Pictured above: 2011 FOX Float RLC FiT with Standard air shaft and shims.
I couldn't find a thread on this, so here's my first draft. I've put this together to centralize info/ discussion. This is for the most part a summary of what I have found available on the internet.
Please comment. I will be happy to add/subtract/address information the current version
Model Year Information: -- this is from the FOX service department via email: MTBService@ridefox.com 2007-2012 models can be decreased as much as you would like. 2013-2014 36 160mm models can only be decreased by up to 20mm unless you replace the air spring with the 2011-2012 air spring. 2015 36 can be lowered up to 50mm from its original travel in 10mm increments.
Notes: Red - 10wt: Used solely in the older 'Open Bath' forks and internally in closed circuit damper cartridges Gold- 20wt: Lower leg bath oil
Tools you will need 32mm Wrench 10mm Wrench Torque Wrench Plastic Faced Mallet Long thin shaft screw driver Measuring Device (for new oil) Oil pan (for old oil) High Pressure shock pump
Steps: 1. Release the air from the fork (blue cap/ left fork leg) 2. Remove left top cap with a 32mm wrench 3. Place oil pan under the left fork leg 4. Loosen left lower nut with 10mm fork leg 5. Allow oil to drain into the oil pan 6. Compress the fork as much as possible 7. Use a long thin shaft screw driver to push the air shaft up and out of the left fork leg 8. Snap FOX spacers onto the air shaft between the negative spring guide and the top out plate 9. Use the float fluid pillow packet to lubricate the seal at the top of the air spring. Only use a little bit as you will be using more of this fluid later 10. Lower the internals back into the left leg of the fork. Do not push the shaft through the bottom hole of the fork. 11. Turn the fork upside down. 12. Use your measuring container for 30ml of your FOX suspension fluid (10wt) 13. Pour the fork fluid into the left leg of the fork through the bottom of the fork 14. Push the air shaft assembly up using the handle of your hammer until the other end pokes through the fork leg 15. Install the NEW crush washer and bottom nut. Torque the nut to 50 in-lbs/ 5.7Nm. 16. Turn the fork right side up 17. Pour 95% of the FOX Float pillow packet into the top of the left fork leg 18. Use the remainder of the FOX Float pillow packet to lubricate the o-ring on the top cap of the fork. 19. Install the top cap. 20. Torques the top cap to 165 in-lbs or 187.7Nm 21. Use a high pressure shock pump to add desired air pressure to the fork. 22. Install the blue top cap. 23. Cycle the fork to ensure proper operation of the fork. 24. Ride you bike!
As a general recommendation: If you do not own a torque wrench or are a triathlete, GO TO YOUR LOCAL BICYCLE SHOP TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL HELP.
FOX Service Contact servicenv@ridefox.com (FOX US West Coast) serviceavl@ridefox.com (FOX US East Coast)) foxservice@ridefox.com (FOX Canada) ukservice@ridefox.com (FOX UK)
GENERAL DISCLAIMER: I MAKE NO GUARANTEE OF VALIDITY OF THIS INFORMATION This thread is merely a summary of information and is here simply to develop a common resource of knowledge and discussion. Please be advised that nothing found here has necessarily been reviewed by people with the expertise required to provide you with complete, accurate or reliable information. That is not to say that you will not find valuable and accurate information in this thread; much of the time you will. However, there is no guarantee of the validity of the information found here.
I don't get why they call for different wt oil if the lower spring side is open bath. Isn't it just for lubricating purposes? I figure higher weight would be more desirable for this.
Just the information I needed! Fox new zealand told me they wouldn't lower mine as they were not supposed to be lowered.. even though fox germany lowered them in the first place? Looks easy enough to do it yourself though so I'll give it a go!
I managed to travel my 36 from 2013 by simply adding to the shim with a bit of ridged hose pipe with a big enough diameter, it works ok just the characteristics of the float system are quite different now. Its not as progressive so you have to ride it with a lot of pressure. Ok for dirt jumps but not for trail riding. Am contemplating buying and old 36 from 2009 and degrading the float system so I can travel it down without the side effects. I hope.
I got a 2014 36 float, can I just get a regular pre 2013 air shaft and add spacers or do I need to get a an air shaft designed for 100mm from pre 2013? (edit) i realize specific travel length air springs are only for 2015+ forks now. so im pretty sure if i can just find and air spring from a 2010-2012and buy or make some spacers i should be good to go? am i missing anything?
I managed to travel my 36 from 2013 by simply adding to the shim with a bit of ridged hose pipe with a big enough diameter, it works ok just the characteristics of the float system are quite different now. Its not as progressive so you have to ride it with a lot of pressure. Ok for dirt jumps but not for trail riding. Am contemplating buying and old 36 from 2009 and degrading the float system so I can travel it down without the side effects. I hope.[/Quote
did you have any trouble with seals blowing out? whats psi in the fork? was it springy like a pogo stick or still have decent rebound dampening?
I’m looking to Lower my 2013 36 fit RC2 also and would like to find the 2012 air spring and other parts to do the job. I already have the tools. Anyone have a lead on those parts?
Fox has discontinued their Travel spacers for the old forks. You will need to buy Rockshox All travel spacer kit and cut a slice in them just like fox's
Here is the bike that was done with the Rockshox travel spacers. Also is a picture of the Original Fox Spacers to show the slit that is from the factory.