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Golden , Colorado - 0 Followers
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Selling
Sep 5, 2022 at 18:35
Sep 5, 2022
GT Fury World Cup custom
$2500 USD2015 GT Fury (custom) in excellent, completely refreshed condition. For a used DH you will not find a better condition, better equipped or better riding bike in this price point. I completely tore the bike down and refurbished it for this sale (I'm a mechanic by profession). This is a bike frame that introduced modern geometry (63 degree head angle, high pivot, 1231mm wheelbase and 438mm reach) to the DH world and won World Championships under the Athertons (Gee and Rachel). The frame was sold in this spec unchanged from 2013 until 2017 when in 2017 GT moved away from the ID Drive concept. They have not won a World Cup since. The World Cup in original spec was sold new for approx. $8000.00. It is a bike that is instantly easy to ride, super-durable, and for anyone used to riding enduro bikes in a bike park, you will find yourself going much faster and more comfortably down pretty much anything, especially gnar tech, and going for bigger with new confidence. I love this bike, it is tight and just works, and after test riding a friend's, bought it used so as not to trash my more expensive custom enduro (a formally PNW rider) riding Colorado bike parks. But at over 5'11" the Medium is a size small for me and recently bought a large Nukeproof Dissent 297 with race aspirations to replace it. The ideal rider for this bike is in the 5'8" to 5'10" range. With the additional coils provided in the purchase it can fit riders between 120-180lbs. The bike's overall weight is 38lbs.
Frame: GT Fury World Cup
Frame completely disassembled (Sept, 2022), bearings checked/replaced and reassembled for this sale. Frame is in excellent condition.
NEW!!! additional bearings, pivot bolts and bearing cups, ID link and derailleur hanger included with bike purchase.
Shock: Fox DHX RC4 (one of Fox's best ever coil shocks). Refurbished by Fox factory 2 season's ago.
Coil installed: 450lb.
Additional Coils included with purchase: 350lb and 400lb.
Fork: 2015 RockShox Boxxer Select Coil.
Damper: Charger (200 hr. service/rebuild completed last season 2021).
Coil installed: Soft (yellow).
Additional Coils included with purchase: X-tra soft (silver), Medium (Red), and Firm (Blue).
50 hour oil bath, seals and foam ring completed Sept, 2022.
Crankset: Shimano Saint (165mm).
Chainring: Shimano ZEE 34 tooth.
Additional chainring included with purchase: (new) ZEE 36 tooth
Chainring Guide/Bash-guard/Tensioner: StraightLine Comp. (Blue installed)
Additional with purchase: 32 tooth Blue bash-guard
34 tooth Black bash-guard.
Pedals: Spank "Spike." Pedals are true, pegs fresh, and bearings excellent, but there are some scrape scars.
Derailleur: NEW! Shimano ZEE with custom "cable block" mod installed to mesh with SRAM 9 speed cassette and chain. A very popular mod that works excellent and provides for 9 speed with a short cage rather than the typical 7 speed mid-cage setup DH bikes normally use.
Cassette: Sram 9 spd. Excellent condition
Chain: SRAM 9-10spd. Good condition.
Additional new, same chain included with purchase.
Shifter: Sram X9
Brakes: Mugura MT7 (excellent condition/excellent brakes).
5 sets of new pads, Royal Blood mineral oil, and bleed kit included with purchase.
Rotors: Mugura 203mm
Wheels: DT Swiss FR 1950 classic 27.5". Renown heavy-duty DH spec rims well-known for being bulletproof.
Front: excellent condition. True/never trued.
Rear: good condition/some small dinks. Semi-true (slight wobble)/never trued. SRAM driver.
Tires: Maxxis 2.4.
Front: Assegai: 3C with Double Down casing (like new/one ride).
Tubeless with fresh Stans sealant and rim tape.
Rear: High Roller: 3C with DH casing, (semi-new/5 rides)
Tubeless, CushCore installed, fresh Stan's sealant and rim tape.
Seat: Nukeproof Horizon (new).
Seat Post: Thomson Masterpiece
Seat Post clamp: Nukeproof (blue).
Handlebar: Nukeproof Horizon, 25mm rise, 800mm width (new)
Grips: DeathGip (new)
Stem: Nukeproof (new).
Telebump SteelCityMedia's article
Jul 28, 2020 at 21:46
Jul 28, 2020
Video: Syndicate Pit Gibberish - Why Would You Run a Smaller Rear Rotor?
Okay, so I've read through most of the comments and a lot of folks have this all wrong. I know that is a bold statement but I have the credentials to speak on the topic; for many years I was a successful motorcycle road racer. You can't race a motorcycle well without mastering the art of braking and understanding how they most effectively work.
On motorcycle road race type bikes they use two very large front brake disks and a single small rear disk. Right? But the application reasoning doesn't apply to enduro/downhill mtb. Why? When racing a motorcycle, coming down a straight full throttle you need to dump speed as deep down the straight as possible before being off the brakes to bend the bike into the corner, and you better be full off the front if you bang the bike over into a full lean, lest you tuck the front and low-slide off into the dirt. Race tracks have actual markers painted on the edge of the track to help you gage just when to let off the gas and go full brake, and they have these because you can't visually gage it otherwise (if you are competitive). And if you aren't braking hard enough to float the rear wheel most turns, well, you are going to be passed by everyone. All this braking is accomplished by the front brakes, and they get so hot they glow, necessitating ss braided brake lines to keep the hoses from going mush. If you apply rear brake while the rear wheel is that light or temporarily off the pavement, it will skip all over the place, which is bad. As for engine braking... One of the biggest differences between an expert and a novice road racer is the ability to softly downshift at high revs while pulling on the front brake hard (it is the throttle hand also), blipping the throttle perfectly to match engine rpm each downshift while maintaining a constant hard pull on the brake lever; engine braking is a subtle rather than overtly brutal affair, only somewhat successful at slowing the bike in a measurable way. It is an art. Regardless, the only time you use a rear brake on the track is to drag it in the corner if in too hot to tighten the turn without chopping throttle, which when asking all there is of the tires on edge can upset the suspension otherwise, putting you into the dirt. Oh, and there is one other time a road racer uses the rear; if you run off the track. Grass is slick and front braking in grass will put you on your head when the front tucks under. Been there done that, and it ends ugly. So that all being said...
Another mis-perception I'm seeing cultivated is that a larger diameter rear rotor equates to more braking power. It does not, at least before heat dissipation becomes a factor. The braking power of a brake to disk interface is the size of the contact point. A SRAM Code brake will have the same contact point surface area regardless of disc diameter and therefore the same power regardless. That's just simple physics.
Why use a larger rotor in the rear? Heat dissipation. Plain and simple. As a bike mechanic I can assure that even the best riders go through rear pads faster than front; doubly so. And if you live in an area with long technical descents and have felt the rear go to mush, a larger rear disc will be a key upgrade. I think that is the point the video author is trying to make. As for braking power though, otherwise... There is no point. And you will feel no difference (well maybe mentally). But as for the need to dissipate heat on long downhills look at EWS bikes. Most are running at least 200 mm front and rear. And I would argue that novice riders riding similar trails are actually heating their butt brakes far more than a top pro. We use the fronts as much as we can, but it is the rear doing the constant heavy lifting down the tech stuff. We use the front with more precision. BAM!
Selling
Mar 15, 2020 at 12:52
Mar 15, 2020
RockShox Lyrik/Yari/Pike Charger 2 damper
$50 USDThis is a mildly used (less than 50 hours) RockShox Charger 2 damper kit with 11 click LSC adjustment. This comes out of a 2019 Lyric RC2 275 170mm, but is also a great upgrade for all 2016+ Yari/Pike and Lyric forks. I'm selling because I upgraded to the newer Charger 2.1. PayPal only.
