon comp outright at least in great britain.
flag superdoperider
Posted: Aug 17, 2015 at 22:02 Quote
I bought my 2016 Stumpjumper Comp 650b on June 12, 2015 at my local bike shop its now Aug 17, 2015. Here's my rundown.
First I need to let you all know I had the fork swapped out before I rode the bike to a 160mm Pike.
Next the first thing to loosen up was the derailer.
Next was the rear shock mount. I posted about this before it was a factory recall, just trying to help out.
Next the rear Hub loosened up, I caught this because the I couldn't tune the shifting to perfection. My local BS had the 19mm and 17mm cone wrenches that I don't currently own to fix it for me. (this is a major re-occurring problem with these roval hubs)
Next I removed my front derailer and added a Hope Silent Guide.
Everything was holding together fine when I noticed I was bottoming out en every jump take-off and landing, so I added more air Im 210 running 230lb's.
Soon I realized on high speed trails I needed to run in the climb setting to keep the bike predictable and avoid getting bucked.
On slow speed single track the damping was good, but on drops and gaps it remained insufficient.
I enjoy how well this bike corners and have no problem keeping inside on corners better than any other bike I've ridden.
Next I tore the side wall on my rear tire, no big deal I was still running tubes and I didn't even notice till I gave it a wash. I bought a Slaughter Control for its replacement.
Next I blew the rebound circuit on the rear Fox Evolution CTD. With it being currently 2 days before my next local race i'll wait to take it for service.
Next the rear main pivot by the cranks has loosened off. I heard a clunking when picking my bike up and it wasn't coming from the normal shock yolk bolt.
Next during today's ride I noticed excessive play in the real wheel, I don't think its from the hub nuts this time so I'll because the only way i can reproduce the sound is with the wheel in the frame.

So two days before my next race and I have a blown rear shock and loose hub on a two month old bike. Hopefully the shop can fix my hub so I can ride.
So to everyone that rides this bike check your bolts no matter how old your bike is and make sure your rear hub isn't the problem with your shifting or the reason your rear QR lever has changed position when tight.
Next don't trust the tires with Control sidewalls tubeless.
That rear shock need a better tune if you ride jumps.
This bike has great geometry to get you around corners but its suspension and wheels build cant support its intentions when you start boosting and putting on the miles.
2 months old and I believe It's "Slapped"
flag Meyercord
Posted: Aug 18, 2015 at 8:40 Quote
You should make sure bolts etc are tight on any bike. The hi lo hubs(not roval as you said) on the comp models are junk, but the rovals/ dt swiss on the higher models are perfectly fine. Maybe replace the evolution shock with the factory float from the elite and higher models or wait until rockshox releases a monarch.
flag superdoperider
Posted: Aug 19, 2015 at 22:00 Quote
Meyercord wrote:
You should make sure bolts etc are tight on any bike. The hi lo hubs(not roval as you said) on the comp models are junk, but the rovals/ dt swiss on the higher models are perfectly fine. Maybe replace the evolution shock with the factory float from the elite and higher models or wait until rockshox releases a monarch.

Why do Specialized spec some of their bikes with hubs that are categorized as junk by many riders? And why have they done so for years?

Why would I have to replace a shock that's brand new and designed and tuned for this new Stumpjumper or as Specialized brand it "Rx recommended experience"
This Rx has only lasted me two months and it was mush from the start. More junk for the buy-sell? These bikes are not easy to find replacement shock's for and very expensive to replace. The reason I got a Comp and not the Elite is because I'm on a budget. Now your telling me and I'm finding out I paid good money for junk? So basically I should have stayed away from Specialized Stumpjumper Comp because the build hub's/wheels and rear shock are
inadequate? If that's true then unless someone has the money for an Stumpjumper Elite they should stay away from these Stumpys.

In my opinion yes checking bolts is an important thing to do but that defective shock bolt can only be checked by removing the whole shock, but this is old news lets move on. That being said they must of had a bad batch of blue loctite at the factory because in just 2 months my main pivot nearly as loose as a moose knuckle.

The great thing about this bike is its compact sizing and stand-over combined with its low and short rear end and ample reach. This combination of traits make for an excellent handing bike that when used properly corners so tightly it feels a bit like cheating especially after coming off a 29 Enduro.

None of my previous bikes have had this many issues in such a sort time and I've just started putting this bike to the test. I feel like they might build these bikes for the average rider and not for more experienced riders are demanding of their equipment and expect it to last. When I sell this one I won't be coming back for a third Specialized MTB.
flag allenjlam
Posted: Aug 20, 2015 at 8:11 Quote
superdoperider wrote:
Meyercord wrote:
You should make sure bolts etc are tight on any bike. The hi lo hubs(not roval as you said) on the comp models are junk, but the rovals/ dt swiss on the higher models are perfectly fine. Maybe replace the evolution shock with the factory float from the elite and higher models or wait until rockshox releases a monarch.

Why do Specialized spec some of their bikes with hubs that are categorized as junk by many riders? And why have they done so for years?

Why would I have to replace a shock that's brand new and designed and tuned for this new Stumpjumper or as Specialized brand it "Rx recommended experience"
This Rx has only lasted me two months and it was mush from the start. More junk for the buy-sell? These bikes are not easy to find replacement shock's for and very expensive to replace. The reason I got a Comp and not the Elite is because I'm on a budget. Now your telling me and I'm finding out I paid good money for junk? So basically I should have stayed away from Specialized Stumpjumper Comp because the build hub's/wheels and rear shock are
inadequate? If that's true then unless someone has the money for an Stumpjumper Elite they should stay away from these Stumpys.

In my opinion yes checking bolts is an important thing to do but that defective shock bolt can only be checked by removing the whole shock, but this is old news lets move on. That being said they must of had a bad batch of blue loctite at the factory because in just 2 months my main pivot nearly as loose as a moose knuckle.

The great thing about this bike is its compact sizing and stand-over combined with its low and short rear end and ample reach. This combination of traits make for an excellent handing bike that when used properly corners so tightly it feels a bit like cheating especially after coming off a 29 Enduro.

None of my previous bikes have had this many issues in such a sort time and I've just started putting this bike to the test. I feel like they might build these bikes for the average rider and not for more experienced riders are demanding of their equipment and expect it to last. When I sell this one I won't be coming back for a third Specialized MTB.

I mean, sometimes shit happens man. Judging by your post, the only real problems you had was a shock and a hub that need to be warrantied. There's nothing wrong with evolution series shocks or HiLo hubs, but it's a you get what you pay for kind of thing. Honestly, if you're not breaking shit, you're not riding hard enough.
flag jfkusa
O+ FL
Posted: Aug 20, 2015 at 9:03 Quote
Should I go for the stumpy 29 expert, which is a stretch financially or a camber 650b comp carbon. I ride pretty tight single track with no real climbs. That's Minnesota for you. I think the camber comp would be nice because I might have enough left over to get a fuze as well. I will be coming off a 2012 Santa Cruz blur xc. Thoughts?
flag Meyercord
Posted: Aug 20, 2015 at 10:19 Quote
The only person I know that's ridden the new camber didn't like it at all.
flag superdoperider
Posted: Aug 22, 2015 at 16:57 Quote
allenjlam wrote:
I mean, sometimes shit happens man. Judging by your post, the only real problems you had was a shock and a hub that need to be warrantied. There's nothing wrong with evolution series shocks or HiLo hubs, but it's a you get what you pay for kind of thing. Honestly, if you're not breaking shit, you're not riding hard enough.
Your comment is refreshing and truthful Allen. But this year I also owned a Fox Evolution CTD shock on a 2015 Enduro 29 Comp that needed a rebuild after 3 weeks. It work well after the rebuild but I believe there's a problem with the leverage that Specialized thinks these shocks can withstand.
I'm not here to prove I can break stuff, but when I do I know that another 10,000+ owners of Specialized Stumpjumpers are right behind me about to break the same stuff as me. I just want people to know what to expect and what to lookout for.
flag useport80
O+
Posted: Aug 25, 2015 at 20:02 Quote
superdoperider wrote:
I bought my 2016 Stumpjumper Comp 650b on June 12, 2015 at my local bike shop its now Aug 17, 2015. Here's my rundown.
First I need to let you all know I had the fork swapped out before I rode the bike to a 160mm Pike.
Next the first thing to loosen up was the derailer.
Next was the rear shock mount. I posted about this before it was a factory recall, just trying to help out.
Next the rear Hub loosened up, I caught this because the I couldn't tune the shifting to perfection. My local BS had the 19mm and 17mm cone wrenches that I don't currently own to fix it for me. (this is a major re-occurring problem with these roval hubs)
Next I removed my front derailer and added a Hope Silent Guide.
Everything was holding together fine when I noticed I was bottoming out en every jump take-off and landing, so I added more air Im 210 running 230lb's.
Soon I realized on high speed trails I needed to run in the climb setting to keep the bike predictable and avoid getting bucked.
On slow speed single track the damping was good, but on drops and gaps it remained insufficient.
I enjoy how well this bike corners and have no problem keeping inside on corners better than any other bike I've ridden.
Next I tore the side wall on my rear tire, no big deal I was still running tubes and I didn't even notice till I gave it a wash. I bought a Slaughter Control for its replacement.
Next I blew the rebound circuit on the rear Fox Evolution CTD. With it being currently 2 days before my next local race i'll wait to take it for service.
Next the rear main pivot by the cranks has loosened off. I heard a clunking when picking my bike up and it wasn't coming from the normal shock yolk bolt.
Next during today's ride I noticed excessive play in the real wheel, I don't think its from the hub nuts this time so I'll because the only way i can reproduce the sound is with the wheel in the frame.

So two days before my next race and I have a blown rear shock and loose hub on a two month old bike. Hopefully the shop can fix my hub so I can ride.
So to everyone that rides this bike check your bolts no matter how old your bike is and make sure your rear hub isn't the problem with your shifting or the reason your rear QR lever has changed position when tight.
Next don't trust the tires with Control sidewalls tubeless.
That rear shock need a better tune if you ride jumps.
This bike has great geometry to get you around corners but its suspension and wheels build cant support its intentions when you start boosting and putting on the miles.
2 months old and I believe It's "Slapped"

i have a 2016 stumpy expert and im having an issue with my hub as well. i created a post on the mtbr forums(http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/squeaky-drivetrain-mystery-984082.html#post12160074)

but it seems like a hub issue according to my lbs. specialized cust support said there was a part change with the hubs recently, so hopefully i get the new one and it resolves my noise issue.
flag Meyercord
Posted: Aug 26, 2015 at 22:02 Quote
The only drivetrain squeak I've had came from the Xd driver body and has since been replaced under warranty.

 


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