Suspension SETUP, a 'how to' guide...

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Suspension SETUP, a 'how to' guide...
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flag gramboh
O+
Posted: Sep 21, 2016 at 14:27 Quote
Thanks again guys.. I'm injured with a brand new bike so spending a lot of time going nuts on the details trying to get her setup for Whistler closing weekend Smile
flag gpgalanis
Posted: Sep 26, 2016 at 10:31 Quote
Hi guys. How would you suggest setting up my front and back suspension for steep technical trails with a lot of rocks, step downs etc?

Would stiffer and slower be the correct approach for the front suspension? Should the back suspension be slightly softer and forgiving?
flag WasabiJim
Posted: Sep 26, 2016 at 16:39 Quote
gpgalanis wrote:
Hi guys. How would you suggest setting up my front and back suspension for steep technical trails with a lot of rocks, step downs etc?

Would stiffer and slower be the correct approach for the front suspension? Should the back suspension be slightly softer and forgiving?

would have to know a bit more about your riding technique - what one person may roll out another may pop off. do you ride way off the back or keep a more neutral mid position?

for me, that fork stiffness you referred to would be a healthy degree of slow speed compression dampening not a stiffer spring rate. As your front gets hooked up and your weight slowly sinks forward you want to resist that gradual dive otherwise you just feed the problem more. sometimes you dive so deep and in slo-mo you near the tipping point and then the fork's rebound explodes....
flag gpgalanis
Posted: Sep 26, 2016 at 21:18 Quote
Usually I prefer to roll rather than pop and in most trails I am fine but when I enter really steep and slow (for me) parts with rocks, roots etc I seem to have some issues with the fork diving more than I want and unbalancing the bike and me.

Eventually as I learn those parts I can go faster and the faster I go the better the bike performs but for the initial runs I think that a stiffer and slower fork may give me more control over the rough parts without of course bouncing all over the place.

Regarding LSC which is a good advice for sure I have to admit that it doesn't seem to have much effect in my Pike RC.
flag WasabiJim
Posted: Sep 26, 2016 at 22:07 Quote
interesting, your thoughts on LSC

these guys doing Pike upgrades think the same, ref to point 1.
http://www.fast-suspension.co.uk/Charger-Damper-Kit.html

http://enduro-mtb.com/en/the-review-fast-suspension-3-way-factory-kit-for-the-rs-pike/

while i try not to set suspension for one particular scenario and have it compromised for the rest, you can try it stiffer and slower, but i don't think its the right approach. its like nullifying the point of having 5-6in of active travel when you need it the most and you'll be giving up the ability to have the wheel hug the dirt for better traction and steering control. maybe try one but not the other - keep in mind as you increase spring rate more rebound dampening is needed to maintain a consistent feel. the rear could benefit from less spring force and SLC so its sinking in rather that keeping high and you forward

tbh - may i suggest a focus on technique to be much more relaxed and confidently let the bike find its own way down. in dry Australia we don't get the greasy webs of root-death or slick wet rocks that I found when riding in the UK and BC. A tour guide (@DougBasquMTB) gave me that tip particularly for roots - let the wheels drift, expect it even. its cool. eventually they find a junction, knot, or something to grip. you watch the pro's and the bike is all over the place yet their head and centre of balance keep relatively anchored
flag gpgalanis
Posted: Sep 26, 2016 at 22:44 Quote
Thank you very much for your feedback guys.

When it comes to my bike setup (Enduro 29) I have already narrowed my options so I am just trying to find the best middle solution.

For example I am 99 kilos and I run 3 tokens in my 160mm Pike, 25-30% sag in the attack position and 8-10 rebound clicks from full slow depending on the trail.

Also in my Monarch Plus Debonair I run 9 bands (it came like this from the factory), 30-35% sag in the attack position and 4-6 rebound clicks from full slow depending on the trail.

I think that I may close to finding my sweet spot but I am still experimenting since I have recently lost 17 kilos (and still losing) so I have to keep changing my setup based on my continuously reduced weight (not that I complain it feels great).
flag chickendog
Posted: Sep 27, 2016 at 6:13 Quote
run your rebound as fast as you can stand.Rear a bit slower than the front,if your suspension doesn't extend before the next bump or root it will feel harsh and you cant maintain control cause your tire isn't touching the ground.I don't mean full speed rebound ,but I find faster rebound is smoother than slower ,find a middle ground.Racers run faster rather than slower
flag gpgalanis
Posted: Sep 27, 2016 at 6:20 Quote
The problem I have with faster rebound is the lack of traction when cornering since some times the front wheel wants to wash out.
flag chickendog
Posted: Sep 27, 2016 at 6:37 Quote
if your front wheel washes out from lack of traction it is probably cause there is not enough weight on it,to each his own but sometimes when you think the rebond is too fast in reality is too slow,just keep it in mind and don't get discouraged
flag gpgalanis
Posted: Sep 27, 2016 at 7:10 Quote
Thank you guys. I think that I have to try different settings in the same trails in order to find the sweet spot.
flag gramboh
O+
Posted: Sep 27, 2016 at 12:33 Quote
25-30% sag on the fork? That sounds like a lot, try a bit more air pressure in the front before tweaking anything else.
flag gpgalanis
Posted: Sep 27, 2016 at 13:48 Quote
I think that 25% isn't that much in the attack position and with 3 tokens installed. Anything less than that simply doesn't work correctly for general trail riding.
flag bikerboywill
Posted: Sep 27, 2016 at 14:36 Quote
I agree, I ride 15-20% on my boxxer and could probably run harder but pikes just don't have the same small bump. I've found the best is 25-30% with 3 tokens.
flag WasabiJim
Posted: Sep 27, 2016 at 18:44 Quote
25-30% sag is fine. however i keep an eye on the bottom out ring and aim to use all the travel several times on a normal ride. don't feel 100% is there for those 1 in 10 big hits. the Pike has factory HSC and will be fine.

chickendog wrote:
run your rebound as fast as you can stand.Rear a bit slower than the front,if your suspension doesn't extend before the next bump or root it will feel harsh and you cant maintain control cause your tire isn't touching the ground.I don't mean full speed rebound ,but I find faster rebound is smoother than slower ,find a middle ground.Racers run faster rather than slower

chickendog wrote:
if your front wheel washes out from lack of traction it is probably cause there is not enough weight on it,to each his own but sometimes when you think the rebond is too fast in reality is too slow,just keep it in mind and don't get discouraged


agree 2x

and a drifty front wheel doesn't have to be a bad thing! tup Helmet
no traction or pointing 1 way but going another does not always mean no control. if you ride dry or dusty trails i find listening to the tires gives an added sensory input - there is a difference between getting the shoulders to bite, the start of a cheeky drift, nearly pealing the rear off the rim with a hi-g snap, or one end doing more cornering work than it needs to

if you feel the front washing out, try get the rear (WITHOUT a fistful of break) to go with it. you'll naturally get your weight forward, engage more body english in the turn and recruit a bit more rear in the turning action. at the same time say something kung-fu - "uss-sah" works for me!
flag Snozz
Posted: Oct 12, 2016 at 0:36 Quote
Anybody using a Fox 34 FIT4 fork and finding it harsh, on both hits and chatter? I've put in 3 spacers to lower the pressure. It's really bugging me. I read in a review that the 2017 model has updated valving to make it more plush but that would be an expensive upgrade.

 


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