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flag joose
Posted: Apr 29, 2016 at 7:34 Quote
keep posting that kinda stuff Mad, i can see how it can pertain to this crowd, never know what kind of cycle someone will have to build one day.
flag topsedit
Posted: Apr 30, 2016 at 2:18 Quote
Great post mad ^^


Keep this up! Superb thread this, makes me wanna get tooled up again!
flag Compositepro
Posted: May 1, 2016 at 9:11 Quote
alted wrote:
l-plates wrote:
Welding/material question for the more experienced on here.

I span up the pivots etc over last weekend using some steel left over from another job, I am now told it is not suitable for welding due to the sulphur content being 0.2-0.3%

I have used it for the pivot stubs and the bearing housings for the swing arm, both pretty critical areas should the welds crack.

The steel I used was non-leaded EN1a (a free cutting mild also known as 230M07) and was machined down to a 2mm thickness where it meets the tubes.

I don't really want to spend another weekend re-machining these bits in EN3 as I want to spend this long weekend completing the frame. Ordering more steel would stop play completely and probably mean I can't get the frame sorted for the 15th when I was planing to test it out.

Question is, has anyone got experience with welding EN1a? Are the internet stories of solidification cracking massively over blown?

If not the other option is to weld a band around the stubs to double the weld area and create a fail safe condition where a cracked weld would only result in a loose stub and a controlled stop rather than a sudden failure.

Do you have any more of the EN1a that you could do a trial with. I would say as soon as you have finished welded it you will know if its any good. A lot of hydraulic fittings are made with free cutting materials to speed up machining times and formability and are a mongrel to weld. Burn up some trial bits and give them a whack with a hammer.

No its just basically crap steel used for making general parts ,very little strength EN3 is not a great improvement and also machines like shit

grades i go for in the abscence of materials like m52 or l52

EN14 this is general purpose
en16t
en19t
en24 this is when its really a lightweight thing that your going to try and break shit

use a stainless 312 rod you might get away with it use a a15 rod and you wont get away with it mig welding en1 like they would on iron 5 bar gates you arent going to have trouble (your not building a gat though)

make sure however 230M07 Pb wasnt that one you were given this is the super easy to thread and machine version with added lead same as 303 st st has sulphur , if its leaded i wouldnt risk it

I will be honest i weld a lot of EN24 parts into frames and they pass CEN with no problems and suffer no adverse effects with High strength low alloy tubes or 25 cro mo 4, according to the world wide web thats bad voodoo too till you look at the carbon content and your filler rod

If your making one off braze it in as a quick get out , if you have brazing of course
flag Compositepro
Posted: May 1, 2016 at 9:19 Quote
photo
madm3chanic wrote:
so this week i started my two most ambitious projects iv ever been involved in- i made most of the jigs i need to build the Handbikes for a company called Advantage here in WA, and started building my monster electric deathbike, at long last! to be honest im not sure if either is really suitable for this forum (one is an electric dirt bike, the other a hand bike for paraplegic riders, not really bicycles per se)

hows this for a set of dropouts- made them this morning

Descendence deathmachine prototype dropouts
Descendence deathmachine prototype dropouts
Descendence deathmachine prototype dropouts

they are 12mm bolt-thru's, the little chip in the middle comes out and splines into the teeth to hold the wheel in place without chain tugs. they have no disc mount tabs because this thing is gonna have a full floating brake setup mounted on a separate plate pivoting around the axle.

and just thought id share one of the jigs i made for the handbikes- (i say "jigs" because i have five separate jigs to make these things, they are super complex compared to bicycles)

Handbike jig 1

its a funny looking thing, but all the same principals apply to it as to a bike jig. this is definitely the fanciest jig iv made so far Smile deosnt really apply to bicycle building, but its kinda related so im rolling with it Smile

https://www.facebook.com/The-first-Off-road-Handcycle-to-be-made-in-Australia-135751383448566/?fref=nf

this is Dan's facebook page for the handbikes, in case anyone is interested. he's got some nasty post-crash pics (he was a state level mountainbiker before his accident) and a little back story about how he became a paraplegic and his quest now to build handbikes for riders like him in australia. its actually a really cool thing to be involved with Smile


I just started making these things here in britain, far more fascinating than good ol bicycles....or maybe its just a different fabrication challenge

photo
photo
photo

photo

https://www.instagram.com/mmc_engineer/

or

https://www.instagram.com/bicyclemanufacturing/
flag Thepureface
Posted: May 1, 2016 at 11:59 Quote
I've always wanted to try one of those hand bikes. I seen a guy ripping A-line on one, and yes he was clearing the tables!

Keep posting pics of them tup
flag topsedit
Posted: May 1, 2016 at 13:12 Quote
Compositepro, thank you

Everyone else too! Good stuff gents, damn good
flag madm3chanic
Posted: May 1, 2016 at 16:45 Quote
@compositepro- thats awesome. got any finished pics of what its gonna look like?

looks tough, thats big tubing you're using.
flag l-plates
Posted: May 3, 2016 at 3:21 Quote
As everyone else said, thanks Compositepro.

Confirms what I though, I don't actually need high strength in these as they are nearly 50% bigger and 50% thicker than the tubes they connect to due to bearing size and needing to press bearings in/out, going to thin was off the cards anyway I don't fancy pressing bearings into anything thinner than 2mm wall without fixtures.
The other bits are just stubs for the axle to pass through, they work with similar design in aluminium so on that basis anything stronger than playdoh would work. lol
If I had needed some strength over the approx 430N/mm^2 of the EN3 I would have used some of the EN8 or 16 I have left from another job.

I can confirm the stuff welds like c**p, even using them as place holders and just tacking them so I could carry on with the rear end tubes it would flash/flare and go sooty.

I have some EN3 and some 43a on the way, the 43a might be a good plan as it is a mild steel with manganese, closer to the composition of the T45 than some of the other options. Carbon content is close, silicon similar and the manganese content is identical, it just lacks the chrome and moly that the T45 has.

For the sake of a few hours machining I'm going to remake these bits and it serves as a pretty good lesson for others to check the composition of the materials your using carefully, EN1a is not basic mild, EN3 is. Facepalm

Also it's really good to see the hand bike stuff, ideas for jigs and design features carry over and personally I think the innovation in the bike industry is limited because no one ever looks outside the field.

I got quite a bit done over the weekend, made up the little trellis section for the rear end and chopped up 3 of 4 stays, need to get a bit more tube from the bike academy tonight to finish them off.

Put a place holder in so I could hang a few components off the thing and see how it all sits. Happy with it so far.

Next jobs, RH chain stay, make the dropouts double shear, re-machine the pivot bits and then some alignment checks before proper welds go on.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t157/ka_screech/Prototype%20434/20160501_214218_zpspaqyuii4.jpgUnsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t157/ka_screech/Prototype%20434/20160502_200151_zpsb2lkldtp.jpgUnsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t157/ka_screech/Prototype%20434/20160502_200246_zps4y9jaevf.jpg
flag petehaddock
Posted: May 4, 2016 at 2:33 Quote
[Quote="l-plates"]Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t157/ka_screech/Prototype%20434/20160502_200151_zpsb2lkldtp.jpg
I like the adjustable geometry via the movable upper shock mount. lol but seriously though good work, it looks great.
flag cemi
Posted: May 5, 2016 at 14:57 Quote
Second frame almost done:

photo
flag TheUnknownMTBR
Posted: May 5, 2016 at 15:13 Quote
maybe make the next one a little bit bigger?
flag alted
Posted: May 5, 2016 at 21:09 Quote
cemi wrote:
Second frame almost done:

photo

Nice bike mate. Good work!
flag madm3chanic
Posted: May 6, 2016 at 6:52 Quote
downtube bellypan of the new ebike all finished and welded up

bellypan/downtube of the 12kw ebike all welded up Smile god damn i cant wait to try this thing out...

i did double fillets on the joints between the downtube ant the bellypan square tube, in case anyone is wondering why they look knda beefy. not entirely sure if it was necessary but what the hell, it looks nice.
flag cemi
Posted: May 7, 2016 at 13:26 Quote
Some paint and first proper ride... This is fun to ride! 66deg/75deg/0mm/410mm/630mm(465mm)/100mm...

photo
flag sterlingmagnum
Posted: May 7, 2016 at 15:31 Quote
cemi wrote:
Some paint and first proper ride... This is fun to ride! 66deg/75deg/0mm/410mm/630mm(465mm)/100mm...

photo


Rad

 


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