DVO appreciation and support thread (AKA the Ced Thread) - Pics, ride reports and discussion

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DVO appreciation and support thread (AKA the Ced Thread) - Pics, ride reports and discussion
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flag tuckfordouble
O+
Posted: Jun 18, 2023 at 11:20 Quote
tubby1536 wrote:
Interesting. I told them about my OTT winding up a month ago and they just sent me the 3D printed dial thing. Not a word about maxima grease. Good to know.

If anyone is wondering I also printed one myself from the thingaverse file which is much nicer than the DVO one. The DVO one is printed with low resolution and is not designed with a pinch bolt. It is held on by friction. Has not fallen off yet but I am fully expecting to lose it at some point. It cost me all of $2 to print one at the local library and a couple bucks for the nut and bolt.

They also sent me one a while ago. It snapped while I was taking it off to service my fork and now there's a hunk of plastic stuck in my OTT adjuster.

Good to know about the thingyverse one. I'll have to go print myself a new one because this OTT winding is driving me crazy.
flag mrliver
Posted: Jun 18, 2023 at 12:49 Quote
mammal wrote:
mrliver wrote:
Lololmalol wrote:
That lower oring doesn’t seal air, it just stops the aircan from being able to be pulled down. You can actually ride the shock without it on

Stab it with a pick and get on with it

If I can ride without it, why does it exist? What's its purpose? Frustrate home mechanics? I'm skeptical of this comment...

It's there for the exact reason he said it's there. He means you can be a bit rough with it while removing it. If you want to reuse it, just make sure it's still circular/not completely split. It's just there to keep the air an from sliding off.

Okay, cool.
flag GenesiZ
Posted: Jun 25, 2023 at 23:56 Quote
Advice/tips needed for brakebumps at 'high' speed:

Two weeks ago I was in a bikepark in Austria (Saalbach/Leogang) and it was the first time I rode hard downhill with a lot of brakebumps. I live in the flat Netherlands, so the the brakebumps we have are max 5-6 meters long before a turn and you don't have that much of speed.

The brakebumps were that nasty that I couldn't focus on the jumps and had to slow down to see them. The problem then is that the speed is to low to clear the tables.

I ride a Nukeproof Mega 290 with a Topaz T3 at 160mm and a Diamond D1 at 160mm. The rear was doing his work perfect, but the front lacked confidence.

Setup for my 97kg incl. gear / 113kg with bike:
130 PSI
0 HSC
1-3 LSC (depends on the trail)
Full OTT (maximum plushness)
Rebound:10 turns from closed.

Can someone give me some advice on what to change/try to fix this problem (if it's even possible). Thanks!

photo
flag tubby1536
Posted: Jun 26, 2023 at 6:54 Quote
GenesiZ wrote:
Advice/tips needed for brakebumps at 'high' speed:

Two weeks ago I was in a bikepark in Austria (Saalbach/Leogang) and it was the first time I rode hard downhill with a lot of brakebumps. I live in the flat Netherlands, so the the brakebumps we have are max 5-6 meters long before a turn and you don't have that much of speed.

The brakebumps were that nasty that I couldn't focus on the jumps and had to slow down to see them. The problem then is that the speed is to low to clear the tables.

I ride a Nukeproof Mega 290 with a Topaz T3 at 160mm and a Diamond D1 at 160mm. The rear was doing his work perfect, but the front lacked confidence.

Setup for my 97kg incl. gear / 113kg with bike:
130 PSI
0 HSC
1-3 LSC (depends on the trail)
Full OTT (maximum plushness)
Rebound:10 turns from closed.

Can someone give me some advice on what to change/try to fix this problem (if it's even possible). Thanks!

photo

Here are my thoughts. i am not expert so take this with a grain of salt. I am just regurgitating what I have read on suspension set up and want to see if this aligns with other suggestions.

This maybe obvious but it will help if you can ride the same section multiple times and only change one setting at a time.

Two things might be happening. Either the rebound is too slow and the fork is not able to recover in time for the next hit and is "packing up". Or the spring rate and/or damping is too high and the fork is not able to soak up the bumps as you want. You are running 0 HSC so probably not a damping issue.

I would start with the rebound first. Experiment with speeding it up and see how that goes.

If that does not work, then I would look at spring rate. This include the OTT setting. If you are never using full travel then you may be able to go down in psi. Keep in mind if you drop PSI you will want to speed up rebound as well. You could also experiment with lowering the OTT setting. It may be pulling you through the first 3rd of travel too easily and that is making these pumps feel harsh. I am a lot lighter than you but I feel if I go past a certain OTT is stops feeling plush and starts getting harsher overall as it ramps up quicker.
flag mammal
O+
Posted: Jun 26, 2023 at 8:08 Quote
GenesiZ wrote:
Advice/tips needed for brakebumps at 'high' speed...

Part of the issue is probably that you're riding a Diamond in a fast/rough bike park setting. It's a good fork, but a little flexy. The more a fork flexes, the more it will bind instead of smoothly eating bumps.

Your air pressure seems in the right range for the Diamond, and OTT setting seems OK, but you could try reducing OTT by one or two turns. If the OTT is too high for your chosen air spring psi, it will ride too low in it's travel, and feel a bit harsh. OTT needs to be well balanced with your chosen psi, because it will also feel harsh if you're not using enough OTT (it will sit high in it's travel, but not feel plush).

I'd also suggest some HSC, but I don't that won't help the fork feel better through fast chatter bumps, it's more for control during sharp/hard hits.

A fresh lowers service is probably the best thing you can do for this type of situation. Make sure everything down there is very well lubricated, so it can move efficiently.
flag GenesiZ
Posted: Jun 27, 2023 at 0:59 Quote
Thanks a lot guys! I'll be back in Austria in a month, so I'll try some options and will give the fork a service before heading there.

Otherwise it's time to get an Onyx tup
flag GenesiZ
Posted: Jul 10, 2023 at 14:22 Quote
This evening I screwed up ☹️ I broke a part from the bladder and now I can't set the high speed compression anymore.

I tried to service the fork to see if I could fix the brake bump problem I posted two weeks ago.

While taking the bladder apart because it collapsed I hold the wrong part to loosen the bolt and the small 'nut' on top to set the HSC came loose from the axle.

I see it's only possible to buy the complete bladder for an amazingly high price. Does anyone have a broken Diamond D1 2019 lying in the parts bin from who I can buy only this small part? Preferably Europe.

I need the axle below number 16.

photo
flag mammal
O+
Posted: Jul 10, 2023 at 14:37 Quote
GenesiZ wrote:
This evening I screwed up ☹️ I broke a part from the bladder and now I can't set the high speed compression anymore.

I tried to service the fork to see if I could fix the brake bump problem I posted two weeks ago.

While taking the bladder apart because it collapsed I hold the wrong part to loosen the bolt and the small 'nut' on top to set the HSC came loose from the axle.

I see it's only possible to buy the complete bladder for an amazingly high price. Does anyone have a broken Diamond D1 2019 lying in the parts bin from who I can buy only this small part? Preferably Europe.

I need the axle below number 16.

photo

I'd suggest the same thing as DVO New Zealand suggested on your Facebook post today... try your local distributer or authorized service center. My local service center (Suspension Werx) stocks all sorts of parts that aren't listed on DVO's website.

For future servicing of your Diamond Bladder, consult this video. It was made by a guy who was a member of the MTBR Ibis Rimpo AF forum, and it shows how to reset the deflated bladder (you don't need to loosen any nuts). He covers disassembling the damper, resetting the bladder, bleeding the damper, and adding oil to the lowers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjRzcndEDvY
flag GenesiZ
Posted: Jul 11, 2023 at 2:44 Quote
Thanks for the video! I'm going to look at it.

I've emailed seven shops this morning, let's hope someone got the part.
flag GenesiZ
Posted: Jul 12, 2023 at 0:28 Quote
Long live DVO!

They got the part and it's coming my way with a fresh bladder mounted. At the moment I can use the fork as wanted, except I can't change the HSC without taking the unit out of the fork. I can live with that for the moment Big Grin
flag tubby1536
Posted: Jul 22, 2023 at 8:07 Quote
Question for anyone that has done a damper service on a diamond. I am at the first bleeding step where I add 80cc of oil and cycle the damper rod with the rebound closed. It seems no matter how much I cycle there are constant bubbles coming up and I hear a squelchy sound. It does not appear to be leaking at the seal(which is new). Am I just being impatient and need to keep cycling indefinitely until no bubbles? It has always made a noise during rebound so not sure if that is a problem or not.
flag mammal
O+
Posted: Jul 22, 2023 at 9:15 Quote
tubby1536 wrote:
Question for anyone that has done a damper service on a diamond. I am at the first bleeding step where I add 80cc of oil and cycle the damper rod with the rebound closed. It seems no matter how much I cycle there are constant bubbles coming up and I hear a squelchy sound. It does not appear to be leaking at the seal(which is new). Am I just being impatient and need to keep cycling indefinitely until no bubbles? It has always made a noise during rebound so not sure if that is a problem or not.
Sorry, this is with the damper/bladder removed, and just purging the air out of the oil bath? The noise isn't an issue, with the rebound closed, it going to make some noise. The bubbles should stop fairly soon though. I don't recall having much air trapped at all during that process, more so when the damper is reinstalled during the final bleed. I wouldn't think it would be sucking air through the shaft seal below, considering the top is open... Strange one. Maybe try some fresh oil? Was the oil shaken up before you put it in?
flag tubby1536
Posted: Jul 22, 2023 at 14:53 Quote
That's right with no bladder installed. I left it for a bit to see if any air would migrate up. No air in oil that went in fresh so did not bother changing it. If I cycle slowly then no air. If I move fast enough to make the noise bubbles come up.

I figured I would try and move forward after at least having no air when cycling slowly to see how it goes. After a messy time with my makeshift funnel it was similar with the bladder assembly in place.

The only thing I can think of is the air is coming in from the shaft seal. Maybe it was bad or maybe I damaged it pushing on the shaft. It was certainly a tight fit.

I don't have another seal to try so I sealed it up and put the fork back together. Seems fine up and down the street. We'll see how it does on a real ride tomorrow. I will be sending if off to the experts if it starts feeling off.
flag mammal
O+
Posted: Jul 22, 2023 at 15:22 Quote
Good luck! Yeah gotta be air from the shaft end, you'd think.
flag tubby1536
Posted: Sep 19, 2023 at 16:39 Quote
I enjoyed learning how to 3D print with the OTT adjuster lock file shared by another user on this thread. After making a mess rebuilding my diamond and wanting to learn more on 3D print and design I took a shot at CAD and designed a bleed funnel/cup

It came out great. Cost $0.90 to print at the local library. I did have to file the hex very slightly to get it on. But probably for the best as there is no risk of it falling out. I have not used it for an actual bleed yet and expect I will still need to seal it to the fork somehow. Might try making a rubber gasket and glue it to the bottom.

I put the file up on Thingaverse for anyone to use.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6226014

3d printed bleed cup
3d printed bleed cup

3d printed bleed cup
3d printed bleed cup

3d printed bleed cup
3d printed bleed cup

 


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