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Sram code rsc or magura mt7?

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Sram code rsc or magura mt7?

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flag Bikerdude137
Posted: May 1, 2020 at 18:01 Quote
I have a norco aurum hsp and it comes with code r's. I don't have much against them but i feel like i need more power
(i have magura trail sports on another bike so that may be why)
I also would like pad contact adjustment because i always feel my brakes don't bite how i want them too

Hope you guys have some recommendations (it doesn't necessarily have to be either as long as it's for downhill and mostly fit what i said)

Thanks!
flag kfergiez
O+
Posted: May 2, 2020 at 20:32 Quote
I have never used the matura, but I DO have Code RSC on my DH bike.

The RSC has great contact and reach adjustment, but the best part about them is the modulation. Again, not knowing anything about the marguras, I don't know how they compare, but I've never need more power than the Code RCSs I have.
flag Ploutre
Posted: May 3, 2020 at 9:41 Quote
Power will roughly be the same on the Code R and RSC, but the lever feel will be miles better on hte RSC. That said, a good bleed, caliper setup and pad adjustment do wonders on even basic Code Rs.

The MT7 will have more power than the Code RSC, probably less modulation aswell. Lever feel is weird, from aweful with the basic levers to godly with the super expensive HC3 (and ok with the HC levers). One thing to consider, the pads usually run very close to the rotors, and that might become a problem if your rotor has even a slight wobble.

Bleeding both is fine, pads prices are roughly the same. The Magura levers will require careful use of the T25 torx key, as the bleed port is made of plastic (2 finger tight, no more), and the master cylinder body is literally plastic with a bit of carbon fibers in it. The result is that if you overtighten it on the handlebars and have a crash, you might just destroy the master cylinder ... Parts are available, and the MT5 master cylinder is pretty much the same as the MT7 (just not in weight, using less expensive and heavier material)

All in all, I'd probably try to fix the Code R, try different pads (the Trickstuff ones are awesome for that, they don't last very long but have ton of power compared to stock pads), but most importantly, a good setup. By that I mean that the caliper is properly in line with the rotor (may take some time, but it does make a difference on "long" calipers like most 4-pistons calipers), and then once the pads are installed, the pistons are pushed out as far as they'll go: that will give you a very small and solid lever throw.
flag Loki87
Posted: May 3, 2020 at 15:44 Quote
Ploutre wrote:
Power will roughly be the same on the Code R and RSC, but the lever feel will be miles better on hte RSC. That said, a good bleed, caliper setup and pad adjustment do wonders on even basic Code Rs.

The MT7 will have more power than the Code RSC, probably less modulation aswell. Lever feel is weird, from aweful with the basic levers to godly with the super expensive HC3 (and ok with the HC levers). One thing to consider, the pads usually run very close to the rotors, and that might become a problem if your rotor has even a slight wobble.

Bleeding both is fine, pads prices are roughly the same. The Magura levers will require careful use of the T25 torx key, as the bleed port is made of plastic (2 finger tight, no more), and the master cylinder body is literally plastic with a bit of carbon fibers in it. The result is that if you overtighten it on the handlebars and have a crash, you might just destroy the master cylinder ... Parts are available, and the MT5 master cylinder is pretty much the same as the MT7 (just not in weight, using less expensive and heavier material)

All in all, I'd probably try to fix the Code R, try different pads (the Trickstuff ones are awesome for that, they don't last very long but have ton of power compared to stock pads), but most importantly, a good setup. By that I mean that the caliper is properly in line with the rotor (may take some time, but it does make a difference on "long" calipers like most 4-pistons calipers), and then once the pads are installed, the pistons are pushed out as far as they'll go: that will give you a very small and solid lever throw.

Good summary.
May i add, the MT7 and MT5 have (in my opinion) very good modulation. They do feel like Maguras though. They don´t have a super hard bitepoint and feel a little spongy, BUT if you can get along with them i´d say it´s pretty hard to beat their modulation.
Pad life in my experience is extremely good with the basic Magura pads. I have yet to find brakes/pads with better wear characteristics.
I´ve done a lot of full runs in Schladming and Saalbach (~8-15min of vertical) and they haven´t failed me yet.
If at any point you feel like going the Magura route, consider the MT5. They can be had dirt cheap in various german online shops and the MT5 lever is arguably just as good as the HC lever. I have MT7 with HC lever on my dh bike and MT5 on the enduro and if i had to get new brakes for the dh bike i´d most likely just buy MT5s and be done with it.
Also, my MT7 are going into their 7th downhill season with only a few quick bleeds, not even a proper bleed done to them yet. No problems whatsoever so far. YMMV, but i´m very pleased with them.
flag friendlyfoe
Posted: May 3, 2020 at 23:15 Quote
I'm ordering a set of MT5's this week as they should be back in stock. I'm assuming the stock performance pads will have enough bite for me (they have enough for tippie) but there is always the race option if you want something that's going to slam on.

If money was no object it would be hope all the way. I've never ridden them, only had a pull on the levers, but it's the closest thing I've felt to the modulation of a brembo master cylinder on the moto side.
flag Bikerdude137
Posted: May 5, 2020 at 16:32 Quote
Thanks

I have a set of magura mt trail sports on my trail bike and i like the lever feel on those so i think i will be okay with that

Thanks again!
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