Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jul 4, 2020 at 10:23 Quote
jespinal wrote:
Is there a trick to taking off new cranks or I just have to lean in on the bitch

Totally dependent on the crank design. I would refrain from just leaning on it until you know for sure the proper removal method.

Posted: Jul 4, 2020 at 10:27 Quote
I'm looking for a qr20 thru axle to fit my Marzocchi drop off triple double crown forks, I can see them for sale but I don't wanna buy the wrong one, I know this isn't really a mechanics question but any info is good

O+
Posted: Jul 4, 2020 at 10:47 Quote
This on if there are threads where the axel goes.

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/154109-disassemble-marzocchi-20mm-axle/

This on if there are no threads and pinch bolts(99% sure this is what you need)
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2126200114

Posted: Jul 4, 2020 at 12:44 Quote
marcelevans wrote:
I'm looking for a qr20 thru axle to fit my Marzocchi drop off triple double crown forks, I can see them for sale but I don't wanna buy the wrong one, I know this isn't really a mechanics question but any info is good

Mind sharing the link where you see them for sale? I have been looking for one as well. Every thing I can find is listed as out of stock

Posted: Jul 4, 2020 at 13:07 Quote
what’s difference between solo air and dual position air on RockShox fork?

Posted: Jul 4, 2020 at 14:45 Quote
NikoLucic wrote:
what’s difference between solo air and dual position air on RockShox fork?

Solo air is a fixed travel spec that you have to use travel spacers or replace the air shaft to alter travel (not something you can do trailside)
Dual position has a built in passageway to allow the travel to be dropped by a nominal amount at the turn of a knob (dual position is RS equivalent of fox TALAS)

Posted: Jul 4, 2020 at 22:47 Quote
NikoLucic wrote:
what’s difference between solo air and dual position air on RockShox fork?
the difference is dual position rs ride even worse than solo air of the same era

Posted: Jul 4, 2020 at 23:26 Quote
[Quote="freestyIAM"]
rkelleybumpngrind wrote:
So I am a beginner at fixing bikes so I need some help. 2013 Trek Remedy 26'r. Currently have 185mm rotors and I figure if I have to swap for a different size I might as well go up to 200mm. Thoughts on that? I was wondering if someone could link a 200mm adapter that should work fine for me. Maybe a 180mm adapter too as I might go 180 front and 200 rear. Also, I have had a hard time figuring out what is the max tire width I could go on this setup. The bike was sold with 2.35's which is what I run and it seems like I have loads of space between the stays but I can't find a definite answer. Thank you very much!


As Ajax said, you normally want the same size rotors front and rear OR a larger rotor on the front.

Regarding adapters, you need an IS mount adapter for the rear and a post mount adapter for the front fork. You also need to account for what the native spacing is on both. Based on the age of the bike and that its a trail bike, I am going to guess the native spacing is for 160mm rotors.

Shimano 180mm IS mount adapter for a native 160mm mount frame
Shimano 203mm post mount adapter for a native 160mm post mounted fork

As for max tire width, there is no definitive answer because the printed tire width on tires is so inaccurate. You might be able to fit one brands 2.5 and not another's 2.4. That said, even if you could say squeeze a 2.6in tire into your frame it might not be advisable because tires and rims are a system and you can have a too wide/too narrow tire for a given rim width. If your rims inner width is too narrow, the 2.6in tire profile would be all wrong with your side knobs pointed parallel to the ground with no way of engaging them. Long story short, you should probably stick to 2.3/2.35 tires.

Thank you very much for the links. Have a good day!

Posted: Jul 5, 2020 at 3:05 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
jespinal wrote:
Is there a trick to taking off new cranks or I just have to lean in on the bitch
What cranks? Which part is fighting you? If it's a self extraction bolt on a splined interface more torque is your solution.
truvativ descendant cranks

Posted: Jul 5, 2020 at 6:07 Quote
Why are my xx1 11spd cranks really difficult to remove?

Posted: Jul 5, 2020 at 13:40 Quote
gcmartini wrote:
Why are my xx1 11spd cranks really difficult to remove?

All MTB SRAM cranks have a 54nm torque rating. That's pretty tight. Get a breaker bar and go to town. Leave the pedals on, put the bike on the ground, stand on the pedals, and pull up on the wrench.

Posted: Jul 5, 2020 at 15:12 Quote
If I want to upgrade one of my rotors from 180 to 200 mm, is it that spacer piece I need to get a larger one of so the caliper sits properly? What is that spacer called?

Thanks!

Posted: Jul 5, 2020 at 16:14 Quote
ryancanada wrote:
If I want to upgrade one of my rotors from 180 to 200 mm, is it that spacer piece I need to get a larger one of so the caliper sits properly? What is that spacer called?

Thanks!

Front or rear? IS or Post Mount?

Posted: Jul 5, 2020 at 16:36 Quote
seraph wrote:
ryancanada wrote:
If I want to upgrade one of my rotors from 180 to 200 mm, is it that spacer piece I need to get a larger one of so the caliper sits properly? What is that spacer called?

Thanks!

Front or rear? IS or Post Mount?

Front and post

Posted: Jul 5, 2020 at 18:14 Quote
ryancanada wrote:
seraph wrote:
ryancanada wrote:
If I want to upgrade one of my rotors from 180 to 200 mm, is it that spacer piece I need to get a larger one of so the caliper sits properly? What is that spacer called?

Thanks!

Front or rear? IS or Post Mount?

Front and post

You need a 20mm post mount adapter


 


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