Marzocchi 380 Master Thread

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Marzocchi 380 Master Thread
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flag Kitejumping
O+
Posted: Aug 22, 2016 at 10:33 Quote
rock-rod wrote:
Makes sense. Is there any need to separate the lower legs from the stanchions (other than removing the retaining nuts from the bottom of the legs)? This part worries me because of possibly damaging the seals when reinstalling the lowers.

Only if you want to stuff the seals with slick honey.
flag rock-rod
Posted: Aug 22, 2016 at 14:58 Quote
Well i got it done. Managed to drain out the fluid and found that my fork was really low on oil. Put new 7.5w oil in measured out correctly. I put100ml in the compression/rebound leg and bled the DBC and set the oil level inside to 67mm below the top of the reservoir. I also put 250ml into the spring side leg. Now the comp/rebound knobs actually do something. If I completely close both HSR and LSR, the fork will extend very slowly. Opening the valves up one click at a time cause the fork to extend at a ever increasing rate until all the way open, there is no rebound control at all. The compression seems to be the same.

Getting the compression assembly back into it's home is a huge pain. It takes some serious force to compress everything back together.
flag Kitejumping
O+
Posted: Aug 22, 2016 at 16:58 Quote
rock-rod wrote:
Well i got it done. Managed to drain out the fluid and found that my fork was really low on oil. Put new 7.5w oil in measured out correctly. I put100ml in the compression/rebound leg and bled the DBC and set the oil level inside to 67mm below the top of the reservoir. I also put 250ml into the spring side leg. Now the comp/rebound knobs actually do something. If I completely close both HSR and LSR, the fork will extend very slowly. Opening the valves up one click at a time cause the fork to extend at a ever increasing rate until all the way open, there is no rebound control at all. The compression seems to be the same.

Getting the compression assembly back into it's home is a huge pain. It takes some serious force to compress everything back together.

What would you estimate the breakaway force is on your fork (how much does it take to get it started moving in the travel)?
flag rock-rod
Posted: Aug 22, 2016 at 17:27 Quote
somewhere around 10 lbs or so..
flag Kitejumping
O+
Posted: Aug 22, 2016 at 20:02 Quote
rock-rod wrote:
somewhere around 10 lbs or so..

Yeah, mine is definitely jacked then, fox sent mine back without fixing the damper.
flag way2manyhobbies2keep
Posted: Aug 30, 2016 at 12:37 Quote
rock-rod wrote:
Well i got it done. Managed to drain out the fluid and found that my fork was really low on oil. Put new 7.5w oil in measured out correctly. I put100ml in the compression/rebound leg and bled the DBC and set the oil level inside to 67mm below the top of the reservoir. I also put 250ml into the spring side leg. Now the comp/rebound knobs actually do something. If I completely close both HSR and LSR, the fork will extend very slowly. Opening the valves up one click at a time cause the fork to extend at a ever increasing rate until all the way open, there is no rebound control at all. The compression seems to be the same.

Getting the compression assembly back into it's home is a huge pain. It takes some serious force to compress everything back together.

That's not a good sign, are you saying that one click out from closed is basically fully open?
flag way2manyhobbies2keep
Posted: Aug 30, 2016 at 12:38 Quote
Kitejumping wrote:
rock-rod wrote:
somewhere around 10 lbs or so..

Yeah, mine is definitely jacked then, fox sent mine back without fixing the damper.

It took me a return trip to fox for them to figure things out. Call them and don't let them blow you off.
flag LooseriderHafjell
Posted: Sep 3, 2016 at 0:54 Quote
Hi guys! Thanks for the awesome info on this thread, because of it i have been able to service my marz 380cr a couple of timesSmile
But now im having some trouble with the lsc adjustment, it just keeps on spinning round and a round with out adjusting or coming to a full stop in either direction. Had to take the DBC cartridge out of the fork, grip it in my hand and turn the lsc knob to firm it up a little bit.
The fork works like its supposed to while riding.
Anyone have any idea what the cause could be?
flag jeffryiman
Posted: Sep 3, 2016 at 17:01 Quote
LooseriderHafjell wrote:
Hi guys! Thanks for the awesome info on this thread, because of it i have been able to service my marz 380cr a couple of timesSmile
But now im having some trouble with the lsc adjustment, it just keeps on spinning round and a round with out adjusting or coming to a full stop in either direction. Had to take the DBC cartridge out of the fork, grip it in my hand and turn the lsc knob to firm it up a little bit.
The fork works like its supposed to while riding.
Anyone have any idea what the cause could be?

Your LSC keeps on spinning without stop is because lower part of legs are broken (small tube LSC).
You have to open the dbs chamber, than you see clearly the problem.
(Rotate the LSC with smal wrench 7, it should be lower part of DBS came to rotate same direction)
flag LooseriderHafjell
Posted: Sep 4, 2016 at 3:28 Quote
Thank you for the reply. Figured IT out, nothing was broken. The LSC nob had just Jamed it self cause i overtorqued it.
flag staike
Posted: Sep 4, 2016 at 9:01 Quote
Has anyone tried using Fox 40 springs in a 380? I have heard they should fit in 888s, so they should fit in a 380 as well right? Wondering about dropping in a Purple/soft 40 spring which is 6.12 N/mm, right between medium and firm springs.
flag iforgot
Posted: Sep 4, 2016 at 12:08 Quote
Can someone please measure along the stanchion tube between top of seal to bottom of lower crown ?
flag rock-rod
Posted: Sep 6, 2016 at 14:45 Quote
jewpowered wrote:
rock-rod wrote:
Well i got it done. Managed to drain out the fluid and found that my fork was really low on oil. Put new 7.5w oil in measured out correctly. I put100ml in the compression/rebound leg and bled the DBC and set the oil level inside to 67mm below the top of the reservoir. I also put 250ml into the spring side leg. Now the comp/rebound knobs actually do something. If I completely close both HSR and LSR, the fork will extend very slowly. Opening the valves up one click at a time cause the fork to extend at a ever increasing rate until all the way open, there is no rebound control at all. The compression seems to be the same.

Getting the compression assembly back into it's home is a huge pain. It takes some serious force to compress everything back together.

That's not a good sign, are you saying that one click out from closed is basically fully open?

no it steps up in rebound speed. all the way closed is very slow movement and then as the knob is opened the speed increases with each click. the speed increases in correlation to opening the valve.
flag rock-rod
Posted: Sep 6, 2016 at 14:46 Quote
iforgot wrote:
Can someone please measure along the stanchion tube between top of seal to bottom of lower crown ?

i can when i get home. you want the full extension measurement?
flag iforgot
Posted: Sep 6, 2016 at 15:24 Quote
rock-rod wrote:
iforgot wrote:
Can someone please measure along the stanchion tube between top of seal to bottom of lower crown ?

i can when i get home. you want the full extension measurement?

Yes please,

ThanksSmile

Also where the lower crown is in relation to the "min" mark, (want to see how much I need to reduce my stack height to run this fork)

 


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