YT Jeffsy Core 2 or Canyon Spectral AL 6

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YT Jeffsy Core 2 or Canyon Spectral AL 6
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Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 6:34 Quote
So im looking for my first full suspension bike and have filtered it down to either YT Jeffsy Core 2 or Canyon Spectral AL 6. They seem rather similar in geo and weight so the question is what to choose? Does any aspect weigh over to any of them?
My home trails are rather flat so which of these bikes peddles best?
Size wise Im (190cm) 6'2.8 and inseam (91cm) 35.8". The recommendations for me are XL on Jeffsy and L on Spectral.
The question is if I could size up on both or any of them? I would like just a little longer top tube compared to my current HT which is at 637mm, and at the recommended sizes I get like exactly the same as on my current HT (or even a bit shorter on the Spectral (630mm).

Any reasoning for any of the bikes are appreciated.

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 7:22 Quote
Do they sell the Spectral AL 6 anymore? You're probably going to have to go to the CF 7.

As far as geometry goes, basically only look at reach, stack, chainstay, and HTA. Top tube length really doesn't mean much because a different bike design can have a longer or shorter top tube length given the exact same reach, make sense?

The YT looks to have a sizing that can fit you better than the canyon, but the stack is a bit low. Personal preference there, and easily fixed with taller rise bars.

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 8:35 Quote
CSdirt wrote:
Do they sell the Spectral AL 6 anymore? You're probably going to have to go to the CF 7.

As far as geometry goes, basically only look at reach, stack, chainstay, and HTA. Top tube length really doesn't mean much because a different bike design can have a longer or shorter top tube length given the exact same reach, make sense?

The YT looks to have a sizing that can fit you better than the canyon, but the stack is a bit low. Personal preference there, and easily fixed with taller rise bars.

Yes top tube length is not felt on the downhill, but it is on the climbs and in the saddle, what stem length does your hardtail have? It is arguably one of the more important features when finding the correct stem length. Also given your 6'3, I think you should look at maybe the XL of the Spectral and XXL of the Yt. I ride a long L at 5'10 and it feels perfect.

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 9:30 Quote
Kidklayko wrote:
CSdirt wrote:
Do they sell the Spectral AL 6 anymore? You're probably going to have to go to the CF 7.

As far as geometry goes, basically only look at reach, stack, chainstay, and HTA. Top tube length really doesn't mean much because a different bike design can have a longer or shorter top tube length given the exact same reach, make sense?

The YT looks to have a sizing that can fit you better than the canyon, but the stack is a bit low. Personal preference there, and easily fixed with taller rise bars.

Yes top tube length is not felt on the downhill, but it is on the climbs and in the saddle, what stem length does your hardtail have? It is arguably one of the more important features when finding the correct stem length. Also given your 6'3, I think you should look at maybe the XL of the Spectral and XXL of the Yt. I ride a long L at 5'10 and it feels perfect.

I’d have to disagree, the L spectral and XL jeffsy wild be mint. I’m 6’ even and I’d be looking at the M spectral and L jeffsy.

I’d lean more towards the spectral 5 rather than the spectral 6 or the jeffsy. The 5 is cheaper and has a better spec than the 6 and jeffsy core 2. On the jeffsy I’d want a 2 degree angleset to make the bike descend better because of how steep the head angle is, and swap the brakes to something more powerful.

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 9:40 Quote
It's all about personally preference, if you want high-speed stability get a bigger bike, if you want better maunevarability get a smaller bike.

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 10:08 Quote
CSdirt wrote:
Do they sell the Spectral AL 6 anymore? You're probably going to have to go to the CF 7.

As far as geometry goes, basically only look at reach, stack, chainstay, and HTA. Top tube length really doesn't mean much because a different bike design can have a longer or shorter top tube length given the exact same reach, make sense?

The YT looks to have a sizing that can fit you better than the canyon, but the stack is a bit low. Personal preference there, and easily fixed with taller rise bars.

Yep, they recently released the AL version of the 29 Spectral so they sell AL 6. Perhaps I missed mention 29.

About geo, I pedal seated a lot also that is why Im looking at effective top tube. Chainstay and HTA I have grasped but stack Im not sure how to think about really. And about reach, can you have too much reach as long as your top tube is not too long? Im thinking I want as much reach I can as long as everything else is within range. Perhaps Im thinking backwards. Smile

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 10:11 Quote
Kidklayko wrote:
CSdirt wrote:
Do they sell the Spectral AL 6 anymore? You're probably going to have to go to the CF 7.

As far as geometry goes, basically only look at reach, stack, chainstay, and HTA. Top tube length really doesn't mean much because a different bike design can have a longer or shorter top tube length given the exact same reach, make sense?

The YT looks to have a sizing that can fit you better than the canyon, but the stack is a bit low. Personal preference there, and easily fixed with taller rise bars.

Yes top tube length is not felt on the downhill, but it is on the climbs and in the saddle, what stem length does your hardtail have? It is arguably one of the more important features when finding the correct stem length. Also given your 6'3, I think you should look at maybe the XL of the Spectral and XXL of the Yt. I ride a long L at 5'10 and it feels perfect.

HT stem length is 40mm. Yes Im leaning towards sizing up to get better reach measurement, that would increase ETT about 23mm from my HT which I THINK would work.

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 10:27 Quote
TheSlayer99 wrote:
Kidklayko wrote:
CSdirt wrote:
Do they sell the Spectral AL 6 anymore? You're probably going to have to go to the CF 7.

As far as geometry goes, basically only look at reach, stack, chainstay, and HTA. Top tube length really doesn't mean much because a different bike design can have a longer or shorter top tube length given the exact same reach, make sense?

The YT looks to have a sizing that can fit you better than the canyon, but the stack is a bit low. Personal preference there, and easily fixed with taller rise bars.

Yes top tube length is not felt on the downhill, but it is on the climbs and in the saddle, what stem length does your hardtail have? It is arguably one of the more important features when finding the correct stem length. Also given your 6'3, I think you should look at maybe the XL of the Spectral and XXL of the Yt. I ride a long L at 5'10 and it feels perfect.

I’d have to disagree, the L spectral and XL jeffsy wild be mint. I’m 6’ even and I’d be looking at the M spectral and L jeffsy.

I’d lean more towards the spectral 5 rather than the spectral 6 or the jeffsy. The 5 is cheaper and has a better spec than the 6 and jeffsy core 2. On the jeffsy I’d want a 2 degree angleset to make the bike descend better because of how steep the head angle is, and swap the brakes to something more powerful.

Im looking at the 6 instead of 5 because of the 1.6 pounds weight difference. 35.2lbs for the 5 just sounds so heavy.
I will pedal and climb a lot (home trails), but also want to develop skills for more routier descents as I enjoy that more. So Im trying to find that imagenary bike that can do it all without going up in price for carbon :-)

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 10:59 Quote
Stack is in short the height your bars will be at, but it is a fixed value. I know that's not the correct terms. this is highly adjustable with less or more stem spacers and higher rise bars, except stem spacers can shorten reach. Higher stack will be better for steep terrain, and often it can take stress off your lower back, if you have that issue. However with a lower stack you will get better pedaling efficiency, but the bike will not as good for steep terrain. It's all about personal preference. I've looked at both bikes, I think from a geometry standpoint they are actually pretty similar, though the canyon is a degree slacker. Based on reviews There both horst links but I heard the Canyon is slightly better climber, like a transition. YT's are known to have not the best pedaling efficiency. Just what I've heard! Don't get mad! The Canyon seems like it might have slightly better value, no components stick at as bad on either of the bikes except for the G2s on the Yt. Bikes like these deserve codes.

Remeber reach is a measurement felt only when you standup out of the saddle. It is a straight line drawn for the bb up, then across to center of the headtube. Top tube is felt when you sit down pedaling. It's a measurement from the saddle to the center of the headtube. But with the new advent of steep seat tube angles we can maintain the same top tube, with a long reach. For example, a bike with a 77˚ Seat tube angle and a 490mm reach will have a top tube of about 640mm. But a bike with a older 73˚ seat tube angle and a 490mm reach will have a top tube larger than 670mm. So steeper seat tube angles have also increased front load and decreased a linklihood of looping out. Top tube lengths have gotten longer over the years though, but stems have gotten shorter, so it's worked.

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 11:05 Quote
If your looking at larger bikes you can always put a shorter stem on them, and remove some stem spacers, and slam your seat forward, For reference, I'm 5'10 1/2 I ride a 2021 Ibis Ripmo which has a 475mm reach, and 632mm Top tube, I use a 42mm Stem, I have 15mm of spacers below the stem and 35mm rise bars. The stack height is 628mm.

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 11:15 Quote
[Quote="TMA-1"]
CSdirt wrote:

About geo, I pedal seated a lot also that is why Im looking at effective top tube. Chainstay and HTA I have grasped but stack Im not sure how to think about really. And about reach, can you have too much reach as long as your top tube is not too long? Im thinking I want as much reach I can as long as everything else is within range. Perhaps Im thinking backwards. Smile

Right, but ETT length is not really telling you how a bike will ride. The length of a top tube can be manipulated by other factors like seat tube angle, seat height, seat position, and reach.

For example, lets take reach out the equation and only look at ETT. Now lets say a bike has the perfect ETT number for you, score right? well maybe not, if that ETT was achieved by a relatively slacker STA then your seated weight is going to be very rearward and bike will want to lift front wheel more during climbing. Not great. Getting the idea here?

Read this article. Your questions will be answered.

https://www.vitalmtb.com/features/Modern-Mountain-Bike-Geometry-Defined-Transition-Explains-Effective-Top-Tube-Versus-Reach,841


I mentioned stack because it will dictate where your bars live. A very low stack might work for someone, but if it is two low for you, then you will have only two options to fix it. Put a bunch of spacers under your stem, and effectively raise stack but reduce reach, or run very high rise bars to increase stack but maintain more reach (you may lose some reach due to bar position).

In the end a lot of these measurements are very picky and preference based. All of us can certainly adapt to a bike in any form, even if less an ideal. You're buying new, so dont sacrifice what you need/want.

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 11:23 Quote
CSdirt wrote:

Right, but ETT length is not really telling you how a bike will ride. The length of a top tube can be manipulated by other factors like seat tube angle, seat height, seat position, and reach.

For example, lets take reach out the equation and only look at ETT. Now lets say a bike has the perfect ETT number for you, score right? well maybe not, if that ETT was achieved by a relatively slacker STA then your seated weight is going to be very rearward and bike will want to lift front wheel more during climbing. Not great. Getting the idea here?

Read this article. Your questions will be answered.

https://www.vitalmtb.com/features/Modern-Mountain-Bike-Geometry-Defined-Transition-Explains-Effective-Top-Tube-Versus-Reach,841


I mentioned stack because it will dictate where your bars live. A very low stack might work for someone, but if it is two low for you, then you will have only two options to fix it. Put a bunch of spacers under your stem, and effectively raise stack but reduce reach, or run very high rise bars to increase stack but maintain more reach (you may lose some reach due to bar position).

In the end a lot of these measurements are very picky and preference based. All of us can certainly adapt to a bike in any form, even if less an ideal. You're buying new, so dont sacrifice what you need/want.

That's literally what I said, almost word for word.

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 11:27 Quote
probably started typing at the same time...Im distracted with actual work to post quicky lolll.

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 22:03 Quote
TMA-1 wrote:
TheSlayer99 wrote:
Kidklayko wrote:


Yes top tube length is not felt on the downhill, but it is on the climbs and in the saddle, what stem length does your hardtail have? It is arguably one of the more important features when finding the correct stem length. Also given your 6'3, I think you should look at maybe the XL of the Spectral and XXL of the Yt. I ride a long L at 5'10 and it feels perfect.

I’d have to disagree, the L spectral and XL jeffsy wild be mint. I’m 6’ even and I’d be looking at the M spectral and L jeffsy.

I’d lean more towards the spectral 5 rather than the spectral 6 or the jeffsy. The 5 is cheaper and has a better spec than the 6 and jeffsy core 2. On the jeffsy I’d want a 2 degree angleset to make the bike descend better because of how steep the head angle is, and swap the brakes to something more powerful.

Im looking at the 6 instead of 5 because of the 1.6 pounds weight difference. 35.2lbs for the 5 just sounds so heavy.
I will pedal and climb a lot (home trails), but also want to develop skills for more routier descents as I enjoy that more. So Im trying to find that imagenary bike that can do it all without going up in price for carbon :-)

You say you enjoy the descents more but willingly will pay more for worse performing brakes, suspension and wheels? That doesn't make a lot of sense to me. The drivetrain is where all that extra weight is on the 5, which will end up being negligible when riding. If weight is such a big issue buy the 5 and use the money you save on the xt cassette and cranks, that's your 1.6lbs right there.

Posted: Jan 11, 2022 at 22:12 Quote
CSdirt wrote:
probably started typing at the same time...Im distracted with actual work to post quicky lolll.

It's crazy the things I'll do when I have the day off.

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