Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: May 23, 2019 at 12:43 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
El-Mustachio wrote:
Whats better?
Getting a cheaper bike and upgrading as I go?
Or saving up for a generally better specced bike/custom build?

Generally saving up for better spec., but there are so many caveats.

How long would you have to save up and how bad is the current bike? How expensive is the better spec. you're considering? It's generally better to get a better spec. initially because then you're essentially "buying" the parts at wholesale (i.e. the price difference is less than the MSRP difference) and you don't have to sell the used parts, but if you buy a modest bike now and upgrade only with used or tremendously discounted items, then you'll be buying parts at good prices - and maybe you don't mind having to sell the original parts.

So many variables! One thing is always true, though: a custom "dream bike" build is always a terrible value.

Some general advice:

1. A frame with good, modern geometry. You don't want to upgrade the frame.
2. Modest drivetrains are perfectly good, ex. Shimano SLX, Sram NX.
3. Carbon is never worth it when you're on a budget.
4. 203 mm rotors make mediocre brakes feel decent.
5. When you wear out your rear tire, move the front to the rear and get a new front. Always have a fresh front tire.
6. A comfortable saddle makes more difference to your happiness than almost anything else. If you're three hours into a six hour ride and your crotch is already in agony, you won't care whether your shifting is electronic or every part of your bike is carbon.
7. There's no such thing as too much drop for your seatpost.
8. There are ways to spend your bike fund beyond the bike: You'll be happier taking a mid-priced bike to great destinations than always riding a dream bike on the same local trail.

Thats really helpful. Thanks!
I've just been wondering cause I'm moving to the alps sooner than expected and my current mountaibike will be way out of its depth there.

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 13:09 Quote
sunpunkMTB wrote:
Duderz7 wrote:
sunpunkMTB wrote:
I am rehab-ing a 2005 Marz EXR Pro coil fork 120mm. Here's a pic of the innards. According to Marz manual & exploded view, the 120 should not have the black plastic (preload spacers?) above rebound springs on the push rods. I'm trying to eliminate a bad top-out clunk in the fork. Hoping a rebuild and 10wt oil will help. One of the spacers is cracked & pretty rough along bottom edge. Should the spacers even be there and can they be omitted? What would change?

internal parts of Marzocchi EXR Pro coil
If I'm understanding you, it's a spacer on the negative spring. In which case or would raise the fork and increase the travel by the size of the spacer. Don't do this ones you can be sure the stanchion fully engages the lower bushing when topped out. Is it possible your fork is actually 100mm travel and that's why your not seeing that spacer on the diagram for the 120mm.

Measured travel was 4.75" range (120mm). So this could possibly be the 105 model in which someone added spacers to increase to 120? Exploded view of 105 model does show spacers. Didn't quite understand your second comment. Are the spacers a good thing or a bad thing in this case? I'd rather keep 120 travel if having the spacers accomplishes that; however, if removing them resolves top out clunk, I would def leave them out.
If the spacers are on the positive spring (big one) removing them would reduce preload, maybe cause dead space. If they are on the negative side (small spring) below piston moving them to the positive will increase travel by that much. This is how marz often had different travel forks of the same model. As far as top out fresh oil might help. Also some of their forks had a rebound adjustment down in the rod. Look at it from the top and see if you can see an Allen head down in there.

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 13:11 Quote
I'll just add for for myself personally, I never opt for the top spec because I'm paying top dollar for top end parts but not necessarily the top end parts I WANT on the bike. So i just buy the bike that has good bones, frame and sus components, and over the course of the life of the bike (5 years for me) I'll upgrade things with the exact products I want. Also keeps the wifey from noticing how much I'm spending on bikes as she doesn't see a huge single hit drain on our savings account Wink

EDIT: I also think that savings your dollars between 2 models with different suspension, like getting the bike with a Pike RC rather than the one with the Pike RCT3 AND spending the difference on custom tuning gives you a better performing suspension set up than a stock higher end fork with more knobs and special coatings.

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 13:17 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
I'll just add for for myself personally, I never opt for the top spec because I'm paying top dollar for top end parts but not necessarily the top end parts I WANT on the bike. So i just buy the bike that has good bones, frame and sus components, and over the course of the life of the bike (5 years for me) I'll upgrade things with the exact products I want. Also keeps the wifey from noticing how much I'm spending on bikes as she doesn't see a huge single hit drain on our savings account Wink
this. Upgrade the parts you want (suspension) and stick with the parts that don't matter (stem, bars, cassette)

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 13:45 Quote
That's why bikes like the Stumpjumper Pro are so cool. The suspension is Fox Factory front and back, the rims are carbon, it's got Guide RS brakes, but the drivetrain is GX Eagle. Nothing particularly wrong with GX, but they spent money where they needed to in order to get good bouncy bits and a decent workhorse for the rest of the build.

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 13:49 Quote
Duderz7 wrote:
sunpunkMTB wrote:
Duderz7 wrote:

If I'm understanding you, it's a spacer on the negative spring. In which case or would raise the fork and increase the travel by the size of the spacer. Don't do this ones you can be sure the stanchion fully engages the lower bushing when topped out. Is it possible your fork is actually 100mm travel and that's why your not seeing that spacer on the diagram for the 120mm.

Measured travel was 4.75" range (120mm). So this could possibly be the 105 model in which someone added spacers to increase to 120? Exploded view of 105 model does show spacers. Didn't quite understand your second comment. Are the spacers a good thing or a bad thing in this case? I'd rather keep 120 travel if having the spacers accomplishes that; however, if removing them resolves top out clunk, I would def leave them out.
If the spacers are on the positive spring (big one) removing them would reduce preload, maybe cause dead space. If they are on the negative side (small spring) below piston moving them to the positive will increase travel by that much. This is how marz often had different travel forks of the same model. As far as top out fresh oil might help. Also some of their forks had a rebound adjustment down in the rod. Look at it from the top and see if you can see an Allen head down in there.

Yeah the spacers are currently on the negative side... right on top of the small springs on push rods. So you're saying these same spacers could move to the positive side of things? I don't wanna create dead space so I guess they need to stay one way or another. Are old Marz parts still available? If spacers stay put I'd better replace the cracked one if possible. Will have a look down in the rod to see if this model had the adjustment.

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 14:27 Quote
Thanks all. I'll probably end up getting the canyon spectral al 5.0 then and upgrading the rear shock at some point as I think the rest will be fine for me

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 14:39 Quote
El-Mustachio wrote:
Thanks all. I'll probably end up getting the canyon spectral al 5.0 then and upgrading the rear shock at some point as I think the rest will be fine for me

Solid choice. If you can stretch your budget to the 6.0, then you won't have to do any upgrading, plus you'll get some minor component upgrades. Both are great values.

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 15:48 Quote
I want to go from 12 speed eagle to 11 speed sram. can i change the cassette, derailleur, chain and shifter and keep the gx eagle cranks? i have the XD freehub.
thanks

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 16:45 Quote
sunpunkMTB wrote:
Duderz7 wrote:
sunpunkMTB wrote:


Measured travel was 4.75" range (120mm). So this could possibly be the 105 model in which someone added spacers to increase to 120? Exploded view of 105 model does show spacers. Didn't quite understand your second comment. Are the spacers a good thing or a bad thing in this case? I'd rather keep 120 travel if having the spacers accomplishes that; however, if removing them resolves top out clunk, I would def leave them out.
If the spacers are on the positive spring (big one) removing them would reduce preload, maybe cause dead space. If they are on the negative side (small spring) below piston moving them to the positive will increase travel by that much. This is how marz often had different travel forks of the same model. As far as top out fresh oil might help. Also some of their forks had a rebound adjustment down in the rod. Look at it from the top and see if you can see an Allen head down in there.

Yeah the spacers are currently on the negative side... right on top of the small springs on push rods. So you're saying these same spacers could move to the positive side of things? I don't wanna create dead space so I guess they need to stay one way or another. Are old Marz parts still available? If spacers stay put I'd better replace the cracked one if possible. Will have a look down in the rod to see if this model had the adjustment.
You could probably cut your own spacer or of an appropriately sized piece of plastic tube. But yeah it's gotta go somewhere in there, but top or bottom might be an option just don't forget to make sure you have enough overlap for the bushings.

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 16:52 Quote
bike2850 wrote:
I want to go from 12 speed eagle to 11 speed sram. can i change the cassette, derailleur, chain and shifter and keep the gx eagle cranks? i have the XD freehub.
thanks

Yes cranks are fine. You could also keep your eagle derailleur because it uses the same X-Actuation system as 11 speed.

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 16:58 Quote
Bflutz625 wrote:
bike2850 wrote:
I want to go from 12 speed eagle to 11 speed sram. can i change the cassette, derailleur, chain and shifter and keep the gx eagle cranks? i have the XD freehub.
thanks

Yes cranks are fine. You could also keep your eagle derailleur because it uses the same X-Actuation system as 11 speed.
cool. thanks

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 20:52 Quote
Duderz7 wrote:
sunpunkMTB wrote:
Duderz7 wrote:

If the spacers are on the positive spring (big one) removing them would reduce preload, maybe cause dead space. If they are on the negative side (small spring) below piston moving them to the positive will increase travel by that much. This is how marz often had different travel forks of the same model. As far as top out fresh oil might help. Also some of their forks had a rebound adjustment down in the rod. Look at it from the top and see if you can see an Allen head down in there.


Yeah the spacers are currently on the negative side... right on top of the small springs on push rods. So you're saying these same spacers could move to the positive side of things? I don't wanna create dead space so I guess they need to stay one way or another. Are old Marz parts still available? If spacers stay put I'd better replace the cracked one if possible. Will have a look down in the rod to see if this model had the adjustment.
You could probably cut your own spacer or of an appropriately sized piece of plastic tube. But yeah it's gotta go somewhere in there, but top or bottom might be an option just don't forget to make sure you have enough overlap for the bushings.

Will look to cut new spacers and leave them where they are. Still baffled as to why the Marz exploded view doesn't show them in play for the 120 model. Would there be any benefit to moving the spacers elsewhere? This is my first fork rebuild so there is plenty I don't know. If I cut them slightly taller and leave them below piston, what does it affect? Taller = stiffer? Current spacers are roughly 9/16" tall. My main goal was get rid of top-out clunk but would also like to keep the fork from blowing thru travel quickly. Hopefully 10wt oil will help with both.

Posted: May 23, 2019 at 23:22 Quote
Taller spacer on negative spring will decrease travel and increase preload, possibly making you're top out worse keep spacers the same size and put fresh oil in. Just take a moment to think how everything fits together and consider the effects of any changes made. These forks for are really quite simple. The worst thing you can do is over think it.


 
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