Mondraker Summum

PB Forum :: Downhill
Mondraker Summum
Author Message
flag jharrisonvirgo
Posted: May 20, 2015 at 2:17 Quote
downhere67 wrote:
Bromaphobe wrote:
downhere67 wrote:
what wheels are those?

dave

Stock 2015 ones, just going to run into the ground

looks sweet. I am just getting a set built using my old hope hubs. It is
hard to find a 27.5 rim over here that is just for dh. Same with wheel sets.
My options were spank, dt and easton. That is it.

dave

When I decide to get rid of mine I'm definitely going with Easton Havoc's, the only Issue is the amount of maintenance for the freehub body (In wet climates they clog up)
flag jharrisonvirgo
Posted: May 20, 2015 at 9:31 Quote
My Summum is 5 rides old and has play in a frame pivot... TIME FOR SOME WARRANTY
flag downhere67
Posted: May 20, 2015 at 9:56 Quote
Bromaphobe wrote:
My Summum is 5 rides old and has play in a frame pivot... TIME FOR SOME WARRANTY

take out the bolts and blue lock tite them.

When I changed my rear spring I did that to ever bolt, and I have never had an issue.

dave
flag jharrisonvirgo
Posted: May 20, 2015 at 10:40 Quote
I'll have a go next time I'm in the workshop with nothing to do.. Shouldn't have to do that since I've not taken the pivot bolts out? Or do they not come lock-tited?
flag downhere67
Posted: May 20, 2015 at 14:45 Quote
Bromaphobe wrote:
I'll have a go next time I'm in the workshop with nothing to do.. Shouldn't have to do that since I've not taken the pivot bolts out? Or do they not come lock-tited?

Most manufactures do not locktite their stuff. All my santa cruz bikes have be awful for that. I have read reviews that Mondraker's come loose pretty easy so I just did it last spring when I got the frame.
flag Chris2fur
Posted: May 20, 2015 at 22:21 Quote
2010-2012 Summum Rear Shock Needle Bearing Kit Completed:
http://enduroforkseals.com/id478.html

The 10mm factory hardware for the 2010-2012 models presented a bit of a challenge, but the new kit replaces the factory hardware. Since there is rotation taking place inside of both shock eyelets, it is recommended that two kits be used per frame.

The 2013 and later models have integrated cartridge bearings into the rocker arms and lower link so no needle bearing conversion is required.
flag zixs
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 13:56 Quote
Can you share wih me how many spacer height do you run underneath the upper crown and what is your height? I am trying to figure out the correct front height setup for me.
flag staike
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 15:32 Quote
The amount of spacers doesnt tell much about the height on its own.. the rise on the stem and bars affect it as well. Front setuo is highly individual as well.. i've seen short people who prefer a high front end, tall people who prefer a low front and vice versa. For the record though I prefer 10 mm spacer under the stem and 1" rise bars. I'm 5'9"/175 cm
flag zixs
Posted: May 25, 2015 at 2:05 Quote
I am running 30mm of spacers under the crown and flat bars. I think that it is a bit too high for me and should cut the steerer tube in order to make it lower because the stem is hitting the steerer tube right now( straitline 28mm stem). I am 173cm. I have the feeling now that my hands could not bend enough if i get the comfortable natural body position on flat ground when the body weight is placed on feet. So now if i want to bunny hop i must lean too much backwards in order to pull up the front easier..
flag chew22
Posted: Jun 6, 2015 at 9:18 Quote
Hey guys,


I'm having issues with incredibly loud brakes and damage to my callipers.

I've a 2nd (probably 5th) hand 2010 summum with Saint brakes.

Although the brakes stopping power is great, they squeal like a pig. I've tried different pads, and rotors, but they all squeal.

I'm trying to work out if I'm meant to use washers to space the brake mount away from the frame, as this was the case when I bought it, but other summum owners in the bike park have their mounts flush against the frame holes. If I have mine flush then the calliper doesn't align properly.

photo

As you can see, there is space between the mount and the frame. If I tighten close to the frame, the brakes partly lock on.


The main issue I'm having, is that the mondraker specific brake mounts don't having a very big surface area and dig into my saints and mush up the metal when tightening. Then then makes it impossible to correctly align the calliper to the disk. Are there meant to be washers between the calliper and the brake mount, as this isn't the case with Saints usually.

photo

photo

This digs into my calliper and damages the metal
flag staike
Posted: Jun 6, 2015 at 13:48 Quote
Just try with some washers between both adapter/frame and caliper/adapter then???? I've had to do that on several bikes because of alignment issues so don't be worried.
flag Chuvak
Posted: Jun 7, 2015 at 3:26 Quote
As for me, I have to use one washer between calliper and adapter from the side that is most far from the bar (closest to rear axle). If I remove it, rotor starts grinding the calliper.
flag qwertzui
Posted: Jun 8, 2015 at 5:01 Quote
Hey,
does someone know the the damper bushes measures for a ccdb ?
My Fox Rc2 bursted yesterday and i want to try the Cane Creek.

cheers

photo
flag Chuvak
Posted: Jun 8, 2015 at 7:33 Quote
Using 2014 ccdb coil now. Absolutely same bushing and hardware mount sizes. Early ccdb (till 2012 as far as i remember) have bigger bushes. Not recommended for purchasing, look for 2013+

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv42 0.021942
Mobile Version of Website