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flag airmiller44
O+
Posted: Sep 14, 2012 at 11:47 Quote
laynehip wrote:
airmiller44 wrote:
Charge262 wrote:
Guys, he rides this:

photo

Just let him do his thing, he clearly has some sort of issue.

why does it look so awkward? just because the rear 24 or does this have a way longer shock than its supposed to.

It has a way longer shock than it is supposed to.
I got it with a shock with a 7.5" eye to eye. And now it has a 10.5" eye to eye with a 3.5" stroke. It is awesome!

I wonder if that actually gives it less travel, i would think youre losing a bit of movement

also it would make your head angle steeper by a bit and raise the b.b. all effects you wouldnt really want for a big dropper.

my .2 cents i wont talk trash but i would consider a shorter shock
flag 3lfd3wd
Posted: Sep 14, 2012 at 18:17 Quote
Please can we just stop talking about that abomination?
flag intentbikes
Posted: Sep 14, 2012 at 19:49 Quote
psynide wrote:
Has anyone tried using 17-4ph stainless steel to build a bike (DJ)? I'm not an engineer, read the mech properties and its way stronger than 4130. I guess its quite similar to reynolds 953. I'm getting it kinda cheap here. So I was wondering, should I take the plunge.

Any suggestions, precautions, tips from the experts? I know its very hard to machine other than that any known issues?
Thanks!

no one?!Rolleyes
flag Honus
Posted: Sep 14, 2012 at 20:55 Quote
psynide wrote:
psynide wrote:
Has anyone tried using 17-4ph stainless steel to build a bike (DJ)? I'm not an engineer, read the mech properties and its way stronger than 4130. I guess its quite similar to reynolds 953. I'm getting it kinda cheap here. So I was wondering, should I take the plunge.

Any suggestions, precautions, tips from the experts? I know its very hard to machine other than that any known issues?
Thanks!

no one?!Rolleyes

I've used it but only for castings. Didn't even know 17-4 tubing existed. It it seam welded tubing? I really don't see much point in it unless you can get butted tubing. Since all steel alloys have pretty much the same modulus you'll just end up with heavier frame than if you used butted tubes. Generally speaking, if you can build a steel frame stiff enough then it will be strong enough. You can only make the tube wall so thin before you have localized buckling. Are you breaking 4130 frames and if so are they too light for you or your riding style? If they are breaking, where are they breaking?
flag intentbikes
Posted: Sep 14, 2012 at 22:49 Quote
The reason I was thinking about 17-4 is because, getting 4130 is so damn hard in our country ! There are a few companies making it, but for the kind of tube diameters I need, they want me to order a minimum of 25 metric tonnes !Dead Horse Confused The tubing is available in welded and seamless with 1mm wall.
flag madm3chanic
Posted: Sep 15, 2012 at 4:11 Quote
just order it on the internet and have it delivered??? any one of twenty sites will send it to you.
flag mozz
Posted: Sep 15, 2012 at 5:15 Quote
Ok iv been looking for a material data sheet for this alloy, and im not having much luck.

The only half decent one i could find is this one;

http://www.engineering-alloys.com/toolbox-material-data-sheets-uns-s17400-17-4PH-stainless-steel.htm

First thing that jumps out of the page it the % elongation at 5%...You really want something in the 8-12% range.

Find a decent sheet and i'll give a proper opinion.
flag intentbikes
Posted: Sep 15, 2012 at 6:43 Quote
Thanks guys !
madmech, I had ordered some cromo tubesets from the UK, the shipping costs is bearable, but the customs really robbed me of my savings !

mozz, will keep the elongation % in my mind from now on. I was just getting carried away by the ultimate and yield strengths. Thanks.

Here's some more data on 17-4 http://www.sandmeyersteel.com/images/17-4PH-Spec-Sheet.pdf

There is one material called P22 thats available here, what do you all think about this http://www.s-k-h.com/media/de/Service/Werkstoffblaetter_englisch/Kesselrohre_EN/10CrMo910_P22_T22_engl.pdf is it stronger or atleast as strong as 4130 ?

I really dont want to go for 1020 hi tensile, its found on cheesy bikes here.
flag Shoe2190
O+
Posted: Sep 15, 2012 at 9:45 Quote
Seems its maybe another name for F22 which is a grade of steel used allot in the oil industry (as is 4130) so your probably good to use it but when we buy it its pretty expensive.
flag madm3chanic
Posted: Sep 15, 2012 at 17:13 Quote
can you get hold of any of the CDV steels in tubes? even the 15cdv6 is pretty knarly stuff.

only problem is the cost...i bought two meters of it a while back for downtubes, cost me $240 Madder
flag mozz
Posted: Sep 15, 2012 at 18:17 Quote
madm3chanic wrote:
can you get hold of any of the CDV steels in tubes? even the 15cdv6 is pretty knarly stuff.

only problem is the cost...i bought two meters of it a while back for downtubes, cost me $240 Madder

Dude be carful buying 15CDV6, its really dependant on post forming treatments, look for 15CDV6.4 and 15CDV6.5 as anything below is cheese and .7+ will revert back to .4/5 in the HAZ so you'll be wasting money.

Also look at the chemical composition of 15CDV6 and Renyolds 853....
flag intentbikes
Posted: Sep 15, 2012 at 18:31 Quote
Hey, Thanks for all the info guys ! Will look at these materials as well, hope I dont get to hear another " minimum order of 25 metric tonnes" Eek
flag turtlesauce2000
Posted: Sep 16, 2012 at 10:15 Quote
A 20" huck bike would be banter haha. I would make one for fun out of an old frame but i wouldnt spend anything over £50 making it Razz
flag iknoweverythingaboutbikes
Posted: Sep 18, 2012 at 13:55 Quote
I'm thinking of building this. A 20in dirt jumper. long tt, long fork, 3in rise bars, and low head angle. Any opinions? I think it would combine the benefits of a dirt jumper and a bmx.
20in dirt jumper prototype

 


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