Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Oct 14, 2019 at 14:37 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
Hi i'm a newbie
Started enduro 3 months ago and i dont have any clue about what tire pressures i need
So İm 102kg with kit ,30mm internal rim and 170mm travel
What pressure should i use for base line?
Start with a low psi like 25 let's say go find a corner and rail or does your rear tire fold? If no then your good if yes then add more air

Posted: Oct 14, 2019 at 14:51 Quote
İm using tubeless and cushcore is a pretty expensive for me. 28 front 32 rear seems great i think maybe 34

Posted: Oct 14, 2019 at 14:58 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
İm using tubeless and cushcore is a pretty expensive for me. 28 front 32 rear seems great i think maybe 34

That sounds high. Depends on the tire construction (ex. light, DH double-ply, etc.), tire width, and your terrain. Approximately 15 - 30% higher for the rear is typical.

Posted: Oct 14, 2019 at 15:06 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
Noeserd wrote:
İm using tubeless and cushcore is a pretty expensive for me. 28 front 32 rear seems great i think maybe 34

That sounds high. Depends on the tire construction (ex. light, DH double-ply, etc.), tire width, and your terrain. Approximately 15 - 30% higher for the rear is typical.
For 100kg its not that high i think?
İ dented many rims on hardtail
Rear tire is 2.35 mm gravity casing
Front is 2.6 apex mm
Terrain is quite rocky and rooty

Posted: Oct 14, 2019 at 15:29 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
Noeserd wrote:
İm using tubeless and cushcore is a pretty expensive for me. 28 front 32 rear seems great i think maybe 34

That sounds high. Depends on the tire construction (ex. light, DH double-ply, etc.), tire width, and your terrain. Approximately 15 - 30% higher for the rear is typical.
For 100kg its not that high i think?
İ dented many rims on hardtail
Rear tire is 2.35 mm gravity casing
Front is 2.6 apex mm
Terrain is quite rocky and rooty

It is kinda high considering in 330 lbs and I run my rear tire at 36 psi with maxxis 2.5 exo casing tires and my front is 32

Posted: Oct 14, 2019 at 15:53 Quote
Everyone has a different preferred pressure. Keep experimenting until you find what's best for you. I feel you could go lower than 28 - 34 psi, but maybe not.

Posted: Oct 14, 2019 at 16:11 Quote
I wouldn't recommend going above 30 psi, but at the end of the day it's your bike. You can ride higher pressures if you want, but your traction in corners won't be as good as it could be, or you can run lower pressures and risk rolling a tire and denting the rim (just don't rail corners too hard or land on anything too pointy). You just have to experiment and find what works for you, you can debate it online for hours and not reach a conclusion.

Posted: Oct 14, 2019 at 22:45 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
Wale wrote:
Can I just use any 0w-30 oil in my Lyrik's lower legs? There are C3, C2 and A5/B5. Is there any major difference between these three?
I'm assuming these are all RS fluids? If so any of the three sould be fine as will land 0w30 suspension oil. Motor oil additive packages don't usually mix well with suspension components and can cause premature wear.

These are not RS fluids, but I thought if one would be identically. I guess not. I'll just get the RS one.

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 0:07 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
Everyone has a different preferred pressure. Keep experimenting until you find what's best for you. I feel you could go lower than 28 - 34 psi, but maybe not.
Yeah you are right. İ need to learn myself

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 2:29 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
Everyone has a different preferred pressure. Keep experimenting until you find what's best for you. I feel you could go lower than 28 - 34 psi, but maybe not.

Yeah you are right. İ need to learn myself

Finding your ideal settings is kind of a fun process - and with tire pressure, it's free and quick to test. Well, it's free unless you go too low and wreck a tire or rim!

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 2:37 Quote
Wale wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:
Wale wrote:
Can I just use any 0w-30 oil in my Lyrik's lower legs? There are C3, C2 and A5/B5. Is there any major difference between these three?
I'm assuming these are all RS fluids? If so any of the three sould be fine as will land 0w30 suspension oil. Motor oil additive packages don't usually mix well with suspension components and can cause premature wear.

These are not RS fluids, but I thought if one would be identically. I guess not. I'll just get the RS one.

Here's the One Table to Rule Them All.

Find the viscosity of your factory spec fluid (first column, units of cSt) and choose something fairly close - or not super close; almost anything will do. Maybe set the lower limit at, say, two-thirds of the original fluid; the upper limit can be considerably more viscous.

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 4:33 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
Wale wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:

I'm assuming these are all RS fluids? If so any of the three sould be fine as will land 0w30 suspension oil. Motor oil additive packages don't usually mix well with suspension components and can cause premature wear.

These are not RS fluids, but I thought if one would be identically. I guess not. I'll just get the RS one.

Here's the One Table to Rule Them All.

Find the viscosity of your factory spec fluid (first column, units of cSt) and choose something fairly close - or not super close; almost anything will do. Maybe set the lower limit at, say, two-thirds of the original fluid; the upper limit can be considerably more viscous.

As its lower leg bath oil then any will do, its effictivley I semi synthetic ester based engine oil. I use a home brew of all kinds of stuff or this: -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maxima-37901-Ultra4-Synthetic-Motorcycle/dp/B000OO2V3G

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 7:58 Quote
shoshy wrote:
I need some help with getting out this axle.


Bearings are toast, partially seized, you can't twist the axle by hand without really getting into it. Funny enough, there is enough leverage in the frame that i didn't even notice it until taking it apart....

Pushing it out by hand doesn't work.
Tapping it with soft head hammer doesn't work.
Hitting it with soft head hammer doesn't work.
Soaking it in WD40 overnight and going postal on it with soft head hammer doesn't work.

Any ideas on what to try next? Axle is hollow, aluminium and looks thick enough to take some pounding. Bearings are expandable.
Frame is Propain Spindrift

I have only general advice for you. To get all the energy from your hammer blows in to the axle, do everything you can to fix the frame in place so that it doesn't bounce when you hit it. If you can clamp it, great. The nuclear option is to use a hydraulic press if you have access to one. Support the frame so that it's as level as you can get it and gradually apply pressure to the axle. If the axle has rusted together with the inner bearing races, then you are in trouble. If that's the case you may need to get destructive with the axle.

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 11:13 Quote
WaterBear wrote:
I have only general advice for you. To get all the energy from your hammer blows in to the axle, do everything you can to fix the frame in place so that it doesn't bounce when you hit it. If you can clamp it, great. The nuclear option is to use a hydraulic press if you have access to one. Support the frame so that it's as level as you can get it and gradually apply pressure to the axle. If the axle has rusted together with the inner bearing races, then you are in trouble. If that's the case you may need to get destructive with the axle.

Right concept. If possible, find a socket or pipe/tube with about the same ID as the inner bearing race, just slightly larger. Slip it over the axle and against the race. Rest it on a cement floor or other immovable object. Now, when you hit the axle, nearly all the force is going toward breaking loose the axle.

Be careful to not keep hitting once the axle bottoms out on the socket, ground, etc., because then you're just compressing the axle and not moving it.

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 11:23 Quote
Tubeless setup without the audible 'pop' to confirm seated bead...

Just converted a set of RF Aeffect (trail) wheels to tubeless... internal width 24mm... running Minions 2.5 front and 2.4 back.
Prior to this, while swapping tires out (with tubes) the front Minion... new off the rack, had seated with a pop as I inflated the tube within. I had moved the old front to the back with no pop, and no surprise because I was still running tubes.
Here's the crux...
I did the dry run with soap and water... stans rim tape in place, and had inflated the tires to 50 psi... NO POP.
But it held (temporarily). I had deflated the tires... pulled the valve core out... injected the required amount of stans into the tire and had then re-inflated them back to 50 psi.
Again no pop.
However, no leaks either...
They're holding.
QUESTION.
Have they seated?
Or will they blow what ever seal they have the moment I hit the dirt on that first drop?


 
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