Converting Clash for Barspins

PB Forum :: Freeride & Slopestyle
Converting Clash for Barspins
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Posted: Mar 16, 2021 at 11:04 Quote
Just preordered my clash. Looking to make it barspinnable. Does anybody have any experience with making a barspinnable bike?

Posted: Mar 16, 2021 at 16:58 Quote
I trimmed my bars down to 750 and removed the front brake on my Jeffsy, that's all I needed to do. If your brake line is shorter, you should get enough line to make it around one rotation and then some. Same goes for the shift cable and housing. Other than that and maybe removing the dropper post, you should be good.

Posted: Mar 16, 2021 at 18:54 Quote
FloridaHasMTBToo wrote:
I trimmed my bars down to 750 and removed the front brake on my Jeffsy, that's all I needed to do. If your brake line is shorter, you should get enough line to make it around one rotation and then some. Same goes for the shift cable and housing. Other than that and maybe removing the dropper post, you should be good.
You did all that? jeez. I was going to cut the star nut or get a hollow screw so I still have a front brake and make the rest of the cables really long.

FL
Posted: Mar 17, 2021 at 17:24 Quote
I mounted my shifter to the downtube on my range, using the threaded hole previously used for shifter and dropper external routing. lost the dropper, cut bars to 710, and have enough slack in the rear brake for 2-3 spins. hoping to get the front brake routed thru the headset this season, but last season i was just pulling the brake off when i wanted to do them.

Posted: Mar 17, 2021 at 18:25 Quote
Johnoble wrote:
I mounted my shifter to the downtube on my range, using the threaded hole previously used for shifter and dropper external routing. lost the dropper, cut bars to 710, and have enough slack in the rear brake for 2-3 spins. hoping to get the front brake routed thru the headset this season, but last season i was just pulling the brake off when i wanted to do them.
I found a hollow starnut screw for sale https://www.jensonusa.com/Aheadset-Hollow-Top-CapStarnut-Assembly-1-18-Hollow-Top-Cap-Bolt-Starnut?pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_us&pt_keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0caCBhCIARIsAGAfuMz2zdeJ1-6-2dy47CaJJZmWSPjm6OgWVdumH_htjpUXz83WyMK7zbMaAkZ4EALw_wcB

Posted: May 6, 2021 at 13:47 Quote
I’m rocking the bmx starnut and hollow bolt in my clash. I just run the rear brake and the shifter cable long ( there’s no where to mount the shifter on the frame really)

Have my bars cut to 760 so it’s still stable while on the trails. ( I learnt bees with 780 , but I like it a little more narrow )

Can’t post pics on here but @jdorrett on ig you can see the build

Posted: May 6, 2021 at 18:11 Quote
jamesdorrett wrote:
I’m rocking the bmx starnut and hollow bolt in my clash. I just run the rear brake and the shifter cable long ( there’s no where to mount the shifter on the frame really)

Have my bars cut to 760 so it’s still stable while on the trails. ( I learnt bees with 780 , but I like it a little more narrow )

Can’t post pics on here but @jdorrett on ig you can see the build
I just bought the hollow starnut scew. As soon as I get it, I'll prolly route the front brake through there and route everything else really long. Any tips for organizing the cable so it doesn't shoot out every time the bars go around?

Posted: May 6, 2021 at 21:04 Quote
I just use electrical tape for the rear brake and shifter cable so they’re nice and even ( if I had the heat wrap I’d use that )

I always leave it wrapped once kinda like a DJ, but be warned your going to have really clunky shifting as long as you run this set up

Posted: May 7, 2021 at 6:31 Quote
jamesdorrett wrote:
I just use electrical tape for the rear brake and shifter cable so they’re nice and even ( if I had the heat wrap I’d use that )

I always leave it wrapped once kinda like a DJ, but be warned your going to have really clunky shifting as long as you run this set up
Ah. Shifting is for weaklings. Hopefully I have money to run ss setup soon.

Posted: May 7, 2021 at 6:47 Quote
DaFreerider44 wrote:
jamesdorrett wrote:
I just use electrical tape for the rear brake and shifter cable so they’re nice and even ( if I had the heat wrap I’d use that )

I always leave it wrapped once kinda like a DJ, but be warned your going to have really clunky shifting as long as you run this set up
Ah. Shifting is for weaklings. Hopefully I have money to run ss setup soon.

Should also mention I ripped my dropper out and just have a long seat post I can raise it for some reason I ever had to climb

Posted: May 7, 2021 at 8:24 Quote
Did you cut your seat at all to give it more room for the bars to spin?

Posted: May 7, 2021 at 8:54 Quote
I have a stupid long tt length so I didn't have to cut the seat along with trimmed bars. My guess is if you want decently wide bars, you might need to trim the seat.

Posted: May 7, 2021 at 9:06 Quote
What length are your bars? Just out of curiosity. School has officially become MTB/car research time

Posted: May 7, 2021 at 9:10 Quote
For barspins I swap over to 750mm with 15mm rise. I also have dedicated my school time to watching bmx, mtb, etc. Virtual school sucks.

Posted: May 7, 2021 at 9:12 Quote
I'm not even virtual and I'm still not doing anything. I'm literally in the middle of an AP Enviro test. I'm really hoping to get Tailwhips on the clash.

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