Bobanek

Saddle clamp not compatible with Specialized Power mirror saddles with carbon railings

@henryquinney: thanks for responding to the off the subject question . A kid of a friend of mine races and he recommended me to get my saddle ~2" down from what i used to ride . I noticed that i have started to load different muscle groups but was able to push more power, pedal better though the turns and totally agree about the stability in the turns I have gained nimbleness . Will try your advice. Cheers!

@henryquinney:I think next review shall be how high should be your seat post and what is the optimal position for power delivery, or long rides? There is the unwritten rule "you hell shall be just touching the pedal when you are on the saddle" but is this the real case ?Thanks!

@codypup: I clearly understand the attraction of the BLING, I like the look of it too , but it comes with a fox dropper and that's a No-No for me . A German brand like CANYON shall be able to put their hands on some good deal Bike Yoke posts .. if only they can listen and please for US offer the CFR with the CFR LTD components

@sfarnum: good point , just once 2 years ago. I usually replace the jacket and the cable once/ twice per year so I will not be the typical user either. Actuation though on all my dropper remotes is done by puling the cable straight out of the cable jacket where with the new WT actuator you yank it sideways and the cable will rub on the stainless steel bushing , which is not accidentally stainless steel instead of brass ,plastic, or any other softer material than the cable material ...Lose cable screw can also be another cause . I did not want to sound critical but we are being fed the idea that because it is new or different it is better. No one mention the ergonomic of the application and the fact that you do not have a determined rotation plane of the lever but it is rather like a joystick that your thumb must push quite precisely and perpendicular in order to get straight actuation is strange ...There will be people who love it there will be people who hate it I just mentioned a design flow that i see

So you break the cable -> you loose the lever. Highly likely failure mode because the cable passes though a stainless steel bushing that is between the barrel adjuster and lever, and the cable is not pulled straight but rather bend rubbing against that stainless steel edge . How many cycles it would take to brake the first strand and then the next .... good animation on the WT web page but guys put some engendering behind... back it up with engage/disengage cycles test results ...do a FMEA. $60 for a lever and a clamp is a bit too much