Home Made Bikes

Author Message
flag smalltownboycustoms
Posted: Sep 1, 2015 at 8:52 Quote
madm3chanic wrote:
whats with head angles these days? iv played with everything down to 58 degrees, and i find anything less than 64.5 just sort of flops and wanders even at high speed...kills yr turning ability!

but other than that, nice detail on those frame...where's you get those laser etched gussets? nice frames too- good, simple, classic lines and nice stays/dropouts- cant really do better than that! now just work on yr welds haha Wink

ha yeah. The welds on the green frame are considerably nicer than the top one, had a bit of a nightmare with the seat tube not being straight on the black one, so had to grind off all the tacks. did this about 3 times until I realised that it was that I had my jig set up wrong so got a little messy down by the BB after all this. With the green I played with my settings, upped the amps a little and a slower pulse. Flows so much better.

The HA on that one frame is SO slack because it got long forks on it, not what is was designed for. Just what I had hanging around. The HA's are also static, So with the weight of rider, the 64º one with be about 65.5 and the 65º one will be 66.5º.

Thanks man, I do it all myself. Bend the stays, turn the dropouts on a lathe then shape by hand and etch the gussets and then cut out and shape by hand. I don't make enough frames to warrant out sourcing bits, plus I enjoy it ha. as tedious as it may be sometimes.
flag smalltownboycustoms
Posted: Sep 1, 2015 at 9:06 Quote
Need to work on keeping the tungsten the same distance away from the tube.
WIP Shot - frame detail. Etched gussets
WIP Shot - frame details - etched Seat stay bridge
flag madm3chanic
Posted: Sep 2, 2015 at 5:22 Quote
the other thing i just noticed about the green one is that the seat tube angle seems realllly steep- looks like 74 or 75 degree's, tho it might just be a trick of the frame position in the photo of course. does it climb ok?

i did a 73.5 degree on my last personal frame but i really wanna get my next one down to 72 cause i still find im slamming my seat back on its rails as far as it'll go. but if i extend the reach more to compensate for the steeper seat angle, the bike becomes too long and steers like shit when i'm standing/cornering cause my weight is pulled too far forward, especially on 750mm bars/35mm stem and i just end up adding shims to increase the stack height. bikes are very complicated when you really start getting picky with geo...

on other matters, how do you etch the gussets yourself?
flag djrider123
Posted: Sep 3, 2015 at 16:58 Quote
Lots of nice frames being built in this thread! Heres one of mine finished in matte clear.

photo
flag BungedUP
O+
Posted: Sep 3, 2015 at 20:48 Quote
Clean! Super nice.
flag jacobaffreux
O+
Posted: Sep 6, 2015 at 7:58 Quote
Bike number 3!

Fatbike made to fit 4.8" tires, has a 177x12mm DT Swiss rear axle and adapted to fit the RockShox Bluto fork!

I have a few cable guides to put on, and a small bridge between the seattube and toptube. Electricity shut down yesterday when I was finishing -__-

Heading off to the paint this week!

Bike number 3
Bike number 3
flag thisguyalex
Posted: Sep 6, 2015 at 10:11 Quote
Nice, I like the seat stay design. It looks like it would solve the issue I'm having with my fatbike. When standing and pedaling or descending the insides of my knees get beat to high hell by the squared off design on mine.
flag madm3chanic
Posted: Sep 6, 2015 at 16:49 Quote
nice- is that the first fatty on this forum?

does the chain ring clear the driveside chainstay? that thing comes out pretty aggressively...
flag housem8d
O+
Posted: Sep 6, 2015 at 19:03 Quote
All these frames look super clean! I was just wondering what is the simplest way to jig some mild steel tubes in a triangle shape?

I want to practice my tig welding with steel tubes before going to 4130 tubing with a proper jig for a proper frame.
flag jacobaffreux
O+
Posted: Sep 7, 2015 at 15:16 Quote
madm3chanic wrote:
nice- is that the first fatty on this forum?

does the chain ring clear the driveside chainstay? that thing comes out pretty aggressively...

Not the first fatty! I posted my own about a year ago or something. This one is an updated version of mine basicaly. Same geo, different rear axle and made for the Bluto. Also has the hole to put a Reverb Stealth seatpost.

The chainring did not clear haha, it was missing only about 1mm though. I was waiting on the crank to finish it. I finished it this morning. Everything fits nicely and it has all the cable guides on!
flag flowerman7
Posted: Sep 11, 2015 at 1:02 Quote
What do people think of mig welding 4130? Some people say its fine, others say definitely not. I can mig well but have never used a TIG or brazed before.

Henry
flag EuanBisset145
Posted: Sep 11, 2015 at 3:20 Quote
Practice welding normal steel with tig for a while then take it to 4130. Mig is ok for strength in applications with heavier gauge steel where you can have bigger and hotter runs. For thin steel and especially on a bike frame mig isn't a great idea, it will hold the tubes together but there's a high chance it won't last long.
flag mrti
Posted: Sep 13, 2015 at 10:47 Quote
Just finished an AM hardtail frame for a friend:

photo
flag nitzsche
Posted: Sep 14, 2015 at 9:35 Quote
mrti wrote:
Just finished an AM hardtail frame for a friend:

photo

really nice!!

what tube diameters are you using and what thikness? 4130?

Thanks!
flag mrti
Posted: Sep 14, 2015 at 10:48 Quote
T/T is 32mm
D/T and S/T are 35mm (need to make a shim for the remote seatpost)
All tubes are PG 0.8mm 25CrMo4

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv56 0.027249
Mobile Version of Website