BMX PARTS REVIEW (Read and ask before you buy!)

PB Forum :: BMX (20")
BMX PARTS REVIEW (Read and ask before you buy!)
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flag Aaron-J
Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 9:00 Quote
Right.. I've been extremely lazy, but I figure its time I updated this dealy a bit. So scan through it. I've added:



Note: Ctrl+F on your keyboard will open up the "Find" window. Use this as a search function if you are looking to find a review on a certain part.

CHAINS:

Shadow Conspiracy V2(silver pins) and V2B(black pins):
Well, there are currently the "standard" in halflink chains, as it were. I have never snapped one, but I have stretched a few. They are strong as all hell, and can be put through a lot of shit. Also, none of mine have rusted, or even shown signs of it (I've had 3 at various points).

The main problem with these chains, is actually installing/removing them. Hell, talk to a lot of shop mechanics (i am one), we all hate working on the damn things. The ruin chain breakers like it's going out of style, and trying to install a single link is a pain in the ass. If you're going to get one, see if the shop has a Park Tools "plier" style chain breaker. It's your best bet.
Somehow, I have broken and installed them with my multitool chainbreaker.

KMC "Pintle" Half link chain:
The new kid on the block, and it shows. They are significantly cheaper then the SC's, and much easier to install, as they do not use the mushroomed pins like the SC(not to the same degree, anyhow). LIke any halflink chain, they are great for getting your wheel slammed into your dropouts, or slightly altering your wheelbase.
But, they have strength issues. Like people have posted on here, they snap, and snap well. I snapped mine twice in less then a week, both times just cranking easily at a ramp or tranny. One time the plates spread off the link, the next time I snapped one of the plates in half. My friend did the same thing to his, but is still using it. As best I can tell, these chains cannot take abuse. If you plan to to any sketchy grinds or sprcoket stalls, I would recommend staying away from them.

KMC 710 "SL" with hollow pins/punched plates:
From pictures of this chain, I thought it looked like a MTB chain with some fancy holes. Once I picked it up though, I knew it was something else all together. This chain is beefy, but still light weight. The holes are not as big as they look, and the outer plates have been made thicker. The hollow pins are also mushroomed towards the end. This chain is easy to work with, but still strong, and it looks sweet (which is oh-so important). So far, I have nothing negative to say about this chain, which has helped to remove the sour taste my pintle left in my mouth. Plus my cuts are actually starting to heal.
Note: I'm currently running the Titanium Nitride finished 710SL, which is a gold coloured finish. Same great performance, now with Bling!

KMC 510HX
The older brother of the 710SL. This chain sports mushroomed pins, but without the hollow plates or pins. It is also of a standard plate design, instead of the anti-drop plate design sported on the basic 710 chain. The chain is found under the "Premium" label, and will run you around 20 dollars. The amount of stretch is minimal, and the mushroomed bins give the chain a lot more strength then the regular KMC 410H or Z-chains.



SEATPOSTS:

1664 LTD Series post:
See: Shadow Conspiracy, Eastern, Coalition.
All these posts are the same, with the exception of the colour of the guts. That's not necessarily a bad thing however, as they work well. The posts are incredibly light, very strong, and easy to work with. A 1664 post + Odyssey Senior seat is lighter then a Macniel OG seat and post. They are a post, plain and simple, but they are cheap, and a good bang for the buck.


Macneil Pivotal post:
See: Axiom Pivotal, and several others.
A great idea, from a solid company. This post design is also featured on some of the new Norco's (2006 250). The post is fairly light, very cheap, and quite strong. The system does not offer any fore/aft adjustability, however. The posts are available in a variety of MTB sizes, in addition to the standard 25.4mm BMX size. Not much else to say. it's a simple, great design, that never causes the seat angle to slip when you fall.

Macneil Stump Post:
See: Macneil Pivotal
Same concept, just revised to allow the post to sit 'slammed'. Macneil saw that people were modding the normal posts to sit lower, and decided to produce their own version of the post. It does its job, with no problems.

FBM stump post:
See Macneil stump post

SEATS:

Shadow Conspiracy Slim "Penumbra series" Alistair Whitton edition:
The "Penumbra series" of seats are SC seats with fancy new materials designs. The essence of the seats is the same, however. The seats are comfortable for sitting on for reaosnable periods of time, but dont' expect an XC or fat DJ seat amount of comfort. While mine hasn't had any issues, I have heard they pop off the rails in hard crashes. I do not know if this has been fixed or not. Also, the material absorbs sweat, and can small after a while. Beyond that, they are tough little seats, and fairly comfortable as well. I personally use it on my Freeride bike, with no issues.


Odyssey Senior Saddle:
A bigger version of the Junior saddle, these seats are pretty sweet. They weigh next to nothing, and come in a few different colours (black, white, brown, and black kevlar). They are fairly cheap, and quite tough too boot. Also, they are reasonably comfortable to sit on. Not like a big fat seat, but they won't kill your buttcheeks if you need to sit down while cruising to the local riding spots. Another good product from Odyssey, and I have no complaints.



PIVOTAL SEATS:

Macneil O.G.
I hate this seat. The plastic sides/back are uncomfortable, and make it paainful to pinch for any length of time. It's decent enough for sitting on, but that's about it. The wider sides also scrape the ground a lot when you fall, and has caused the material to rip open right where it meets the plastic on my seat. I also found the plastic sides hit my legs while manualing, which can get painful after a while.

Macneil Kevlar SL:
Strong, Light, Small. That's pretty much what you get. It's not an amazing seat for sitting on, with the minimal padding. The kevlar material is tough, and mine shows no wear after plenty of falling. Try not to get grease on it though, because the grey material shows it. It's not the prettiest seat, but you get used to it, and you could always dye it if you want it black. Oh, and Kevlar absorbs ass sweat. You have been warned.

Macneil Fat Capital:
Comfortable. This seat, is as comfortable as a leather couch. It is easy to pinch with it's size, but it is slim at the same time. Because there is no plastic siding, if you hit it on your legs while manualing/spinning, you barely notice it, and won't feel any pain. Once again, the Kevlar absorbs smells, but atleast the black colouring doesn't show any grease/oil that may get on it. I have no bad things to say about this seat so far. I am simply in love with it.

Macneil Capitol Seat:
Been running it for 6 months, no problems, not even 1 tear, and it has survived numerous slides on concrete and blacktop. Not all that comfy though...
Editors note: A buddy of mine just picked this up. I may grab it off him for a bit to try it out
THANKS TO DJFIVEJAMES FOR THE REVIEW

Ceneca Cypress seat:
One of the new players on the Pivotal scene. THis seat sits between the Macneil SL and Capital in terms of size and padding. Its fairly comfortable, assuming you won't be sitting on it for long periods of time, and stays out of the way nicely while riding.

Animal(A-Bikes) Strip Pivotal
The long awaited Animal seats are here, and while they have been observed to be 'ugly' or 'shapeless', I'm personally a big fan of the seat. I picked one up as an impulse purchase, and I love it. I think it looks great, it stays out of the way fairly well, but is comfortable enough to land on if you screw up, or just to sit on at the park between runs. As a cool sidenote, the bolt inside the seat is hollow, for that extra Pimp factor.


PEDALS:

Fly Rubens
Dope. These pedals have mad grip, for only 8 pins per side. In fact, some of my small setscrews have fallen out (you may want to loctite them when you buy them) but I haven't bother to replace them, as I don't notice a difference. These pedals weigh in at half a pound less then basic Odyssey JC's, and are just as strong. I personally f'ed my bearings up real quick, but I put bearings through hell, and I always have. Other people I have talked to, have had no issues.
***update*** The pins are very difficult to remove after a few months, and may require you to dremel them out. I would recommend replacing the pins with the pins from Odyssey JC pedals, which thread in perfectly, and are infinitely easier to remove later on.

Odyssey Jim Ceilincki's(JC) Unsealed Looseball
Essentially the "Standard" pedal in BMX, these pedals have really earned their rep. They are reasonably light, strong, and cheap. I've seen these pedals with chunks ripped out of them (rarely) and they are still going strong. It's not uncommon to see pairs 2 or 3 years old still runing smoothly. Hell, the pair I use have gone through 2 other people before me, and they are still running strong. For a cheap, good pedal, I highly recommend the JC's. Plus Odyssey is always coming out with new, limited edition colours(like the hiliter yellow)

Updated Odyssey JC's Same as the other ones, but with an updated pin design that has a step, instead of being threaded where your shoe contacts them. This makes it easier to remove the pins when they need to be replaced, because the threads won't be damaged. Still amazing pedals, if a bit portly.

Shimano DX
These pedals can be hard to come by these days, but they are worth looking for. They are a sealed pedal, with aluminum pedal bodies, and cromoly spindles. While the pins may seem too short at first, you will quickly get used to them, and they have a few advantages. Not only is it quite a bit easier to reposition your foot on the pedals, there is a lot less pain when you shin yourself.
If you want longer pins, they are included with the pedals, and are as long as most pedals out there today. The setscrews are quite small, so be sure to loctite them in. Also, if you damage the end of the setscrews, they may be difficult to remove. I would recommend removing the pins on one side of the pedals if you plan to grind on them. Very smooth, light weight, quite strong. I love mine, and don't plan to give them up anytime soon.

Wellgo MG1
Stellar pedals. For less then 100 bucks CAD, you get a pedal lighter then the Fly Rubens, with more pins, and better bearings. Actually, I cut down the pins on my pedals, because they are vicious, and will tear the hell out of your shins when left stock. These pedals have an optional Ti spindle offered as well, which will make your pedals even lighter!
Highly recommended

Odyssey Twisted PC pedals:
These pedals have been around for ages, but have suddenly been given new life with the weight races that are currently going on in BMX. They are almost as light as the Wellgo MG1 pedals, but they only cost about 15 bucks, instead of 90. They'll last you a fair bit too, and once they die, hey, you only paid 15 bucks to begin with. Grip is surprisingly good, and will last for quite a while, provided you stay away from pedal grinds. The newest version of these pedals have the Odyssey JC pedal spindle, which is renowned for its strength. Awesome.

Animal Steven Hamilton pedals (green version tested)
When they first arrived, I knew that those pedals would be flipping sweet, the shape and everything was just perfect for my feet, the come with lots of replaceable pins and they're next to unbreakable. I had some sort of trouble with the left one coming a bit loose on some rides (I ride the unsealed ones) but after a bit of riding, the problem was gone, they've gone on downhill runs, cased dirt jumps been smacked to death on pedal grinds etc... And they're still as good as new, the price might set some of you off but trust me, they are worth every penny.
Editors note: I've read of people on BikeGuide having problems with the pins loosening as well. Some people have also cracked the bodies and bent spindles. I haven't used the pedals personally, so don't let this put you off. I'm simply relaying what I've seen.
THANKS TO TGR FOR THE REVIEW

1664 Beavertrap Pedals
I got some old-stock Beavertraps for 12 bucks off ebay. My bud reccomended em, so i thought why not. Got em in, and they were rather gritty, as the stock grease had deteriorated. so i cracked em open and reserviced em with new grease and whatnot.
Then when i was putting the bolt back on to hold the axle/cone nut in, it stripped, leaving the pedal unrideable until a new one was available. i emailed 1664(conviniently located in my home city) and they replied within minutes with handy advice, and words of sending me a new one, or giving me one at a local park. I said they could just mail me one. I wasnt going to ride the pedals for a week or so anyways, so i never really missed the bolt coming in. Then on monday, after i emailed them the mid-week before, they contacted me, asking if i had got the package yet. TALK ABOUT CUSTOMER SERVICE!. I replied no, but only to receive it later that day, with the whole nut/washer/bearing cone setup in the envelope, along with tonnes of factory stickers.
So i opened the pedal again, and put all the new stuff in, and i tried out the pedals that same day. I couldnt have been more impressed. VERY nice feeling pedals, unbeliveable grip, and a wide base to stand on. my bud has some and he has put his through hell and back.
The pedals have a fairly deep set hole for the screws, so they dont come out all that easily. The base is nice and wide, so it keeps your feet comfy. The pins do stick out alot, so be prepared to loose a bit of skin on your shins. However, you tend to stick to the pedal pretty good, so slipping isnt generally a factor.
DEFINITLY reccomend these pedals, along with any products by 1664, simply due to thier customer service.
Editors note: These pedals are available in Aluminum and Magnesium, sealed and unsealed versions. I personally own the magnesium version, and they perform very well, in addition to being nice and lightweight. For anyone wanting cheap pedals that don't weagh a ton and have excellent grip, I'd highly recommend them.
THANKS TO ANDY-ROO FOR THE REVIEW



BRAKES

Odyssey Evolver II
An updated, slimmed down, pimped out version of the Evolver. Odyssey took the original castings of the Evolver, and revised them to have less bulk and a lower profile. The new Evo II sits lower on the mounts, allowing better chain clearance on chainstay mount frames. With the brake, you also get several goodies. Pre-cut lengths of straddle cable, an updated cable hanger(similar to the Fly ones) and the usual London mod and front brake equipment.
Cheaper the the Fly brakes, and good performance. Check 'em out.

Odyssey Evolvers
For a long while, these breaks were tops in the BMX world. Strong, not too heavy, and easy to work on. The stock pads that come with them, are their only downside. For some people, the Odyssey 1X4 pads work very well. I think a big part of this has to do with the riders weight, however. Being 200lbs, I didn't find these breaks to have the stopping power I was looking for (a lot, coming from MTB). Pick up a pair of Koolstop pads, however, and this can change. I have ridden an amazing pair of Evolvers, which were set up with the Koolstops. They were comparable to Fly's in terms of performance.
The main downfall of Evolvers, is the high Stack height. It makes it difficult to use Micro gearing for anyone running chainstay brake mounts, without the lowered chainstays.
Odyssey has recently released the Evo2, which are slimmed down Evolvers, with a lower stack height. check them out.

Fly Bikes Brake
Pricey. That's the first thing that comes to mind about the Fly brakes. Fortunately, you do get what you pay for. These brakes are very lightweight, and minimal. They sit about 2-3 mm higher then the brake posts, making it easy to run micro gearing with chainstay brakes. And their performance is nothing to laugh at. Even set up poorly, these brakes will lock up your wheel without an issue with the stock pads(Koolstops). PIck up some Koolstop Salmon/Dual compounds, and your breaking gets unreal. Every person that has ridden my bike has good things to say about the breaks, and often flip over backwards if using them on a fakie trick. Amazing brakes, if you can pay the price. The angled arms work well with chainstay brakes, but put your cable at a funny angle for Seatstay brakes. Despite that, mine still work very, very well.



SPROCKETS

S&M 25 tooth guarded
Maybe it was me, maybe it was my shadow chain, but this sprocket did not last. Within 2 months of moderate use all of the teeth elongated and a few eventually snapped clean off. Despite being a guarded sprocket, I didn't really do any sprocket stalls, meaning the teeth weren't damaged by impact forces. The 6061 aluminum simply didn't hold up to the task, and the sprocket wore out far more quickly then I personally consider acceptable. Aviod if possible.

Tree 24&25 tooth OG
The joy of 7075 sprockets. Tree has a reputation for high quality, brute strong sprockets, and mine was no exception. The Tree sprockets have a higher cost of entry then many sprockets, due to the more expensive aluminum used, but this is repayed in the longevity of the sprocket. Mine is now on it's third owner, and still looks the same as it did when it was brand new. Another nice fact is that then center spindle hole is drilled for 22mm spindles. if you have cranks such as the Primo Power/hollow bites, or the new Fly cranks, you can use the sprocket without an adapter. This means the sprocket is perfectly centered, preventing your chain tension from changing. Be sure to get the top hat spacer/adapter if you run 19mm spindle cranks though. You'll need it, and they can be hard to come by.

Tree 28 tooth LITE
The newest version of the Tree sprocket to hit the market. These sprockets feature an I-beam structure which helps make them mad strong, while still being very light weight. Being the light version, they only have one hole for the sprocket bolt, instead of 5. Still a 22mm center hole, and still as strong as always. You can also get a Spline drive version for 48 spline cranks, which eleminates the sprocket bolt all together.

Animal Lite 22 tooth
I was not impressed by this sprocket. Due to the small size, the machined out holes come excessively close to the teeth, allowing them to actually bend inwards by impact forces. I bent my sprocket simply taking my chain off with a screwdriver(which I commonly do). In addition, my sprocket seemed to sit off center, causing tight spots in my chain tension. The sprockets are made out of 6061, which wears faster then 7075 aluminum. Overall, I'd avoid this sprocket. I've also heard of them cracking at the crank bolt hole, which is also incredibly close to the teeth.

Animal Lite 25 tooth
Not a bad sprocket, but not a stand out either. What makes these sprockets appealing is that Animal manufactures every size for 22 teeth up to 33 teeth. This allows you to fine tune your gear ratios and chainstay lengths. The sprocket is made of 6061, making it susceptible to tooth wear from half link chains. It also gets gouged easier, and shows wear faster. My 25 tooth seemed to be made a lot better then the 22 tooth, and I had no issues with it. It is now on it's 3rd owner, who is also happy with its performance. It is showing wear, but still has a fair amount of time left on it.

Primo 23 tooth
As far as super micro sprockets go, the Primo is well made. Primo removed material to save weight, but left enough to prevent the sprocket from being weak. It's 6061 aluminum, making it wear quicker, but it also means this sprocket is fairly cheap (around $60 CAD). The teeth on mine have minimal wear so far, and i more then feel I got my moneys worth out of this sprocket. If you plan on running an 8 tooth driver, or you simply want an easier ratio with your 9 tooth, I'd recommend the Primo.

FBM 7075 Race 25 tooth
I just picked this up to run with my profile, so time is going to be the deciding factor. Initial impressions are good. This sprocket is very light, but is also thick, meaning it should be resistant to bending forces. The teeth also appear to be narrow enough for use with narrower 3/32" chains. I'll keep you posted on this one as it develops. I'm not sure if the narrower teeth will wear faster, or if the 7075 aluminum will even things out.

Odyssey Million Dollar Sprocket
Solid performer. This fullguard sprocket offers an optional guard for the backside of the sprocket, that gives you full protection all around your chain. It fits well, and protects your chain. Its worth nothing that fatter chains(shadow halflink and similar) will dig into the guard, causing wear marks. This doesn't weaken it, and it will stop once the chain has bedded into it. No complaints about this sprocket at all. It lets me be a hack, looks cool, is reasonably priced, and fairly light weight.

Dangerboy 28t Sprocket
Less than what I was expecting is all I can really say. I have bought Dangerboy products back when I rode street MTB and they worked fairly well, but this one was different. Within a month you could see an ever-so-slight bend in the sprocket (although you did have to be looking fairly closely). I never did grinds or stalls on it, so really this was caused solely from the chain being run over it. However, in the last two months the bend has not increased at all, so I am unsure. Maybe I hit it by accident? I will have to see.
THANKS TO IRISH ON MTB FOR THE REVIEW



HUB GUARDS

G-SPORT G.L.A.N.D II
As far as hubguards go, this is one of the most effecient options out there. About 30 dollars gets you a plastic disc that resembles a small Frisbee. it is attached to your wheel via zipties or the "mankee" strap, which is essentially s shoelace(I'd recommend using it over Zipties). What makes this hubgaurd amazing are the weight(super light) and the warranty. G-Sport gives this guard a lifetime warranty against breakage. Not only that, they will warranty it even if you trim it down This means you can make the guard smaller for aesthetic reasons, and still get a new one if you mess it up.
Not the prettiest guard by any means, but definitely one of the most effective.

FBM 6061 guard
An aluminum guard designed for use on 14mm rear hubs. This guard is slid onto the axle behind the peg, and sits on the inside of the dropouts between the dropout and the cone nut. The issue with this is the thickness. The guard is about 3 mm thick, requiring you to stretch your dropouts apart before you can put your wheel in. it's also heavy, weighing around .25 of a pound. They do their job well, and can be rotated once you've worn away an area of the guard. You can get them in a few colours to match your bike as well.

Profile Mini Guard
Profile offers a proprietary hubguard for their Mini line of hubs. This aluminum guard has some heft to it, but fits the hub without adding any width to your rear hub spacing. The guard is also styled to push you back onto your peg if you miss it on the ledge. However, the bike can sit on the flat upper edge of the guard when you grind ledges.
Overall, its worth getting the guard for your Profile hub, if you're the grinding sort.

Knight Marmoset guards
These guards are one of a few made for the Marmoset hub. They are small, sitting only slightly larger then the flange of the hub. these guards are not meant to be pounded every day. They are instead meant to keep the occasional screw up from pounding the hell out of your hub. They do their job well, and look good, but remember they are a disposable part, and will wear out over time.


GRIPS

Shadow Conspiracy Finger Bangers
The version I used was the "thick" version, and I fell in love from the moment I put my hands on them. The 0 shaped pattern feels good to the touch, and gives plenty of grip to your hands, even when they are sweaty. I'm a fan of thicker grips, so I enjoyed the feel of these fat grips. The wear life is reasonable, wearing slower then Animal Edwins, but quicker then "flat" grips, without a raised pattern to them. I'd use these again no question. As it was, I wore through them, flipped them, and wore through again (my palm rubs grips a lot.. I always kill them in the same place). The grips will leave some of the black flakes on your hands, as is common with many grips on the market.

Fly Ruben Longs
I run these grips without flanges, and flipped. This makes them amazing, as other riders I've met can attest. Even run normally, these are nice grips. The modified mushroom pattern makes them feel soft, while still offering a good amount of grip. They are fairly wide as well, meaning those that like low profile grips may choose to avoid them. The included press in barends work well, and are made of a softer plastic then most, preventing them from cracking. They also stay in most bars very well too boot. When flipped, the grips have a "fly" pattern that runs where my palm sits. Being of thicker, blockier rubber, this is giving the grips a great wear life. You also only feel the mushroom pattern under your fingers, giving the grips a nice uniform feel. Check them out.

Animal Edwin Delarosa grips
another great animal bike parts offering, the edwin grips are the most comfortable grips on the market, they are pretty cheap (15$) but the quality is really great, after more than three months on them, they show some signs of wear but the are still as good as new, the fact that they are so soft allows you to ride without gloves. Even for people who tend to sweat a lot from their hands (well I do) the don't even slip when they're wet! I love them and they're for sure going on my bmx too soon...
Editors note: I know a couple guys with these grips, and they love them as well.. They wore them out fairly quickly, but the grips felt great.
THANKS TO TGR FOR THE REVIEW

S and M Logo Grips
These didnt please me. Mainly because they are already warn in when you get them, which basically begs the question "What the @&#$ is the point?" Seriously. This are already worn in when you buy them. Unless you really want these and have a liking for this type of grip (and there are some people out there who just absolutely love them) then go for it, but most people should be looking elsewhere.
THANKS TO IRISH ON MTB OR THE REVIEW



RIMS

Alex Supra B
The rim I'm using right now, and a rim I plan to use for some time to come. Light, dirt cheap, fairly strong. This rim holds a true well, and seems to be reasonably resistant to damage(I run high pressure though). I'm on my first 2 after many months, and a coworker is on his 5th(not due to damage, just different hub setups). A solid buy if you want a cheap, light rim. Dont' expect them to last forever, but you can buy 2 or 3 for the price of a 7000 series alloy rim.

Odyssey Hazard Light
A fairly OG rim, but a good one none the less. This rim approaches the profile of a triple walled rim, but without the weight. being an Odyssey product, it's backed by a good company policy(no lifetime warranty, obviously) and works well. Reasonably light rims, and not too bad on the wallet. Don't expect the higher quality and strength of 7000 series rims, but don't expect the price either. A safe bet for anyone looking for mid to high-end rims.

G-SPORT Ribcage(mocha finish)
These are one of the new rims on the market. They are strong, with a good hold on your bead. They are drilled in a cross lacing pattern, meaning the spokes from on side of the hub, lace to the opposite side of the rim(similar to Fly rims). This laving style gives the rim wheel more strength, and helps it to stay in true as well. the rim is available in natural, chrome, black hard anodized, and Mocha super hard anodized. Oh, and make sure you run reasonably high pressure. I haven't done it myself, but some people have been denting th rims fro running too low pressure, and casing.

thanks to JU$TIN for the following

Alex Supra E
-This rim was pretty good. I found it to be strong and would take some abuse. The first version of this rim is alot heavier than the revised version. Alex rims are known to be good and hold up. However they do tend to have flakey chrome on them that tends to chip away more than some competitive brands. Both are excellent for street/park and are triple walled.

Alex Supra B
-This rim comes stock on some older model bikes. It is still common to find these rims nowadays at a cheap price. If memory serves me; these rims are only single walled. A good choice for younger, beginner riders on a budget.

Alex Supra G
-I personally love / loved these rims. They are strong and light. These rims were "one" of the first to incorporate motorcycle technology by having their spoke holes offset for added strength. "I ran this rim on the rear for 2 years with some minor spoke adjustment and it held up fine. I then later switched this rim to my front because it is strong and light. Still running it today. 3+yrs later.

Odyssey Hazzard Lite
-I have just laced this rim to an Eastern hub. I've only had the chance to try it out a handfull of times. So far no complaints. Im sure anyone you ask will vouche for these rims as they are very popular amoungst the BMX community. Same goes for the original version: Its just a bit heavier.

Sun Big Fat Rim
-Growing more uncommon due to mainly newer models from Sun Rims. These rims in my opinion are a waste of money. A few years ago I ordered one from a lbs (which I was currently working for) and thought these rims would be a good investment. I was so wrong. This rim did not even last me half a season (Canadian) and they had hops and warps all over them. I would not recommend these rims to anyone and Im starting to wish i had never posted any info on them. Just forget em.



STEMS

Odyssey Elementary
If there is a stem that has cause more controversy, I haven't crossed it yet. One bolt, wedge design, less then 9 ounces. My personal experiences with this stem were great. Once you've removed and installed it a couple times, it becomes very easy to do, with minimal fussing over the wedges. This stem has an incredible amount of clamping power, with the ability to crush/ovalise bars if you are not careful. it is important not to get any grease on the bar/fork contact areas of the wedges, but to grease everything else. Otherwise the stem may not tighten properly, and will allow you bars to slip.
I personally recommend this stem. Some people have issues, but they are usually do to installation errors. It's also backed by Odyssey's killer warranty support, like always.

Animal Jumpoff
This stem is a classic. Simple, Nothing to go wrong. But also nothing to excite. If you're going for a bland, reasonably weighted stem that comes in some pretty colours, this one is it. But don't get the wrong impression. It clamps the bars, clamps them well, and you'll rarely get any reliability issues. Some people have had cracked faceplates, but it seems to be an uncommon issue(though it is showing up with some of the lighter "traditional" style stems. My only issue with it was the use of SAE hardware. I simply found it less convenient to have to carry a set of imperial Allen keys with me at the same time. I didn't mind too much as my seat clamp was SAE at the time as well. For a bare basic, set and forget stem, the Animal is a sure bet. However, the price runs a bit higher then some other stems, so bare that in mind while shopping around.

Shadow Conspiracy Attack
Another controversial stem. Super light weight, front load, Hollow bolts. I've only had this stem for a couple months, so I can't say a ton about it, but my initial impressions have been good. SC has a spotty rep, with some hit-or-miss products, but I have been pleased so far. The stem clamps the bars well, with no slipping incidences as of yet. The gyro plate works well, and looks nice. The low profile is also nice, especially if you have a short steerer tube that may not allow you to run a higher stem comfortably. I'll keep you posted as I get more riding time on the stem. Oh, and the laser etching looks Ace as well.

Fly Potencia Stem
A great stem very light and looks clean. Also comes in a lot of colors. The only problem I have with this stem is the back of the stem is pointed instead of rounded so you tend to hit your knee on the stem and it hurts like hell. Over all great stem. I fized the problem by getting a roach stem pad which is a good investment on any bmx bike to prevent those horrible pains you get from smashing your knee on the stem.
THANKS TO YATOLDMESO FOR THE REVIEW

Kink Raider stem
Disappointing. I bought it brand new off a friend who won it at a comp, and it has not been very nice to me. My bars have constantly moved around from harsh landings; this thing just does not hold the bars. First I tried tightening my bolts are fare as I could, that didnt work. Then I went and bought brand new bolts that went in deeper, and then spent a half hour tightening these as much as humanly possibly, and this actually worked for about a month and a half, until it started coming lose again. I am getting me a new stem asap.
THANKS TO IRISH ON MTB FOR THE REVIEW



TIRES

Animal ASM slick
ASM is the acronym for A Slick Motherf*cker, and that is definitely what this tire is. Weighing in at around 1.4 pounds, this is not a light tire by any means, but thats not it's primary purpose. Animal made this tire to be a fast rolling, tough slick, with the ability to resist pinch flats and torn sidewalls. They succeeded. While running this tire (in rear, and for both front and rear) I never suffered a torn sidewall from grinding rough ledges, or a flat of any kind, even from glass or debris. Tough, well priced, and fast. Also, these tires are rated up to 110PSI, meaning you can run a rock solid tire in the rear, and lower pressure to absorb impacts up front. A solid buy, that can last for years. As long as you don't ride on super slippery surfaces, or make sudden turns on low traction areas, you'll be fine with these tires.
On a side note, brakeless riders will find it more difficult to stop by footjamming, due to the slick design. Available in 1.95 and 2.1

Primo Comet slick
This tire is one of the older Slicks on the market. Whereas the Animal has small sportbike style cut outs, the Primo is 100% slick. Initially marketed as a flatland tire, Primo made it more widely available as it became popular with the park and street crowd. Similar to the ASM, the Primo rolls super quickly, and hold up well to grinding and skidding. The Primo is also rated up to 110PSI, allowing it to be run rock solid for a super fast rolling speed. As with all slicks, footjamming to stop is not the most efficient process, due to the lack of tread. Available in 1.75, 1.95, and 2.1

KHE Premium Street folding beads
A new trend in BMX is kevlar folding bead tires, which are super light weight, and able to withstand high pressures. KHE was one of the first to produce a tire, with the Premuim, which is available in Flatland(1.5), Park(1.9), and Street version(a BIG 2.1). Weighing in at 0.96lbs for the street version, this tire is very light. But don't let the weight fool you. This tire has amazing traction! It rolls as quickly as the slick tires, but grips slippery surfaces a lot more effectively. Rated up to 120PSI, these tires can also be run super firm. the Street version(that I use) has thicker sidewalls then the other 2, making it more resistant to tearing during grinds. Still, this is not a tire to buy if you plan to grind concrete street ledges all day. If you can afford the higher then average price, these tires are a great way to improve your ride. Not only do you save weight (I saved a pound switching from dual ASM's to dual KHE's), the lower rotational mass will make you bike feel quicker and more responsive all around.
A definite buy in my books. Keep in mind these tires are big, and some frames have clearance issues. The solution seems to be running the Street version up front, and the narrow Flatland version in the back.

Animal GLH tire
Awesome, awesome tire. It has lasted me a year, and its not done yet. It has never slipped out on my that I can recall, and I ride dirt fairly often. It's prety good at keeping evil sharp things away from my tube too. Highly reccomended
Editors note: I ran this tire up front for a while, and I agree with everything written above. This tire is basically like the ASM, but with a tread pattern for more grip. Solid for those not convinced slicks will have enough grip. The weight is about the same as the ASM's. Available in 1.95 or 2.1, and rated up to 110PSI
THANKS TO DJFIVEJAMES FOR THE REVIEW

Kenda K-Rad tire
I have run these for years. I find that they are a really good front tire, but they wear really fast if you put them in the back. They pack up if you ride wet dirt, but then again, what tire doesn't? The sidewall is a bit thin, but I've only had one actually fail on me, out of about five that I've owned.
Editors note: This tire is rated to about 60PSI, and is avilable in 1.96(if think) and 2.3
THANKS TO DJFIVEJAMES FOR THE REVIEW

Snafu Rim Job tire
Ridden for 1 month. Avoid these like the plague! The reason I only rode them for one month is because the sidewalls on both tires blew out, making them totally useless and I am NOT a very hard rider. The grip was surprisingly good (think Maxxis Holy Roller/Kenda K-Rad with loads more knobs) and I cant recall a time that it slipped on me. Weight was a bit of an issue; these are not particularly light tires, and it matters even more when you remember that these are rotating masses.
These tires are junk.
THANKS TO IRISH ON MTB FOR THE REVIEW

Odyssey Path Tire (Front: 2.1, Rear: 1.85)
These rule. After my terrible experience with the Snafu's, I was looking around and saw these at my local BMX shop. I had tried them out on my friend's BMX a little while earlier and had liked the feel of them, so I gave them a shot. Price is more expensive than normal; mine were $27+tax for each, but these turned out to be worth every penny, and more. They absolutely rule for every kind of riding, and I have done every kind of riding on them. Skatepark, street and a night of dirt track racing have all been handled extremely nicely by this tire. After more than two months on my bike they have minimal signs of wear and tear.
One thing I recommend with these tires: Pump them with extremely high PSI. The recommended max is 90 PSI, I did 100.
THANKS TO IRISH ON MTB FOR THE REVIEW
Addendum: Plyte paths
the Odyssey Path PLYTE tires use a new sidewall and bead that is thiner then the traditional sidewall, making these tires light weight, without using a kevlar bead. The rubber and tread pattern is still the same, and Odyssey is now offering most of their new tires in a Plyte version. If you're looking to save weight without spending a lot of cash for Kevlar bead tires, definitely check out the Plytes.


HUBS

Front

Odyssey Vandero 7075
This hub has been a mainstay of Odyssey for quite a while. A lightweight, 3/8" axled hub, I have found the Vandero to be a durable, simple hub. I've had no problems with bent axles, and my bearings are(amazingly!) still as smooth as the day I got the hub a year ago. I run the hub laced Inbound to a Supra B, and it has held up well to a lot of Smith grind and double peg grinds, with no bent flanges or axles. The Vandero has recently been updated(the Vandero 2) with a female style axle similar to the G-SPORT Marmoset. As far as I'm concerned, that can only make it even better.
This hub is generally the front hub on the Odyssey Hazard Light wheels. All the parts are available separately from Odyssey, and Titanium axles are available aftermarket.

G-SPORT Marmoset
The Marmoset is Gsports 36hole, 3/8" 'axle' front hub. In reality, the hub uses 3/8" bolts that thread into a 17mm helicoiled aluminum axle, which passes through big bearings. These hubs are touted as being as strong as a 14mm axled hub, and they last a long time. Some people have been having issues with the hubs being wobbly, and sice there are no cone nuts, the hub needs to be warrantied. Still, Odyssey/G-SPORT is doing their best to fix any problems. There are also a couple new bolt options coming out, including a 17mm headed bolt with a 6 broached head, and 'volcano' allen key bolts.

Rear

Odyssey Cassette

One of the original Cassette hubs, the Odyssey cassette is the most copied hub on the market. Hubs from Fit, Demolition and Macneil have all used the odyssey design, with varying degrees of success. The Odyssey hub is available with a 2 piece driver allowing 12-16 tooth cogs, or 1 piece drives in 10 or 11 teeth. 9 tooth drivers are also available from King, Blackout, RNC, and Profile. The Odyssey driver uses 4 pawls with a retaining spring clip to engage the hub. a simple design, it works effectively and reliably. Some pre 2005 hubs had problems with skipping due to grease being used on the drivers. One cleaned out, this problem is eliminated. 2005 and later models have no grease in the hub. The hub shell features 2 6902RS bearings, which feel smooth, and are easy to find replacements for. The axle is hollow, and broached for a 6mm Allen key on each end. All the parts are available separately from Odyssey, and aftermarket Titanium Axles and Drivers are also available. Available in 14mm LHD or RHD versions.

Primo Mix Cassette
The replacement for the old Primo Pro cassette, the Primo Mix has made a name for itself by having an available 8 tooth one piece driver. Don't let the unique features fool you though, this is a bang-on hub. The hub shell features 4! 6902RS bearings in the body, allowing this hub to take a lot of abuse and still roll smoothly. The axle is hollow and broached for a 6mm Allen key on the end as well. The drivers are also unique. Primo sells the hub with a 1 piece 8 tooth driver, or a 2 piece driver with cogs for 9-11 teeth. The hub is available in LHD or RHD versions. The drivers use 4 pawls which are independently sprung, making for great, skip-free engagement, and a gorgeous sound(which we all know is important!). Some of the first 8 tooth drivers had problems, which Primo fixed by replacing the super small bearings with steel bushings, which have no risk of exploding, and run very smoothly.
I personally used this hub with the available Primo Titanium axle. This is a great upgrade, which shaves a lot of weight from the Hub. The Axle is hollow, and broached for an 8mm allen key.
Replacement parts are available from Primo, and aftermarket Drivers are available from Profile.

Profile Mini cassette with Titanium Axle/Driver
Well... it's a Profile. Overall, the Hub seems to perform well so far, though I'm less then impressed with the initial Esthetic quality. Tooling marks, scratches, and small dents in the flanges from the manufacturing were less then impressive. In addition, the Titanium axle is not hollow or broached, and is too short for my liking. My axle nuts sit flush with the axle without pegs being mounted(Sunday frame). The titanium driver is machined nicely, and engages well. As the Mini is a racing hub, the Driver is machined to be used with 3/32" chains. That means the teeth are thinner then normal, and will probably wear quicker as well.
The driver uses a design similar to the Primo, with 4 pawls each having their own springs. In fact, the pawls and springs appear to be interchangeable, a useful thing to know in a pinch. The drivers, while they fit into the hubshell, aren't compatible without having a custom axle machined.
Overall, this hub seems to perform well. I personally couldn't recommend it over the Mix with a Ti axle, however. My Mix showed up in perfect condition, and ran flawlessly until a mistake I made damaged it. If you want a pretty colour though, or to have the Profile name on your bike, then By all means buy the Mini.
The Mini is available with Titanium or Cromoly 9 10, or 11 tooth drivers, with Titanium, Steel, or steel 3 peice axles, and in LHD or RHD

Eastern Pro Cassette Hub (with 10t driver)
Ridden for 3 months and I have been pleasently surprised with the performance I have gotten out of this hub. It has been rolling nice and true the entire time without any coughs or hicoughs whatsoever. I cant recall a single time this hub has failed me. I have been having some issues in the last month because I left it out in the rain by accident, and it now does not role as freely as before, but some Tri-Flow will fix that up fairly soon. The nice loud sound makes me confident in it too!
Now get this: The hub cost me around $125 I think. This is a four bearing cassette hub with a 6 pawl driver. Odyssey Hazard Lite's are four bearing with 4 pawl drivers and are almost twice the price. This hub is a rockin' product that any rider on a budget should be bangin'!
THANKS TO IRISH ON MTB FOR THE REVIEW



HANDLEBARS

Fit Flow Midlites
One of the new breed of handlebars, the Flow bars are lightweight bars with a great feel. They feature 7.25" rise, about 10 degrees backsweep, and 24.5" width. They feel great, and look great as well. They are 13 butted, and feature a lifetime warranty. Great feel, and I never bent them even after hitting them numerous times. They still live on on another persons bike to this day.
7.25" rise
approx 10* backsweep
1.5lbs
13 butted
24.5" width
Lifetime warranty


Fly Pantera bars
Similar to the Midlites in virtually every way, the Fly Pantera's are the bar I have spent the most time on. They have been butted 9 times, and weigh in at 1.5 lbs. The colours change from time to time, so there's always something unique to buy. Designed for Sergio Layos
7.25" rise
10* backsweep
4* upsweep
1.5lbs
9 butted
24.5" width


Volume Reagle Beagals
Now known as the V6 bars, the beagles are unique in featuring less backsweep then most bars available. The Beagles are a strong bar, which can be cut fairly narrow while still allowing brakes to be used.
Really a bar you have to try for yourself. Some people may find the lesser backsweep to be uncomfortable.
7.5" rise
6* backsweep
25" wide
1.7lbs
9 butted

Sunday Triumph bars
One of the trendy new "Big Bars" on the market, the Triumphs feature 8" of rise and 28" of width. Being from Sunday, they feature the Odyssey 41 Thermal heat treating process, and benefit from the Lifetime, virtually no questions asked warranty. These are a bar you have to get used to. I personally find them to feel too wide for my liking, even cut down to 25.5" wide. I'm going to run these bars around 24" wide without brakes, as I cannot fit a lever on to the bend. The rise feels nice, and has reduced stress on my back during riding.
28" wide
8" rise
12* backsweep
1* upsweep
1.65 pounds
Multi-butted
Lifetime warranty

Odyssey Skim Milk bars
Been riding these for 3 months. Word of advice: TRY BEFORE YOU BUY. These have a shorter cross-bar than any other bars I have tried before, and I know for a fact that many people hate the feel of my bars because of the size of them. However, if you do like the feel of them, then these bars rape. I absolutely love the fact that they are super small; I think it feels more nimble and easier to move around. I have had no bends whatsoever, even though I have taken some hits that rocked them out of place in the stem. I seriously cannot believe how well these have been holding up.
Editors note:
25" wide
7.25" rise
10* backsweep
2* upsweep
Lifetime warranty
THANKS TO IRISH ON MTB FOR THE REVIEW

2007 Odyssey Bar Mitzvah
Back in August I purchased my 24" BMX. It came with stock 5" DK risers. After about a month of riding, the DK bars bent while doing a 180 out of a bank at a concrete skatepark.
After breaking those, I recieved the new DK 5" riser bar under warranty which latest 3 weeks. This time, it was a wallride to tabletop that bent the bars (to tranny of course).
Then, I purchased a pair of Hoffman bars (6.125" or so) which I paid $85 for; they latest 3 days of spins on flatground.
What does this mean? I abuse handlebars. So, after noticing that Odyssey bars come with a lifetime warranty, I realized that I was wasting my time with other BMX bars. So, I decided to order the Odyssey Bar Mitzvah 6.125" rise (I purchased the version with back/up sweep). It has been over a month of skatepark, DJ, and street riding, without any complaints. The bar's geometry has improved my riding and they feel remarkably stiffer then the Hoffman/DK bars. They aren't too heavy, which I like, and they aren't too light, which means they can withstand some pressure.
So far, I've has no complaints, everything is great. I've had someone say they think the bars look ugly because the crossbar is low, but since when was BMX about fashion? And I like the crossbar low because it doesn't look as generic.
Editors note:
7" or 6.125" rise
25" wide
0 or 3* backsweep
2.5* upsweep
Lifetime warranty
THANKS TO DEREK FOR THE REVIEW

PEGS

Macneil Titanium pegs
These pegs are expensive, and getting to be hard to find. However, for straight up 'my pegs are cooler then yours' bragging rights, Ti pegs are hard to beat. The Macneil pegs are lightweight at only 0.5lbs for the pair. Being a softer metal then steel, they wear faster, though with regular rotation, you'll get quite a bit of life out of them. It is also said they leave residue on ledges, making the grind slower, but I cannot personally verify that fact. With the new, lightweight steel and aluminum pegs coming out, Ti pegs are on their last legs but they're still a cool, increasingly uncommon part to have. You're looking at about 140 bucks a pair.

Shadow Lean pegs
These are Shadows lighterweight, regular diameter pegs. They grind well, aren't too heavy, and come with anti-rotation pins. They are machined down slightly on the quarter inch of peg closest to your dropout, to help give clearance for fork legs. There isn't much else to say, they do their job.

Odyssey Jpeg(regular and lite)
Odyssey sells these pegs in singles, allowing you to mix and match sizes to suit your bike. They are available in 3/8" and 14mm, and feature anti-rotation pins. The Lite version is milled out more, to decrease weight without affecting performance to much. Solid, dependable pegs, at a good price.

Demolition Dumbchucks
Whether you want to be silent, conserve the ledges at your local park, or just try something different, these pegs get the job done. They are aluminum cored, with a plastic sleeve pressed on to the outside. They take some getting used to at first, as they slide differently from steel and titanium. Once you get used to them however, they work great. You can find the in black, white, and one or two different colours.


Websites
www.1664BMX.com
www.AlexRims.com
www.Animalbikes.com
www.FBMBMX.com
www.FitBikeCo.com
www.FlyBikesBMX.com
www.GSPORTBMX.com
www.KendaUSA.com
www.KHE-BMX.com
www.KMCChain.com
www.MacneilBMX.com
www.OdysseyBMX.com
www.PrimoBMX.com
www.ProfileRacing.com
www.SandMBikes.com
www.Shimano.com
www.Sun-Ringle.com
www.Sundaybikes.com
www.TheShadowConspiracy.com
www.TreeBicycleCo.com
www.VolumeBikes.com
www.WeThePeople.de




-Aaron

#BANS MONSTERAIR, #BANS
flag Aaron-J
Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 9:23 Quote
Thats right folks, its back. I'm not done updating, formatting, or spell checking her yet, but things will be back up and running smoothly shortly.
flag warrior1
Posted: Oct 16, 2007 at 14:19 Quote
Good info in here. Thanks.

..And someone sticky this again.
flag j123456
Posted: Oct 16, 2007 at 16:16 Quote
I could review the mutiny hubguard and wtp qlite and some other parts.. Should i pm u or what
flag sask-rider
Posted: Oct 16, 2007 at 19:58 Quote
Macneil Primary Sprocket

I first saw this sprocket on 3ride. it looked amazing but I was baffled to find that it wasn't on the Macneil site.Anyways the sprocket is probably one of the lightest on the market. Made of 7075 aluminum this this is strong and at 50 bones this thing is dirt cheap. It comes in 25,28,30 and 33 teeth and you can pick between black and bronze. At the park I always get "that looks pretty thin, won't it bend easily?" and to answer that, NO. I've probably grinded on cement ledges on this thing more times than you can say schnitzel. So in conclusion this is a great sprocket for the price.
flag Aaron-J
Posted: Feb 18, 2008 at 8:43 Quote
BUMP. I might update if I have some time later.
flag fufalump
Posted: Feb 18, 2008 at 10:26 Quote
Everyone, if you want to contribute, pm it to aaron and he'll post it up. If he's hesitant on posting it, he can confer with me and warrior1 and make the appropriate decision. So lets not clog the bottom and try and keep this just for the reviews.
flag zionI
Posted: Mar 2, 2008 at 23:25 Quote
could someone write review on odyssey lumberjack bars,,? I`m interested in buying them,,
flag dh-pete
Posted: Mar 24, 2008 at 10:47 Quote
any reviews of bmx fork's? im buildin a bike up from components so your guide is my bible until thentup
flag Aaron-J
Posted: Mar 24, 2008 at 18:13 Quote
I've had the S&M Pitchfork XLT, Sunday Morning 1, Sunday Morning 2, Macneil ID, and am now on a Macneil Blazer.

In general, you can't go wrong with Odyssey. I personally am interested in trying the Director, but I have pretty much told myself to stop buying bike shit, so its not going to happen unless the Blazer breaks.
The Macneil forks are nice as well. if you're planning to run pegless, the Blazer is a nice choice. Its lightweight, but should be fairly tough. I wouldn't say it is tougher then a director though.

As for pegs with it, it depends. The dropouts are tiny, so a peg actually hangs out past them. Mine also hits the weld on the dropout, so I need to grind it down. Still, I think it will be fine. The PItchfork XLT is the same way, you have to grind the peg to fit it in properly.
flag dh-pete
Posted: Mar 24, 2008 at 18:18 Quote
thank's dude, prop's to you!tup
flag dylanmacd
Posted: Mar 30, 2008 at 23:13 Quote
anyone try the new macneil f.a.c.e. pedals

http://www.macneilbmx.com/products.htm

real light at 8.3Oz/ 235grams each.. made from solid aluminum
wonder if they will hold up...
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