You could be right but, i've seen lots of people have loose pivot points, etc etc that just need tightened or greased that they only notice creaking with the brakes locked up. Just throwing out an option to check for. If your caliper bolts and rotor bolts are all tight its probably not the brakes creaking.
While I worked at a shop for a while, I had one guy come in with creaking brakes. It turned out his head set was slightly loose and rocking the bike with the brakes locked up caused it to creak. It was so weird, because you couldn't tell for sure where the sound was coming from. Tightening the headset stopped the sound.
ive only changed to codes from juicys in the last few weeks and wasnt doing it on the old brakes,thats why im sure its the brake,see what your saying though mate
Could be bad rotor or pads. Your rotor may also be contaminated very slightly, I have had this problem before with other brakes.
i have took the rotor and pads off,cleaned and used fine sand paper on the rotors to scrub them up,could just be one of those things that will never go away lol
ive only changed to codes from juicys in the last few weeks and wasnt doing it on the old brakes,thats why im sure its the brake,see what your saying though mate
Could be bad rotor or pads. Your rotor may also be contaminated very slightly, I have had this problem before with other brakes.
i have took the rotor and pads off,cleaned and used fine sand paper on the rotors to scrub them up,could just be one of those things that will never go away lol
Nah, there is something to fix. Check you whole bike, it might just be coincidence that the creak happened when you got the codes.
Could be bad rotor or pads. Your rotor may also be contaminated very slightly, I have had this problem before with other brakes.
i have took the rotor and pads off,cleaned and used fine sand paper on the rotors to scrub them up,could just be one of those things that will never go away lol
Nah, there is something to fix. Check you whole bike, it might just be coincidence that the creak happened when you got the codes.
Does anyone know what the stroke is on the stock VectorR rear shock on the 2011 BigHit I?
I want to run the new vivid air and need to know what tune.
Thx!
8.5x2.5"
so 2.5" stroke. That has nothing to do with the tune though.
The X-Fusion actually has a 2.25" stroke on the 2010 Bighit. 2.25" is an unusual stroke length. Specialized told me that changing the shock would probably mess up the geometry because most 8.5" shocks have a 2.5" stroke. I would love to hear from anyone that has replaced the X-fusion shock on a 2010 Bighit.
From my experience here is what I think about rear rotor size:
1. If you are a big guy/gal or you ride long (+10min) steep alpine downhills then run a 200mm rotor in the rear. OR If you have a rear saint brake (2009 onwards) then you can get away with 180mm with the above conditions.
For everything else run a 180mm rotor or a 160mm IF you run a rear saint.
Saint brakes are really powerful so you can get away with smaller rotors, you could probably get away with a front 180mm for normal DH though you'd probably need an adaptor since most post mount forks mount directly to 200mm discs. I run a 200 front with a saint and 180mm with a juicy and would have gotten a front 220mm and rear 200mm if I had found one last summer but I live in the french alpes and doing a season in Les Deux Alpes really tests your brakes.
Moving to Châtel this summer so my current setup should work just fine since the gradient isn't as extreme.