Whilst I’m here, does anybody have any real rider feedback from a reactor? Thinking it may be better suited for me. I ride locally round Surrey hills etc but spend a few weeks of the year in Scotland, Wales BPW and am pretty aggressive. Do you think the reactor will hold up to that?
Hey people... Has any of you painted their Mega some custom colour? I am thinking of painting mine! Could you post some pictures of your custom painted bikes?
That's my powder coated Mega 275 2018 Custom
Made by a company in Germany.
New: Oneup Components 210 Dropper with Bikeyoke remote.
Hey people... Has any of you painted their Mega some custom colour? I am thinking of painting mine! Could you post some pictures of your custom painted bikes?
That's my custom powder coated Mega 275 2018 Custom
Made by a company in Germany.
New: Oneup Components 210 Dropper with Bikeyoke remote.
Have any of you Mega 275 guys tried a 29/27.5 mullet set up ?
Working on it right now. Going with the longer stroke metric shock, and a 180 fork, and I figure the small rear wheel should mostly correct the bb height while slacking the bike out a bit.
Have any of you Mega 275 guys tried a 29/27.5 mullet set up ?
Working on it right now. Going with the longer stroke metric shock, and a 180 fork, and I figure the small rear wheel should mostly correct the bb height while slacking the bike out a bit.
Interested to see how that goes
Can’t figure these numbers out but thinking of swapping my 170mm 27.5 fork for 160mm 29er, shouldn’t lift front too much should it?
Can’t figure these numbers out but thinking of swapping my 170mm 27.5 fork for 160mm 29er, shouldn’t lift front too much should it?
I’m pretty sure the radius of a 29er tire is about 20mm more that 650b, so with a 10mm shorter fork you would be halfway to correcting stock geometry. You could dig into axle-to-crown lengths for the fork you buy to maybe find one slightly shorter, but that 10mm is only going to slacken the bike by about a half degree, and will have minimal effect on bb height and reach.
Can’t figure these numbers out but thinking of swapping my 170mm 27.5 fork for 160mm 29er, shouldn’t lift front too much should it?
I’m pretty sure the radius of a 29er tire is about 20mm more that 650b, so with a 10mm shorter fork you would be halfway to correcting stock geometry. You could dig into axle-to-crown lengths for the fork you buy to maybe find one slightly shorter, but that 10mm is only going to slacken the bike by about a half degree, and will have minimal effect on bb height and reach.
Thanks! As for the water bottle I used aircraft sealant (PR 1422) to bond the FidLock mount under the top tube. Basically the same sealant they use to "glue" carbon frames together, Hardens like tire rubber; totally bombproof. The FidLock bottle just fits a ML frame.
Trinimon wrote:
Telebump wrote:
Finished my dream build last winter. The thing runs like a grape ape.
Frame: 2020 Nukeproof Mega 275 ML Forks: RockShox 170mm Ultimate, RC2.1 damper Shock: RockShox Super Deluxe with MegNeg air can Brakes: SRAM Guide RE calipers/Code RSC levers Wheels: Mavic DeeMax Elites Drive Train: SRAM XO1 Eagle Seat post: RockShox 170mm dropper Stem: Deity Copperhead 35mm Pedals: Diety T-Mac Seat post clamp: Deity Dropper system: Wolf Tooth cable Crankset: Desendant DUB boost Toolset: One-Up EDC stem tool; Dakine spare tube/tire tools/Co2 etc downtube bag One-Up chain guide/bash guard Water Bottle setup: custom attached under toptube mounted Fidlock/downtube aux bottle Fidlock mount custom spaced to allow easy removal of tube/tool bag) Seat: Tioga Outland (looks nasty but is actually the comfortable, most absorbent seat out there) Mud Guards: Mucky Nutz Tires: Maxxis Minion DHR 2 rear 2.4/ Maxxis Assegia 2.5 front
https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/18598999/
Damn, that's a sweet looking ride. Congrats. I can see mounting a water bottle can be a bit tricky on the Mega frame.
Can’t figure these numbers out but thinking of swapping my 170mm 27.5 fork for 160mm 29er, shouldn’t lift front too much should it?
I’m pretty sure the radius of a 29er tire is about 20mm more that 650b, so with a 10mm shorter fork you would be halfway to correcting stock geometry. You could dig into axle-to-crown lengths for the fork you buy to maybe find one slightly shorter, but that 10mm is only going to slacken the bike by about a half degree, and will have minimal effect on bb height and reach.
If I'm not mistaken, you win 20 mm from the wheel, and 20 mm on the fork (572 vs 591 for a 27 180 Lyrik vs 29 180), so you have 40 mm to correct, not 20...
Gaining 10 mm on the fork still gives you 30 mm more up front, that's quite a radical change...
I'm studying doing it on my 27 Capra, but it seems too much geometry wise.
You might check out Laura Rossin's Mega Mullet bike. She won the Superenduro series on one. It was featured on Pinkbike's Bike Check. Do a Google image search for Laura Rossin's mullet bike to find the link. In the article it mentions that she added an "angle set" to reduce the head angle back to 64 degree. Looks like she is running 160 travel up front, but the article doesn't specify. Also looks like her fork has a more reduced offset than the Nukeproof's use for their stock Lyriks. And she has her stem pretty slammed, and it still looks like a really tall cockpit.
Yetichon wrote:
pacificnorthwet wrote:
marko369 wrote:
Interested to see how that goes
Can’t figure these numbers out but thinking of swapping my 170mm 27.5 fork for 160mm 29er, shouldn’t lift front too much should it?
I’m pretty sure the radius of a 29er tire is about 20mm more that 650b, so with a 10mm shorter fork you would be halfway to correcting stock geometry. You could dig into axle-to-crown lengths for the fork you buy to maybe find one slightly shorter, but that 10mm is only going to slacken the bike by about a half degree, and will have minimal effect on bb height and reach.
If I'm not mistaken, you win 20 mm from the wheel, and 20 mm on the fork (572 vs 591 for a 27 180 Lyrik vs 29 180), so you have 40 mm to correct, not 20...
Gaining 10 mm on the fork still gives you 30 mm more up front, that's quite a radical change...
I'm studying doing it on my 27 Capra, but it seems too much geometry wise.
If I'm not mistaken, you win 20 mm from the wheel, and 20 mm on the fork (572 vs 591 for a 27 180 Lyrik vs 29 180), so you have 40 mm to correct, not 20...
Gaining 10 mm on the fork still gives you 30 mm more up front, that's quite a radical change...
I'm studying doing it on my 27 Capra, but it seems too much geometry wise.
Thanks for the correction. I hadn't actually looked at the axle to crown lengths, but that makes sense that they would have to add 20 mm to fit the bigger wheel. That 30 mm total change with the 10 mm shorter travel fork would definitely make for a noticeable change to reach, HTA, STA, and BB height.