gripitandpucker

Best thing about this bike is the color. This color is the bombshell redhead of the big travel bike game right now. But seriously... 2005 called, they want their regressive kinematics back.

@DaveG01: Yeah the initial impressions were... not ideal. But honestly now that I've gotten it sorted, it's a fantastic bike. I have a love/hate relationship with it.

I have a Fuji gravel bike that I built in 2018. The BB threads showed up full of burrs, I also suspect it is not cut in one machining step because it chews through BB bearings rapidly (sign of misalignment). The head tube was oval shaped, not round. The top bearing would not seat properly until you rode it which added slop and needed tightened multiple times each time I adjusted a spacer. I sanded that to fit the top bearing properly. When the rear wheel is removed, the chain stays bow inwards and do not maintain the rear axle spacing, so if you want to thread the axle in to keep from losing it when you have the rear wheel off, too bad. The exit holes for internal routing are poorly designed and are literally just a hole in the down tube; no guide, no grommet, no protection, nothing. I run housing sleeves all the time at the down tube exit to keep the cables from abrading/being abraded by the downtube itself. Once I solved those issues and started putting miles on the thing, I genuinely like how it rides and handles and it's been completely problem-free (outside of the BB bearing life). But it's going to take one hell of a bike for me to ever buy a Fuji again.

@conoat: as intended.

Hoppin' ain't cheatin' if it gets you up the hill!

Same! I know it's fun to hate on BigS, but they've really been knocking it out of the park lately.

Man, it's entertaining to watch Levy suffer and the Chamois-to-saddle friction comment made me laugh. Great job sticking within roughly +/- 1% power output on each of these. That's not easy to do across 10 or so efforts, but that keeps your inputs within the accuracy spec of the pedals in the first place and that's awesome control. Get that man a doughnut! That said, the low-hanging fruit I see for making this test hold a little more water is: 1) get a moving start before the first cone and continue on past the last cone, that way you're at steady state 300W for the entire timed portion of the test without any influence of acceleration or braking at the ends that might mess with the time averaged power that's displayed on your head unit. 2) carry a small pack with adjusted ballast to even out the weight for all bikes. In this case, it looks like the time lost by the Shore was a higher percentage than just its extra heft, so some of that definitely is suspension kinematics. Or don't. This is supposed to be bro science for fun, carrying ballast feels like it's crossing the line into "things road bikers would do" territory. I love these videos, please keep making them for us in your comparisons.

On the Specialized website, the BB standard is listed as "threaded". Anyone know if it's BSA or the new T47?

@PrivateerBikes, will there be a 111? Something to take the Epic EVO head on?

@Staktup: I think you answered your own question here. The 27.5 wheel of the P1 size is going to require more head tube length than the 29er of the P2 for a similar stack, and stack only changes a little bit as you move up one size in the range.