BMX brake (gyro) hard to press

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BMX brake (gyro) hard to press
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Posted: Jun 4, 2019 at 19:29 Quote
I have purchased a slightly used 2017 GT Slammer BMX for my son. The BMX is fine, no visible signs of use, tires are almost new, all complete. The only problem is that the rear brake lever is very hard to press for my 11 year old son. I can press it and lock the brakes but he cannot so the brake is pretty much useless. I have tried to do some adjustments, checked cables, etc and I do not see anything obviously wrong with the brake system. All appears to be fine. Is the gyro system significantly harder to press than single cable system? Any recommendation what else to check or adjust?

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 22:09 Quote
Lube the cables real well, thats the biggest thing.. letting off some of the tension on the brake springs (990/vbrake) will also help

Gyros are all about balance, if the gyro itself is flip flopping when you turn the bars its out of balance, same with a 990 brake, of it pulls more on one side the springs are out of balance

O+
Posted: Jul 17, 2019 at 9:42 Quote
Giros are kind of a pain to deal with and are definitely going to have a bit more friction than a straight cable. If it were me or my kid, I'd just ditch the giro and replace it with a linear straight cable like this one

Posted: Jul 29, 2019 at 21:29 Quote
If you want to still have a gyro maybe try a dual rear cable set up. SNAFU Astroglide Dual (London Mod) Lower Cable at https://www.planetbmx.com/shop/snafu-astroglide-london-mod-lower-cable.html has everything youd need for $15

photo

Posted: Aug 1, 2019 at 8:09 Quote
Buy some grease like Phil woods. Get triflow.

Any of the metal inner you can get access top coat with grease when you put the housing back on add triflow.

Once everything is lived to shit you can start reducing spring tension on the arms themselves.

A lot of people set brakes up with more tension then needed. On my last bike I had the arms finger tightened, that requires a bit of work though. Oversized housing or derailer inner wires and a dual cable set up.

Normally you want the gyro to float but it’s easier to have it sit on the lower tabs. That said if you have it sit just a lil above the lower tabs when setting up its super easy to check for even cable tension. Just turn the bars the gyro shouldn’t flop around at all, it should stay level throughout its entire movement. Sitting the gyro on the lower tabs means you don’t have to get them as perfect.

Also double check the lever itself at the bushing. Loosen that off slightly if need be and add triflow if needed.

Could also be the cables are bent too hard.

Best bet is buy a snafu mobeus gyro. A single London mod and a snafu cable plus two v brake noodles. Get an odyssey m2 lever. Use the second London mod with the barrels removed as a bolt on dual cable guide. V brake noodles at the bends. Standard brake housing behind the noodles. Use the snafu bolt on dual cable guide with the barrels at the brake end.

Stock gyro components suck usually.

Like 30$ for the mobeus

15 for the cable

4$ for the noodles

30-40$ for the lever with an upper cable.

5$ for a London mod.

Later on you could add an upgraded set of calipers and have a full pro level set up.

Snafu mobeus is the best gyro for the money. Better than the odyssey unless you need the knarps or ride flatland.

Snafu lowers plus a London mod is the cheapest cleanest dual lower set up. V brake noodles deffs help a lot and look nice.

Odyssey m2 uppers are the best 5$ a replacement cable. Looks awesome and prevents bent barrel adjusters since it’s oversized and it still works with straight cables.

Can also be done incrementally. Lower cables and lever would be my first grab.

Posted: Aug 1, 2019 at 8:13 Quote
gibspaulding wrote:
Giros are kind of a pain to deal with and are definitely going to have a bit more friction than a straight cable. If it were me or my kid, I'd just ditch the giro and replace it with a linear straight cable like this one

Depends gyros can actually have less friction than a straight cable.

Linear cables aren’t as smooth as standard housing. Longer straight cable runs also add friction.

Dual lower and upper cable can beat a straight cable plus has direct pull.

Use Teflon coated derailer inners for the lowers and v brake noodles for the bends. Or oversized non linear housing with standard or derailer inners. Coat the inners in grease than triflow.

Does require more set up though.

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