jackp

I think there are many ways MGU's could evolve. As mentioned, eCVT could eliminate all the change gears, and then thru user controls/app set the mode of either fixed gears or continuous, how many fixed gears and their spacing, etc. I was thinking that maybe like BEV's very few or no gears could be possible, but I think that would create a cadence problem for the ride. So far all the news on MGU's are full power. I for one would love to see light weight lower powered MGU.

I suspect the climbing traction issue may be caused by the larger rear pulley affecting the suspension kinematics. I have a first gen Taniwha with the Pinion gearbox and chain drive and feel traction on the climbs is a strong suit.

Fat bike for the snowy winter months.

@thekaiser: I have been one of the people test riding this pedal system and I mostly ride rocky trails and hike a bike has not been an issue. The rock in my area is predominantly limestone, so not the hardest, but I think as long as the rock isn't polished, grip shouldn't be an issue.

@Jayschipp: The sole of the boot isn't hard to the pedal and the studs penetrate any snow on the pedal or under the boot so the grip remains great.

I applaud a FS trail bike that can handle 29x3.0, my favourite tire size. We need more of them.

It is recommended to mark the frame for center top and bottom, and align the cups to these center lines. A small error shouldn't be a problem, but the handling may get weird if the front wheels is not on the center of the bike. In terms of adding stack, it depends on the options selected. The nominal 1.0 degree kit does not add any stack compared to a standard ZS headset. The nominal 2.5 degree kit adds about 8mm at the crown race and about 6mm at the stem. With the intermediate kits you can mix and match the upper and lower cup options to control where stack is added. With slackening the fork, and if no stack is added at the crown race, the BB will drop a bit. The other options will either keep the BB unchanged or slightly raise it.

The cups in the 9point8 Slack-R kits accommodate the full range of head tube lengths while keeping the upper and lower bearings square to the steer tube so the bearings run free. I would suggest cups designed for a specific subset of headtube lengths should not be used on headtubes outside this range.

There are options of nominally 1.0, about 1.6, about 1.9, and nominally 2.5 depending on how you pair the ZS and EC upper and lower cup options, and then the actual head tube length will affect the achieved head angle change, hence the total range quoted. The benefit of the 2 middle options is deciding if you prefer to raise or lower the BB with the head angle change. An EC top and ZS bottom will lower the BB a bit, and a ZS top and EC bottom will lower the BB a bit. Agreed that 2.8 is pretty extreme, but is simply pairing the EC upper and lower option.

@LukeDeGriselles: Actually if you use the ZS lower and EC upper combo, the BB will lower if installed in the slackening orientation. If you pick the opposite, so EC lower and ZS upper, the BB will come up a bit, and if you opt for the EC upper and lower pair, the BB will stay in about the same spot. Of course how much these slacken the head angle will be different depending on the pairings.