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Converting to 1x

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Converting to 1x

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Posted: Feb 7, 2018 at 19:38 Quote
I currently ride an entry level cannondale with a threaded bottom bracket, I have the exact size if it is needed, but I was wondering if I can still convert to a 1x drivetrain and kicking out the low end 8x3 I have now, I know all the high end drivetrains have press fit BB’s so I was wondering if this is possible,, any suggestions are appreciated

Posted: Feb 7, 2018 at 19:48 Quote
Gthom003 wrote:
I currently ride an entry level cannondale with a threaded bottom bracket, I have the exact size if it is needed, but I was wondering if I can still convert to a 1x drivetrain and kicking out the low end 8x3 I have now, I know all the high end drivetrains have press fit BB’s so I was wondering if this is possible,, any suggestions are appreciated
I thought most 1x (direct mount) crank/BB sets are available threaded, what make/model are you looking at?

Posted: Feb 7, 2018 at 20:14 Quote
brianl wrote:
Gthom003 wrote:
I currently ride an entry level cannondale with a threaded bottom bracket, I have the exact size if it is needed, but I was wondering if I can still convert to a 1x drivetrain and kicking out the low end 8x3 I have now, I know all the high end drivetrains have press fit BB’s so I was wondering if this is possible,, any suggestions are appreciated
I thought most 1x (direct mount) crank/BB sets are available threaded, what make/model are you looking at?
Open to cranks and BB’s preferably raceface or shimano my size bottom bracket now is a threaded 73mm, current BB is a “Tange LN 3912”

Posted: Feb 8, 2018 at 0:36 Quote
It will be fine. you might need a new BB, cranks, chain ring, cassette, shifter and dérailleur though. It will probably be fine just to keep your cranks, run the middle ring, put a bash guard on the outer spider and change the cassette, D and shifter though. Go to a shamano 11 speed, 11 and 12 speed sram require and XD driver which would require changing your rear hub.

Posted: Feb 8, 2018 at 5:34 Quote
ntd14 wrote:
It will be fine. you might need a new BB, cranks, chain ring, cassette, shifter and dérailleur though. It will probably be fine just to keep your cranks, run the middle ring, put a bash guard on the outer spider and change the cassette, D and shifter though. Go to a shamano 11 speed, 11 and 12 speed sram require and XD driver which would require changing your rear hub.
Thank you I was planning on buying a new entire drivetrain anyway

Posted: Feb 9, 2018 at 8:18 Quote
You could try out the new SRAM dub system. They have a BB for every type of bike frame. This would be the simplest solution plus you’ll have more chainring options. Also if you swap frames you only need to buy a new BB instead of a whole new drive train. The GX cranks are very reasonable price point too

Posted: Feb 10, 2018 at 6:56 Quote
Just make sure you get a gxp crank for a sram gruppo, any shimano crank is 24mm or the race face aeffect (I think) is 24mm. If you have a crankset that has a 104bcd chainring (as most 3x cranks do) you can save 150$ or so and just get a narrow wide chainring. You can get down to a 30t ring for 104 bcd and smaller for the 64 bcd pattern of the inner ring but you will have a ratty chainline for all but climbing.
The dub system will work but sram is notoriously slow on their rollouts of their announced new kit. You can run a 30mm crank but the bb bearings have a short lifespan. I have heard but not seen that the 30mm bsa bb fail at the cup thread interface so take that for what it is worth.

Posted: Feb 10, 2018 at 13:49 Quote
Why not get something like a Shimano SLX/XT 1 x 10 drive train kit? Less than $500 and comes with all you need. Gear kits are even cheaper as they don't include the crank.

O+
Posted: Feb 11, 2018 at 5:45 Quote
My old Vitus was converted to 1x using the original cranks and that had a square tapered (threaded) BB.

Some higher end bikes come with threaded BBs too, especially if they are designed/developed in muddy countries such as the UK!

Posted: Feb 12, 2018 at 1:32 Quote
Bb and Crank has nothing to do with going 1x. Threaded octalink square taper pf doesn't matter. Any Mtb crank can be 1x. If its a 3 ring Crankset put a bash guard ring in place of the large ring. A new 1X Narrow wide on the middle ring mount and just file of or ignore the small ring mounts.
You could even leave the small ring on and leave it there for emergency bail out legs buggered moments. If your ever struggling on a long long hard climb hop off put the chain on the small ring by hand and spin up the hill in ease. Stick it back on the Narrow wide ring when at the top. Some racers do that.
Will need to change the cassette, chain and shifter to 10 or 11spd to get any decent usable gear range. 11 spd slx is the best bang for buck drive train.
Count yourself lucky you have threaded bb most reliable, versatile easy to work on. pf suck balls pf is just a cost saving exercise by manufacturers. Best suggestion never buy a bike with one.

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