Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
Author Message
flag silverfish1974
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 8:44 Quote
Ahh!!..that would make sense. Yeah I currently put 5cc in as per the manual as I'm pretty certain I have the old type original head.

So when/if I update to the new skf seal head I should put 10cc in.

It does have the amount to add printed on the silver bolt under the red rebound knob, it says 10cc on the one in my spares bag....Think the one on my bike says 5cc.

Cheers for clearing that mystery up.
flag dscottycole
O+
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 9:27 Quote
My RockShox Reverb remote actuator or "button" on my handlebar has become really hard to press and it returns to its fully extended position very slowly after pressing it.

To be clear, I am not talking about the seatpost itself. I am talking about the remote control. Everywhere I have looked they only talk about the seat post being slow or hard to press down. I have recently bled the hydraulic line and the seat post itself works like a charm. I have had this seatpost for more than a year and I am sure it wasn't like this before.

Thanks for your help,
Dan
flag Scotj009
O+
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 9:31 Quote
I don't know the exact fix for this, although if you take it too your lbs sram will more than likely give you a new lever!
flag oldmanDan
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 11:04 Quote
dscottycole wrote:
My RockShox Reverb remote actuator or "button" on my handlebar has become really hard to press and it returns to its fully extended position very slowly after pressing it.

To be clear, I am not talking about the seatpost itself. I am talking about the remote control. Everywhere I have looked they only talk about the seat post being slow or hard to press down. I have recently bled the hydraulic line and the seat post itself works like a charm. I have had this seatpost for more than a year and I am sure it wasn't like this before.

Thanks for your help,
Dan
They can get slightly bent, not enough to really notice, but enough to snag it when it goes in and out.
Remove the button on the end and the rubber boot and you'll see if it's bent at all. Just be careful if you have to straighten it, they snap real easy!
It may not be the solution but it's worth a look
flag Snozz
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 12:00 Quote
riish wrote:
scjeremy wrote:
I'm going to try out vorsprung's luftkappe air piston on my pike. I'm a proficient home mechanic and have built bikes from the frame up. I've service my monarch but my friend at the shop has done my fork. I'm pretty (youtube) confident in the job but I wanted to try some skf seals also. I picked up some snap ring pliers, seal pick, oil, and sram butter but I'm reluctant to throw down $20+ on the seal installation tool. Is this thing necessary? Is it easy enough to just use a socket? How tight are the tolerances and how easy is it to f up some $25 seals? Imbue me with you knowlege, great wrenches of the interweb. Thnx

I've never used a seal press for any of my forks, I always press them in with my hands.
I got the Unior one and it works well with the new flange less seals.
flag scjeremy
O+
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 12:44 Quote
Thanks for the info everybody. Can't wait to feel that pike with the new air valve and seal upgrade.
flag silverfish1974
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 13:32 Quote
Ohh yeah to remove the Pike air top cap(token side) you need a 24mm socket or you can use a 24mm spanner. I use a 24mm park tool cone wrench.

If you use a socket then best to use a flat faced socket non chamfered so it doesn't slip and damage the bolt.

Unior and a few other places sell the flat faced sockets. Epic bleed sell some cheap ones that they've grounded flat themselves I believe. Abbey Tools sell some fancy expensive sockets.

I found it wasn't hard to loosen the air side top cap the first time and my 24mm cone spanner did the job fine.

My list of spanners and sockets needed.

6,10, 15, 24, 30mm sockets.
2x21mm, 25mm spanners.
15mm cone wrench.
5/8" bit socket may come in handy.
If using a torque wrench then a 21 and a 25mm crows foot wrench would be handy too but you can use the Park Tool cone wrenches instead as a 1/8" suaqre drive ratchet fits in the hole in the handle..

I think I have all the other necessary bits and tools.
flag neorider
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 13:50 Quote
silverfish1974 wrote:
Ohh yeah to remove the Pike air top cap(token side) you need a 24mm socket or you can use a 24mm spanner. I use a 24mm park tool cone wrench.

If you use a socket then best to use a flat faced socket non chamfered so it doesn't slip and damage the bolt.

Unior and a few other places sell the flat faced sockets. Epic bleed sell some cheap ones that they've grounded flat themselves I believe. Abbey Tools sell some fancy expensive sockets.

I found it wasn't hard to loosen the air side top cap the first time and my 24mm cone spanner did the job fine.

My list of spanners and sockets needed.

6,10, 15, 24, 30mm sockets.
2x21mm, 25mm spanners.
15mm cone wrench.
5/8" bit socket may come in handy.
If using a torque wrench then a 21 and a 25mm crows foot wrench would be handy too but you can use the Park Tool cone wrenches instead as a 1/8" suaqre drive ratchet fits in the hole in the handle..

I think I have all the other necessary bits and tools.

good call with the FLAT FACED SOCKETS, I've rounded a couple top caps in my day
flag talkingspoon
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 17:54 Quote
jackstack wrote:
Just on a whim here though dont suppose you can reduce the eye to eye of a coil shock.....Its a Fox Vanilla RC Factory Series Kashima Coil. The eye to eye is 241mm though my frame is 200...In other likely news who may want a Fox Vanilla RC Factory Series Kashima Coil Shock.

you can reduce but you will also be reducing the stroke of the shock. if the van is rebuildable.
flag jackstack
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 18:12 Quote
william4269 wrote:
jackstack wrote:
Just on a whim here though dont suppose you can reduce the eye to eye of a coil shock.....Its a Fox Vanilla RC Factory Series Kashima Coil. The eye to eye is 241mm though my frame is 200...In other likely news who may want a Fox Vanilla RC Factory Series Kashima Coil Shock.

you can reduce but you will also be reducing the stroke of the shock. if the van is rebuildable.


I think it has nitrogen inside it instead of normal air and hence it needed to be sent to a specialist to get serviced
flag Eddkilla
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 19:27 Quote
jackstack wrote:
william4269 wrote:
jackstack wrote:
Just on a whim here though dont suppose you can reduce the eye to eye of a coil shock.....Its a Fox Vanilla RC Factory Series Kashima Coil. The eye to eye is 241mm though my frame is 200...In other likely news who may want a Fox Vanilla RC Factory Series Kashima Coil Shock.

you can reduce but you will also be reducing the stroke of the shock. if the van is rebuildable.


I think it has nitrogen inside it instead of normal air and hence it needed to be sent to a specialist to get serviced

Do you guys know why nitrogen is used to back the ifp instead of regular air? Also, why is the pressure set to around 250psi or so? To my understanding it's to help the movement of the ifp be linked with the movement of the shaft of the shock but I'm not sure why such a high pressure is required. Does anyone have any knowledge that they'd like to bestow? Thanks!
flag BT180
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 20:43 Quote
Float X volume spacer question

So I have my sag set perfectly and the rear shock is running sweet for the most part. I'm just bottoming out on the bigger hits, so I want to install a volume spacer to aid in bottom out resistance. Apparently my shock has the 0.6 spacer already pre-installed, which is the 3rd biggest of the 5 sizes.

Logically I'd try out the 4th biggest which is the 0.8. Now, I've been kindly given a spacer kit to experiment with, but the 0.8 is being used by the owner. So I can't use that.

Question is, can I use multiple spacers? If I install the 0.2 (smallest) on top of my already installed 0.6, I'd get the equivalent of a 0.8 right?
flag jackstack
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 21:15 Quote
Eddkilla wrote:
jackstack wrote:
william4269 wrote:


you can reduce but you will also be reducing the stroke of the shock. if the van is rebuildable.


I think it has nitrogen inside it instead of normal air and hence it needed to be sent to a specialist to get serviced

Do you guys know why nitrogen is used to back the ifp instead of regular air? Also, why is the pressure set to around 250psi or so? To my understanding it's to help the movement of the ifp be linked with the movement of the shaft of the shock but I'm not sure why such a high pressure is required. Does anyone have any knowledge that they'd like to bestow? Thanks!
same
flag Nobble
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 22:04 Quote
BT180 wrote:
Float X volume spacer question

So I have my sag set perfectly and the rear shock is running sweet for the most part. I'm just bottoming out on the bigger hits, so I want to install a volume spacer to aid in bottom out resistance. Apparently my shock has the 0.6 spacer already pre-installed, which is the 3rd biggest of the 5 sizes.

Logically I'd try out the 4th biggest which is the 0.8. Now, I've been kindly given a spacer kit to experiment with, but the 0.8 is being used by the owner. So I can't use that.

Question is, can I use multiple spacers? If I install the 0.2 (smallest) on top of my already installed 0.6, I'd get the equivalent of a 0.8 right?
you can't stack them, no.
flag Scotj009
O+
Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 1:03 Quote
Oh right, I was looking at putting some volume pacers in my float x and thought you could stack them just like the rockshox ones... Is it as simple as the rockshox ones though, as in you just undo the air can and clip them on?

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv65 0.036019
Mobile Version of Website