Odd problem. Noticed that my front wheel looked dished over to the NDS, the tyre being visibly closer to one fork leg than the other. Put the wheel in the truing stand to check, and it's perfect, dished correctly. Wild Enduro tyre is seated properly on both sides, but deflated and inflated twice just to be sure. Stick the wheel back in the fork and it's still off. Fork is a 2020 Lyrik and not been crashed.
WTF is going on?
I once had a hub that the cones weren't solidly attached to the hub. I took it ot an LBS for a true an tension an they must have put the cones in the hub on the wrong side when they put it in the jig. So when I got it back an put it in the fork withe cones the right way.. the wheel was off to one side like you're describing..
Odd problem. Noticed that my front wheel looked dished over to the NDS, the tyre being visibly closer to one fork leg than the other. Put the wheel in the truing stand to check, and it's perfect, dished correctly. Wild Enduro tyre is seated properly on both sides, but deflated and inflated twice just to be sure. Stick the wheel back in the fork and it's still off. Fork is a 2020 Lyrik and not been crashed.
WTF is going on?
I once had a hub that the cones weren't solidly attached to the hub. I took it ot an LBS for a true an tension an they must have put the cones in the hub on the wrong side when they put it in the jig. So when I got it back an put it in the fork withe cones the right way.. the wheel was off to one side like you're describing..
Pretty sure both end caps are seated properly, and on the right sides. I've never removed them so can't see how they've got swapped over at any point. Will check though.
I've just swapped over the end caps (they're identical) and it seems to have helped centre the wheel better. Definitely not perfect, but much better than it was. I've never removed them, so unless a mate is playing a really shit joke, Ive no idea how that could have happened!
I've just swapped over the end caps (they're identical) and it seems to have helped centre the wheel better. Definitely not perfect, but much better than it was. I've never removed them, so unless a mate is playing a really shit joke, Ive no idea how that could have happened!
If the wheel was perfectly dished in the wheel jig, with the spacers on the other way round, and the spacers appear identical, this still feels odd... Especially if the rim is now better centered but still not perfect.
Any chance you could upload pics of the hub and spacers? With the spacers off the hub ideally.
I don't disagree, I'm baffled. I'll try and take photos later, but it's a Hope Pro 4 hub
This is a long shot, but Hope hubs are extremely adaptable so it's worth asking... Is the hub definitely set up for 15mm boost? The hubs are available in boost and non-boost versions, and with a whole host of possible end caps. If your hub is non-boost, and/or set up for a 20mm axle, this could cause the issue you are describing.
I don't disagree, I'm baffled. I'll try and take photos later, but it's a Hope Pro 4 hub
This is a long shot, but Hope hubs are extremely adaptable so it's worth asking... Is the hub definitely set up for 15mm boost? The hubs are available in boost and non-boost versions, and with a whole host of possible end caps. If your hub is non-boost, and/or set up for a 20mm axle, this could cause the issue you are describing.
Yep, definitely the right hubs and endcaps for my fork. I bought the wheels and forks together from a friend, and it was fine for the last year, this issue has only happened recently
2018 RS Pike Debonair Seemed to have lost the grub screw on my rebound adjuster. DOes anyone know the size and thread?
Its a funny old bolt that, not just a standard off the shelf thing. It's got a dognose and a socket cap, which is unusual as far as bolts go, and if you replace it with a standard bolt it will almost certainly jam the adjuster in place. Also, more often than not, if the bolt fell out mid-ride, the threads in the adjuster cap are probably stripped out too.
But, to answer your question, off the top of my head, I'm pretty sure its an M2.5
Doe's any one know if there is any consequences other than more friction from running a standard lower shock bushing rather than a bearing on a 2022 bronson?
Doe's any one know if there is any consequences other than more friction from running a standard lower shock bushing rather than a bearing on a 2022 bronson?
Noise? I have a Santa Cruz Hightower MY20 and regulary service the lower link. Tons of crap get in there, squeaking and grinding might become part of a ride
Doe's any one know if there is any consequences other than more friction from running a standard lower shock bushing rather than a bearing on a 2022 bronson?
No consequence of you ask me. Standard shock hardware will do fine.
Seems like I have a roughly 20 mm of "dead zone" in my Suntour XCR 32 Air. This means that the fork doesn't return to full 100mm travel and instead will return to 80mm of travel. Ik its a low end fork but any suggestions on fixes?
Seems like I have a roughly 20 mm of "dead zone" in my Suntour XCR 32 Air. This means that the fork doesn't return to full 100mm travel and instead will return to 80mm of travel. Ik its a low end fork but any suggestions on fixes?
the fork is sucked down you probably need to rebuild it, but you could try taking it apart and cleaning the internals and regrease everything with sickoluem and see what happens if that doesnt work it rebuild time or time for a new fork if you cant find parts