YT Capra Owners

Author Message
Posted: Sep 12, 2017 at 1:33 Quote
specializedhaybailer wrote:
I am changing out my drivetrain on the capra from Sram to Shimano and got everything I need to do it but am very wary of the cable routing for the derailleur. The shimano lever doesnt have the housing so I was just going to put it through the old sram housing which actually is pretty new. Are there any tips or things I should be aware of? I really don't want to take it to the LBS for this, its pretty simple besides my fear of cable routing through the old housing. Please help guys!!!!

I would of thought you should be ok doing this, just spray a load of grease into the housing then push the cable through, should help keep it smooth.

At some point though you are going to have to replace both, if you can pull the end of the old housing out of the hole, use a strong tape to attach the new housing to the old then just gently pull it through from the other end until the new housing appears. (Hope that makes sense lol)

Posted: Sep 12, 2017 at 4:49 Quote
specializedhaybailer wrote:
I am changing out my drivetrain on the capra from Sram to Shimano and got everything I need to do it but am very wary of the cable routing for the derailleur. The shimano lever doesnt have the housing so I was just going to put it through the old sram housing which actually is pretty new. Are there any tips or things I should be aware of? I really don't want to take it to the LBS for this, its pretty simple besides my fear of cable routing through the old housing. Please help guys!!!!

Two things to look out for. 1st, make sure when you pull the old cable out that you have a nice clean cut end so it want damage the inside of the outer. (I just done mine, the outer on my CF frame runs straight through the frame, no cut sections.)
I changed the inner cable to a 1.1 thickness cable. Some cables are thicker and will stick in the cable housing. Hope this helps.

Posted: Sep 12, 2017 at 5:02 Quote
," just spray a load of grease into the housing then push the cable through, should help keep it smooth."


DO NOT DO THIS ^^

lightly grease. and I mean lightly. the new inner cable.
and follow Andypandy44's good advice

Posted: Sep 12, 2017 at 6:37 Quote
G-A-R-Y wrote:
," just spray a load of grease into the housing then push the cable through, should help keep it smooth."


DO NOT DO THIS ^^

lightly grease. and I mean lightly. the new inner cable.
and follow Andypandy44's good advice

Explain why??

I've been doing this forever, as long as you use a spray grease as opposed to something like wd40 its fine and I have never had a problem! (Infact I did this to my YT when I received in Jan 2015 and my cable and housing are still like new). The spray grease also creates a water proof barrier to stop moisture traveling down the outer housing and cable and corroding from the inside. Although I do agree some grease on inner cable is also a good idea.

Posted: Sep 12, 2017 at 7:47 Quote
j-wasilenko wrote:
I just installed the Cane Creek 40 in last night to replace the Acros headset. It seems to fit just fine but also thought it might be a 0.05mm in diameter to small. Hope it lasts longer and at least the bearings are easy to find online and replace.

I looked at Hope headsets as well but didn't see any that would fit. Which one did you pick up?

dlgis wrote:
Took the headset bearings out again, the bottom one had some play again when the fork was in the frame, but the bearing itself was fine, so this does look like a tolerance issue. I think the combined thickness of the bottom bearing and the crown race is a factor i.e. they need to be slightly thicker than the CC and Acros ones ive been using. Got the spare Hope bearing/race out and it does look like it might be thicker, so thats gone on the bike and i'll be giving it a workout on Monday if i dont get rained off in Wales Confused

The bottom bearing is from the Hope pick and mix range, type J, IS52/40 - assuming you have the later carbon frame with fully integrated bearings. Available here in uk - www.tredz.co.uk.
Comes with crown race.

Posted: Sep 12, 2017 at 8:42 Quote
Dave2183 wrote:
Explain why??

#Science

Posted: Sep 12, 2017 at 11:17 Quote
Hi guys.
I'm thinking about a new bike. Currently riding on Kona Process 134, yet I'm about to move to Bratislava in winter, where I'll be just a couple hours away from cool bikeparks. After I've rode this summer in Portes du Soleil, I understand that my 134 won't fit at all for real mountain challenges, so I consider Capra as my primary option because it has a great price, good pedaling efficiency and suitable both for enduro and bikepark riding. Another huge bonus is non-boost rear end, I've bought a couple of Hadleys for my Kona and don't want to sell them. I have a couple of concerns, though:
1) Sizing. I know it was chewed all over 1300+ pages, but it scares me a bit to buy S bike with reach less than 400mm, while all new bikes come with 425mm (in small). My Proccess has 416mm + 35mm stem. Is it an option to leave stock 50m stem? I'm 5'4" height (163 cm).
2) I guess we're about to have discounts towards end of the year. Any estimations when and how much?
Thanks!

Posted: Sep 12, 2017 at 18:41 Quote
eugen-fried wrote:
1) Sizing. I know it was chewed all over 1300+ pages, but it scares me a bit to buy S bike with reach less than 400mm, while all new bikes come with 425mm (in small). My Proccess has 416mm + 35mm stem. Is it an option to leave stock 50m stem? I'm 5'4" height (163 cm).

Keeping the stock 50mm stem wouldn't be a bad option as it gets the reach pretty close to what you currently have set up on your Process (448mm vs 451mm). But like most people have mentioned here, your best bet is to find one locally and pedal it around.

I'm 5'6"-5'7" on a small Capra and it's been working out well for me. My previous bike was a medium Nomad gen 2, so I might be a little biased when it comes to smaller cockpits (the Capra is ~0.5" longer in the reach department).

Posted: Sep 12, 2017 at 22:28 Quote
Can we talk suspension? I got a Slayer but this should be close enough and there isn't an active slayer forum. Anyone pushing 200 lb? How are you setting up your lyrik? On demos I found myself more comfortable riding the front a little softer than recommended but I still can't get it dialed in right.

Posted: Sep 13, 2017 at 4:37 Quote
jchiu wrote:
eugen-fried wrote:
...

Keeping the stock 50mm stem wouldn't be a bad option as it gets the reach pretty close to what you currently have set up on your Process (448mm vs 451mm). But like most people have mentioned here, your best bet is to find one locally and pedal it around.

I'm 5'6"-5'7" on a small Capra and it's been working out well for me. My previous bike was a medium Nomad gen 2, so I might be a little biased when it comes to smaller cockpits (the Capra is ~0.5" longer in the reach department).

Thanks for the reply! I'll try to search for a test ride around.

Yeah, I used to ride Spec SJ Evo 2011 with 401mm reach + 35mm stem for 4 years and it was totally fine. But now with all the longer-slacker marketing BS I start to doubt if my feelings were right :-D

Posted: Sep 13, 2017 at 5:37 Quote
G-A-R-Y wrote:
Dave2183 wrote:
Explain why??

#Science

So I offer evidence to show the advice I have given is sound, and you offer .............#science

Good onetup

Posted: Sep 13, 2017 at 5:46 Quote
Hi guys
Im thinking of buying the capra al.
Everything is great except one thing. How does the rockshox monarch plus r do on climbs (if I am right that it has no lockout).
Thanks

Posted: Sep 13, 2017 at 7:39 Quote
16atrost wrote:
Hi guys
Im thinking of buying the capra al.
Everything is great except one thing. How does the rockshox monarch plus r do on climbs (if I am right that it has no lockout).
Thanks
The questions is, how you do on climb?Smile

Monarch and capra suspension do it well.

Posted: Sep 13, 2017 at 8:44 Quote
lkuzba wrote:
16atrost wrote:
Hi guys
Im thinking of buying the capra al.
Everything is great except one thing. How does the rockshox monarch plus r do on climbs (if I am right that it has no lockout).
Thanks
The questions is, how you do on climb?Smile

Monarch and capra suspension do it well.

And coil does it better on all except fire road climbs.

Posted: Sep 13, 2017 at 11:35 Quote
16atrost wrote:
Hi guys
Im thinking of buying the capra al.
Everything is great except one thing. How does the rockshox monarch plus r do on climbs (if I am right that it has no lockout).
Thanks

There's not much pedal bob to be fair,climbs fine Smile


 


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