Marzocchi 350 NCR ti service

Author	Message

brad-cycle-direct

Posted: May 6, 2016 at 9:20	Quote
Has any body got any links how to service the 359 NCR ti fork? Or had anyone done it with a manual??? Looked everywhere but cannot find anything! Thanks ????

chocolate-thunder

O+

Posted: Jun 17, 2017 at 20:03

Quote

I kinda pieced things together from the NCR Air service video from Marzocchi, some random Marzocchi moto stuff I found, and some common sense.
I learned:
25 mL fluid is sufficient in each leg
That once you drain the cartridge, you need to fill, cycle a little, fill, cycle a little more, and so on until you are able to extend it fully without it sucking air.
That filling the cartridge is annoying, but I found out that you don't NEED to take it apart if you just want to change the oil. You can add fluid through the hole in the top of the damper that is exposed when you use a 3 mm allen to unscrew the LSC assembly (a ~4" long assembly). Add oil incrementally through that hole, and cycle so the damper does not suck air when cycling (don't cycle fully, just a little at a time so as to avoid said air sucking). Once full and the damper is fully extended, add the LSC doohickey back in (oil overflow OK), and screw it in just enough so that it barely sticks out above the surface of the lockout knob (when you place it back on) so that when you put the fork back together, screwing in the little retainer bolt to pinch the lockout knob back on pushes the adjuster in barely - no gap between the LSC assembly and the retainer bolt.
Add oil to the top of the fork (apparently - not sure if this matters as this is not a convention I am accustomed to, but Marzocchi adds to the top, so I did too.
Adding the oil to the spring side first is what they do - not sure if required, but I did. That made adding to the damper side harder as the spring side is reassembled fully before putting the DBC damper back in, so do this: do put spring side together first, then put damper in, bolt it to the bottom, and when you don't screw in the top of the damper, and instead pull on it, a 1/8" gap is exposed, just enough to allow you to add oil.
I added slick honey to the dust seals. Not sure if this was necessary or if the fork will light on fire as a result of this, but I always use the stuff and am always happy with results.
I will also add that I bought a 2016 170mm new, and it had a TON of really thick oil in the damper side - kinda almost frothy stuff. I'm not sure what that stuff was, but I'm glad I took it apart (based on my experience that Marzocchi's don't come with adequate fluid). Now, it does appear that it had plenty of fluid, and I haven't ridden it yet, but it looks like there's hope that they're shipping somewhat correctly.
Excited to ride it.

brad-cycle-direct

Posted: Jul 3, 2017 at 14:09	Quote
Cheers mate

chocolate-thunder

O+

Posted: Jul 3, 2017 at 18:28

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Update:
The "170 mm fork" that I bought is actually 160 mm. I was told by a Marzocchi service center/tuner that if it has espresso colored stanchions, it's 160 mm. No ifs, ands, or buts. In order to be capable of 170 mm travel, it requires longer stanchions, and they only made those in black.
I was also told to add slightly more oil in the damping side in order to improve mid stroke and bottom out support. They said an extra 10 mL was sufficient. They did not recommend a higher viscosity oil, though from what I know about flu dynamics, this would also improve (slow) compression (and rebound).

Shiiken

Posted: Jul 31, 2017 at 10:40	Quote
Hi there, can i service the lower legs/wipers without messing with the damper-side entirely? thank you

chocolate-thunder

O+

Posted: Aug 10, 2017 at 13:35

Quote

Yes - you should be able to undo the bolts on the bottom of the lowers, drain the fluid, pull lowers off, service seals, replace lowers, fill with correct amount of oil, bolt up, and ride. Pay attention to how much fluid comes out of the damper side and replace that much. It's hard to tell you what that number (mL) should be as the amount is 200-"what is in the damper" which no one can seem to quantify. The other leg requires 25 mL or so - the exact number escapes me.
Don't cycle the damper while the lowers are off and you'll be fine.

emf

Posted: Sep 11, 2018 at 13:01	Quote
Rebooting the thread Are you still running the Marzocchi 350? Any photos available of your DBC oil change Cheers

emf

Posted: Sep 13, 2018 at 22:57	Quote
I got this!

emf

Posted: Sep 13, 2018 at 23:02	Quote
Screw in syringe fill and pump rod with lockout off and rebound fully dialled out Fit low speed adjuster rod to 6mm depth If only I could load up a pic

emf

Posted: Sep 13, 2018 at 23:17	Quote
copy Paste in address bar http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z8/chevlick/D455F8F6-6389-463F-97D8-2F4B10DC27B1.jpg

Matty1996bell

Posted: Sep 14, 2018 at 14:55

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emf wrote:

[URL=http://s194.photobucket.com/user/chevlick/media/D455F8F6-6389-463F-97D8-2F4B10DC27B1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z8/chevlick/D455F8F6-6389-463F-97D8-2F4B10DC27B1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Hi do you care to elaborate please as I'm looking to do a damper service/ bleed tomorrow as I have lost all compression damping and it's pretty noisey! Thanks

MikeBurnsie

Posted: Sep 15, 2018 at 12:27

Quote

With the damper removed, thread out the compression adjustment till it comes out completely. It'll be a rod with a spring and o ring on it. Turn upside down, dump oil, and compress damper several times. Turn right side up, I put mine in a vise with rubber jaws just enough to hold it. compress the damper and put a small amount into where the compression adjuster goes. Cycle the damper a few times, ONLY small compressions at first, trying not to suck in to much air. You'll see the fluid get pulled into the damper, add some more, repeat, repeat, and repeat again. Eventually you'll make the compression strokes longer and longer. You'll know when the damper is full when it starts to come out the weep holes towards the top. You really can't overfill it, when installed it will balance out. When filled set compression adjuster at 6mm down as mentioned in a previous post.

emf

Posted: Dec 31, 2018 at 22:12	Quote
350 still running ace after complete tear down With no seal or Oring replacement Next yearly service Concerns are full seal kit availability And is it worth it

MikeBurnsie

Posted: Jan 1, 2019 at 15:39

Quote

emf wrote:

350 still running ace after complete tear down
With no seal or Oring replacement

Next yearly service
Concerns are full seal kit availability
And is it worth it

The SKF seals can be had easily enough, a bit pricey though. I have a set on hand if needed. ORings if needed can be sourced online with a little leg work. I buggered up an oring during a oil change and was able to find a replacement. Did you do the damper as well?

emf

Posted: Jan 1, 2019 at 17:19	Quote
Yes DBC done It makes life easy using one oil for everything regarding fork internals But then again good luck finding Spectro Gold Then frustration is undoing the foot nut ....???? on the DBC leg as it just spins until you bring in the air tools

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