Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag dhmtbr777
Posted: Jan 17, 2019 at 20:11 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
iffy wrote:
dhmtbr777 wrote:
It’s an old cane creek. That could be the problem.

they are rubbish and relied on an o-ring instead of the split collet on all other headsets.
it may be missing/damaged/worn?

they now changed the system they use as the patent has expired on the collet system.

BTW fork crown race, you can cut them to make it a split race and it makes fitting/removal a pleasure Wink

Love that split race idea on its surface but can anyone give a good reason why you'd want/need it to be pressed on like they currently are for the most part? Is this just a carry over from when headset bearings were loose ball/retainer ball instead of cartridge bearings? Like the loose ball bearings wouldn't tolerate the inconsistently at the split but for cartridge bearings its a moot point?

its pretty torn up. I ordered a new one.
flag potato
Posted: Jan 17, 2019 at 20:29 Quote
I think you have front and back mixed up.


bike2850 wrote:
Why aren’t axles bigger on enduro and trail bikes? Down hill bikes have 15 and 20 mm axles and trail/ enduro bikes only get 12/10. Why not make the bigger and thus stronger? The only reason I can see it not happening is weight but it can’t be that big of a difference right?
flag bike2850
O+
Posted: Jan 17, 2019 at 20:32 Quote
potato wrote:
I think you have front and back mixed up.


bike2850 wrote:
Why aren’t axles bigger on enduro and trail bikes? Down hill bikes have 15 and 20 mm axles and trail/ enduro bikes only get 12/10. Why not make the bigger and thus stronger? The only reason I can see it not happening is weight but it can’t be that big of a difference right?
Yeah your right. Silly me. It’s still bigger on a DH bike though.
flag naptime
Posted: Jan 17, 2019 at 21:38 Quote
OK, I have a Hope mono 07 caliper that I need to re position the banjo to point down for better hose routing as, at the moment it is interfering with getting good caliper/Rotor alignment.
Befor I start with the spanners does any body know if I can space the banjo away from the caliper with those brass? washers that sit either side on the banjo bolt? If so haw many washers could I get away with
Cheers
flag adespotoskyli
Posted: Jan 17, 2019 at 22:01 Quote
Just loose the bolt and position aaccordingly, you don't have to remove it, but in case you have to, you can reuse the same washers, one per side, and easily available on any hardware store,
Also not recomended to stack them, washers are soft so the joining surfaces can 'dig in' and seal, two washers pressing on one another won't give you a good seal
flag naptime
Posted: Jan 17, 2019 at 22:48 Quote
cheers on the washer info but, I have to remove it to get it past the bolt mount. I'm having to put the hose underneath the mount, like pointing at 7-8 o'clock
flag Marasdfg
Posted: Jan 17, 2019 at 22:57 Quote
bike2850 wrote:
potato wrote:
I think you have front and back mixed up.


bike2850 wrote:
Why aren’t axles bigger on enduro and trail bikes? Down hill bikes have 15 and 20 mm axles and trail/ enduro bikes only get 12/10. Why not make the bigger and thus stronger? The only reason I can see it not happening is weight but it can’t be that big of a difference right?
Yeah your right. Silly me. It’s still bigger on a DH bike though.

Don't the most common dh bikes use 12mm rear axles like any trail bike? The hub width differs though.

But the front axle system I don't get. 20 mm diameter axles are 110 mm wide, 15 mm axles are 100 mm wide. Now there is this newish 15 mm boost, that is 110 mm wide. Why create a new size instead of the old 20 mm axle which is already 110 mm wide?

The answer is probably money. Still I'd like to believe that manufacturers aren't as money-grubbing as the mtb community likes to think, that there would be at least even a small benefit to user in every new thread pitch, axle diameter etc, not just the manufacturers trying to sell stuff for the sake of selling.
flag Ploutre
Posted: Jan 18, 2019 at 0:35 Quote
Marasdfg wrote:
Don't the most common dh bikes use 12mm rear axles like any trail bike? The hub width differs though.

But the front axle system I don't get. 20 mm diameter axles are 110 mm wide, 15 mm axles are 100 mm wide. Now there is this newish 15 mm boost, that is 110 mm wide. Why create a new size instead of the old 20 mm axle which is already 110 mm wide?

The answer is probably money. Still I'd like to believe that manufacturers aren't as money-grubbing as the mtb community likes to think, that there would be at least even a small benefit to user in every new thread pitch, axle diameter etc, not just the manufacturers trying to sell stuff for the sake of selling.

I guess you're not up to the latest bullshit then, because 20mm boost exists lol

It's the same width, 110mm, but the rotor is moved outward ever so slightly. You supposedly have slightly better left-right balance on the spokes tension... Completely useless, as again, some non-boost hubs have a much better geometry than fancy boost-specific hubs, but whatever ...
flag potato
Posted: Jan 18, 2019 at 3:35 Quote
There are many factors.

Definitely some BS.
Some money grubbing, because there are customers that do always want the newest thing.

But you can't deny that bike technology has evolved positively.
All the little changes have created incredibly capable bikes.

It also creates choices, you can use it or not.

The original comment is a bit silly, he could use 20mm on his trail bike if he wants.
There are many older forks, suitable for trail that are 20mm.
And now the are also 20mm boost forks, he could do whatever he wants and to me that is cool.
flag TBaggins
O+
Posted: Jan 18, 2019 at 7:54 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
Love that split race idea on its surface but can anyone give a good reason why you'd want/need it to be pressed on like they currently are for the most part? Is this just a carry over from when headset bearings were loose ball/retainer ball instead of cartridge bearings? Like the loose ball bearings wouldn't tolerate the inconsistently at the split but for cartridge bearings its a moot point?

If you're just asking why crown races are still necessary, they still do the job of supporting the lower headset bearing. Each bearing company has a different design for crown races so make sure you're replacing that as well if you're switching brands (or models or generations of model, etc) of headset. The split idea seems pretty good as theoretically the ID of the crown race and the seat diameter of the steer tube should be exactly the same, but if tolerances are just off enough, that split could elongate the shape of the crown race, making a poor fit with the lower headset bearing and cup
flag titaniumtit
Posted: Jan 18, 2019 at 9:09 Quote
Apart from say an öhlins fork where crown race not required
flag Marasdfg
Posted: Jan 19, 2019 at 0:09 Quote
Does anyone know where to get spare parts to Shimano brakes? One of my Zee's pistons got broken. I managed to found an unofficial replacement piston for Saint/Zee from ebay, but turns out I also need one bolt that holds the caliper halves together.

When I was trying to open the caliper so that I could remove the broken piston, the marked bolt was stuck and I had to use power tools to unscrew it. Unfortunately the bolt got ruined at the process and it appears that I they don't seem to be found anywhere.

The bolt had a hollow core so the mineral oil could transfer from caliper half to another. So any regular bolt won't do.

sell me that bolt plz
flag iffy
Posted: Jan 19, 2019 at 5:45 Quote
TBaggins wrote:
freestyIAM wrote:
Love that split race idea on its surface but can anyone give a good reason why you'd want/need it to be pressed on like they currently are for the most part? Is this just a carry over from when headset bearings were loose ball/retainer ball instead of cartridge bearings? Like the loose ball bearings wouldn't tolerate the inconsistently at the split but for cartridge bearings its a moot point?

If you're just asking why crown races are still necessary, they still do the job of supporting the lower headset bearing. Each bearing company has a different design for crown races so make sure you're replacing that as well if you're switching brands (or models or generations of model, etc) of headset. The split idea seems pretty good as theoretically the ID of the crown race and the seat diameter of the steer tube should be exactly the same, but if tolerances are just off enough, that split could elongate the shape of the crown race, making a poor fit with the lower headset bearing and cup

the bearing cartridge sits on the angled part of the race, it would just sit a little higher or lower on the crown race seat.

if your steerer is ovalised then there is nothing to do but pray.

never had any issues doing tihs mod
flag naptime
Posted: Jan 19, 2019 at 5:51 Quote
Aren't split races designed to tighten as they're compressed? Same as the compression washer in the top
flag goytay
Posted: Jan 19, 2019 at 10:24 Quote
Marasdfg wrote:
Does anyone know where to get spare parts to Shimano brakes? One of my Zee's pistons got broken. I managed to found an unofficial replacement piston for Saint/Zee from ebay, but turns out I also need one bolt that holds the caliper halves together.

When I was trying to open the caliper so that I could remove the broken piston, the marked bolt was stuck and I had to use power tools to unscrew it. Unfortunately the bolt got ruined at the process and it appears that I they don't seem to be found anywhere.

The bolt had a hollow core so the mineral oil could transfer from caliper half to another. So any regular bolt won't do.

sell me that bolt plz

http://www.kinetikcycles.com/shimano-shimano-disc-brake-caliper-br-m640-zee.html

 


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