Nukeproof Owners Club

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Nukeproof Owners Club
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flag michaelbevege
Posted: Nov 16, 2023 at 20:03 Quote
Maybe just bang a few washers under bottle mount to clear cables?

GenesiZ wrote:
RemiG wrote:
Hey all, could any owners of the alloy Mega recommend a bottle cage that fits, please. I've tried a couple now, but the cable routing is so bloody stupid - it's right above the cage mounting bolts and no bottle cage I've tried fits.

Many thanks

Fidlock for the win! 590ml fits perfectly

photo
Mount

photo
Bottle
flag Jprestidge
Posted: Nov 18, 2023 at 14:23 Quote
scz4 wrote:
Jprestidge wrote:
What do you mean when you say rear axle is loose? Is it okay in the hub or in the bearings on the linkage? Either way, those are consumables and not a warranty job.

With the wheel removed, I can "wiggle" the axle a little, can move the cassette back and forward a little too. I checked it was tight, which it is.

Also wonder if there's some movement in the main pivot bearing too, Hope it's still easy enough to by replacement bearings with everything going on.

Bearings are not Nukeproof specific - they’re just a spec of Enduromax bearings which you can buy from many places.

Still not quite sure what you mean , though. If the wheel is removed what’s the axle doing there? If you mean you can feel movement in the whole rear triangle then your main bearings need replacing or they’re loose. Try tightening with a torque wrench to the recommended figures first.
flag chrismtb22
Posted: Nov 19, 2023 at 0:08 Quote
scz4 wrote:

With the wheel removed, I can "wiggle" the axle a little, can move the cassette back and forward a little too. I checked it was tight, which it is.


On hubs with end caps that aren’t threaded, the free hub / cassette can move a bit when the wheel is not fitted. The hub needs to be the frame with thru axle tightened to stop the play.

If there is play when it’s all fitted in the bike then it’s likely you need new bearings - bearings are a consumable part and not warranty.
flag clowz
Posted: Nov 23, 2023 at 0:06 Quote
hi there,

i own a nukeproof reactor 290 c factory in large (2020) and now i changed my damper from an fox dpx2 to an dvo jade x with a 600 lbs coil....
my question is can i also change the hub from 50 to 52,5 without getting trouble on the backwheel or frame? it is just because i have it and more helps more Wink i know that i´m loosing maybe the warranty or whatever but this is ok.

best wishes, clowz
flag wobblegoblin
O+
Posted: Nov 23, 2023 at 12:41 Quote
wobblegoblin wrote:
Broke my seatstay right in front of the brake today on my 2020 Mega 290 alloy… anyone know what warranty times look like to the USA right now???

I just ordered a specialized stumpy Evo alloy frame…I sure hope it gets here before Friday since I’m heading to Southern Utah next weekend!


FYI: Chainreaction is still honoring the warranty for Nukeproof…they are sending me a Gray seatstay to go on my broken black bike.
flag caledonia2k
Posted: Dec 21, 2023 at 2:17 Quote
Morning Nukeproof Owners.
Wonder if you can help me out with an issue.
My nephew has a 2023 Giga 290 and for one reason or another, we've never needed to take the rear wheel out.
The other week, when loading up to go for a days riding, the rear axle would not pull through and come out.

It's been in the bike shop for a while, and they've tried several ways to remove the axle sympathentically to avoid writing off the rear triangle.
Cut to today and it seems to everyone that's tried, that the axle has somehow failed inside the hub.
Axle still spins, the fixed side of the axle has been removed, but we cannot get this out at all.

CRC/Wiggle say the entire bike needs to be returned to them so they can assess whether it's a warranty issue.
But in all honesty - if I'm not replacing a rotor or casette, I couldn't tell you the last time my own rear wheel was removed, so surely it has to be warranty as opposed to (lack of maintenance) as one bod has already tried to claim.

Pics attached.

Any advice? Has anyone had similar?
Thanks,
Iain

Very Stuck Axle

Very Stuck Axle
Very Stuck Axle

Final pic of it in it's natural Habbitat, in happier times Smile

photo
flag GenesiZ
Posted: Dec 21, 2023 at 12:59 Quote
Well, that axle seized in the hub bearings. There's nothing more that it can be.

You have two options without damaging the rear triangle:

Remove the axle from the hub: This involves laying the bike on its left side and spraying penetration oil around the axle on the right side for a couple of days. Then, using a metal hammer and a rod against the axle, try to get it loose. Be cautious as hitting it might deform the end, making it difficult to clear the bearings.

Bore out the left side of the axle: Another option is to bore out the left side of the axle and attempt to bend the triangle in a way that allows you to take the wheel, including the axle, out of the bike. The challenge here is that the axle remains in the hub, but the frame isn't damaged.

After attempting either option, it's crucial to assess the situation, considering the potential for axle deformation and its impact on clearing the bearings.
flag BenLow2019
Posted: Dec 21, 2023 at 14:05 Quote
caledonia2k wrote:
Morning Nukeproof Owners.
Wonder if you can help me out with an issue....

But in all honesty - if I'm not replacing a rotor or casette, I couldn't tell you the last time my own rear wheel was removed, so surely it has to be warranty as opposed to (lack of maintenance) as one bod has already tried to claim.

Any advice? Has anyone had similar?
Thanks,
Iain


Ian, I've never had this happen. I strongly recommend that if you haven't removed your rear wheel then do so today and put a little grease on the axle. Do this for both front and rear.

Removing wheels shouldn't be uncommon. Every time you change tires, conduct a brake bleed, install a tube, replace brake pads, conduct a thorough scrubbing, and to make sure there's a little grease on the axle. etc. are all times that wheels come off.

Hope this helps.
flag iridedj
O+
Posted: Dec 21, 2023 at 18:18 Quote
Not to judge, but you can clearly see quite a bit of rust on the rotor and cassette. I agree with above, soak that bad boy in penetrating oil, reapply as much as you can over a few days and try to tap it out. Is the axle stripped on the side you'd normally pull out?
flag sgm182
O+
Posted: Jan 2, 2024 at 19:44 Quote
Has anyone with a Mega in the USA found the rear brake routing is reversed to what we are used to? I didn't consider cable routing could be reversed since riders in UK run the rear brake on the left side of the handlebar. I'm putting a new set of brakes on and the only way I can get the cable to route through the left side of the head tube is to cross the rear brake cable in the rear and run it through the hole where the drivetrain cable typically is. (See photo). I don't see a way around this, but was curious if anyone ran into this and had a better solve. A little concerned this could effect brake performance. Thanks!

photo
flag GenesiZ
Posted: Jan 3, 2024 at 0:07 Quote
It isn't really tidy, but it's either crossing at the rear like this or less beautiful on the front with a sharp bend. Or place the rear brake on the right side of the handlebar like almost everybody Big Grin
flag BenLow2019
Posted: Jan 3, 2024 at 7:03 Quote
Right brake should be on the rear. I've gotten two Nukeproofs and they both came routed that way as is standard.
flag sgm182
O+
Posted: Jan 3, 2024 at 7:33 Quote
GenesiZ wrote:
It isn't really tidy, but it's either crossing at the rear like this or less beautiful on the front with a sharp bend. Or place the rear brake on the right side of the handlebar like almost everybody Big Grin

Seems like those are the options! Ha, if I swapped them, I'd be head over handlebars first ride. My brain can't handle that Construction

BenLow2019 wrote:
Right brake should be on the rear. I've gotten two Nukeproofs and they both came routed that way as is standard.

Ben - sorry, not clear what you mean. Was your rear brake cable routed as I have it in the photo or on the same side as the rear brake and routing out the right side of the headtube?
flag BenLow2019
Posted: Jan 3, 2024 at 8:11 Quote
sgm182 wrote:
BenLow2019 wrote:
Right brake should be on the rear. I've gotten two Nukeproofs and they both came routed that way as is standard.

Ben - sorry, not clear what you mean. Was your rear brake cable routed as I have it in the photo or on the same side as the rear brake and routing out the right side of the headtube?

My right brake hose runs from the lever into the left side of the head tube to the rear brake.

 


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