TectonicComponents

@kestrel: The business end of each traction pin is standard M3 coarse thread, which our testing showed to be the best balance of traction versus sole shredding. Some shoes fare better than others, but we feel this pedal offers enough grip that you can go with a less grippy shoe if that suits your fancy. Servicing a pedal with an inner DU bushing can be a pain, which is why our previous pedals used an inboard bearing. We took care to protect the inboard seal with the Alibi, and will be offering a tool to aid in the removal and installation of a fresh bushing.

@JustinVP: Great question. We have replacement spindles in stock, as well as traction pin kits and bearing/bushing kits for more normal wear and tear situations.

@justinfoil: There is one bolt for each dual-sided traction pin, so it is exactly half as many threading operations as a typical design.

The traction pins are held in directly by bolts, no set screws involved, and no threads in the pedal body to damage. The hardware is M3 size so it doesn't take a miniscule wrench, and the bolt heads are safely recessed into the pedal body to avoid any damage. To date, e haven't seen a traction pin or bolt that cannot be removed and replaced.

The traction pins are dual-sided, and pass all the way through the pedal body. They are have a threaded hole in the center, and are retained by bolt that loads from the side of the pedal. The idea is to have a pedal body without any threads to retain the traction pins, as damaged traction pins are inevitable, and the small threads used to hold them in are easily damaged from the impact or from the subsequent removal. We don't want a pedal to be ruined or to run at reduced traction capacity because you can't replace a pin. The actual removal and installation process is much easier than tradition designs, which is a nice bonus. This is a patented design which we feel offers some real performance and usability benefits.

We experimented with a variety of pin profiles (hourglass, hexagonal, cylindrical, etc.) and found that a slight taper with a threaded tip for a serrated gripping surface was the best option for maximum traction without being overly aggressive. There are grooves lower on the pin that promote bending or snapping where it is least damaging to the pedal body, we also harden the pins so they are more inclined to snap off cleanly.

@warmerdamj: this guy gets it

@JosMaple: Thanks for the feedback. Watch this space; we want riders to feel 100% confident in these pedals.

try it now