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Fox talas 36 RC2

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Fox talas 36 RC2
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flag voltagerider
Posted: Dec 5, 2010 at 15:07 Quote
hampsteadbandit wrote:
have you regularly serviced your 08 36 Float?

(I service my Fox forks every 20-30 hours using Fox fluids)

if not regularly serviced the forks will get kinda sticky would which definitely negate the difference in small bump sensitivity between Float and Talas


both forks havnt been service for the whole season of riding... You change your float fluid every 20-30 hours???
flag hampsteadbandit
Posted: Dec 7, 2010 at 12:41 Quote
yeah, I do this regularly, it makes a massive difference to fork performance

a problem with not servicing your suspension regularly, is that it degrades slowly, meaning you will not notice any real problem as you get used to the way your forks feel

until something breaks or starts leaking! and then it gets expensive to fix

if you damage (wear away under the seals) the fork stanchions from lack of servicing you are looking at a new CSU (crown/steerer/uppers) which is real expensive for Fox forks Frown


if you suddenly service your forks (after a long time of no servicing) you will be amazed at the difference when your forks are back on your bike


check out Fox's service information:"service intervals"

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm
flag voltagerider
Posted: Dec 7, 2010 at 13:24 Quote
hampsteadbandit wrote:
yeah, I do this regularly, it makes a massive difference to fork performance

a problem with not servicing your suspension regularly, is that it degrades slowly, meaning you will not notice any real problem as you get used to the way your forks feel

until something breaks or starts leaking! and then it gets expensive to fix

if you damage (wear away under the seals) the fork stanchions from lack of servicing you are looking at a new CSU (crown/steerer/uppers) which is real expensive for Fox forks Frown


if you suddenly service your forks (after a long time of no servicing) you will be amazed at the difference when your forks are back on your bike


check out Fox's service information:"service intervals"

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm

Except that I take REALLY good care of my forks like I remove dirt from seals frekently with a curdent so its all clean.Smile But I think my talas is more in the need of service that my float especially because it got way more rides too (including a 3 weeks trip in BC, whistler, the stars etc.)Big Grin
flag WasabiJim
Posted: Dec 7, 2010 at 18:31 Quote
its great you like your 36 as a float more than talas because of how it feels dealing with small / initial inputs.

But i have to say i feel that this characteristic is overrated by some without considering other aspects of performance.

Its obvious you ride a lot and don’t just judge a fork by how it feels in the car park when, yes initial movement is important as its really all you can measure. but when bombing gnar at warp 2 trying to deal with steering, braking, weight management/balance, drops, kickers, show stopping trail obstacles etc, small bump compliance is the least of my worries...

I'm yet to hear any major differentiation between float vs Talas in this regard

I have an older 32 float, great small bump performance but I still blows, I don’t rate it - Dives thru mid travel to ramp up stupidly in final stage of stroke
flag voltagerider
Posted: Dec 7, 2010 at 18:37 Quote
on another note my 36 talas RC2 felt better than my previous 36 van r both out of the box.
flag hampsteadbandit
Posted: Dec 8, 2010 at 13:07 Quote
Its obvious you ride a lot and don’t just judge a fork by how it feels in the car park when, yes initial movement is important as its really all you can measure. but when bombing gnar at warp 2 trying to deal with steering, braking, weight management/balance, drops, kickers, show stopping trail obstacles etc, small bump compliance is the least of my worries...

its very noticeable when I ride a particular section of trail at the end of my local ride 3-4 times a week - its a steep downhill across a rutted grass field that has a feint singletrack

with the Talas fork and the rear of my bike's Fox RP23 pro-pedal "off" the rear would do its best to track the rutted ground, but the fork almost felt rigid at high speed with lots of chatter going into my handlebar, I would adopt a loose grip on the bars to try and minimise this effect

with the Float conversion riding this same piece of trail is completely different, I can grip my bars without the chatter and my bike is tracking the rutted ground front and rear balance is now equal

its something (the Float vs. Talas issue) that has been mentioned many times in UK magazines including MBUK, What MTB, MBR and Dirt with the mags always recommending the Float unless you 'must have' travel adjustment, at the expense of small bump performance

this is something I had always been sceptical of, until trying it on my own bike
flag voltagerider
Posted: Dec 8, 2010 at 15:02 Quote
The only downside I've really notice on my talas compared to the float is the rebound... I'm running it all the way up (the fastest) and its not fast enough... Dont know why.
flag voltagerider
Posted: Dec 23, 2010 at 11:37 Quote
Ok so its winter time so I'm in the need of rebuilding my 36 talas RC2. I've got a couple of questions before starting...
I was lookin on fox' website for oil volumes and it says that:

FOX 10 wt./ Damper/ 100.0 Rebound side upper leg?
FOX 7 wt. /Damper-side Oil Bath /25.0 Rebound side lower leg?
FOX 7 wt./ Spring-side Oil Bath/ 15.0 Right lower leg?
FOX Float Fluid /Main Chamber /3.0

FOX Float Fluid /Neg Chamber /3.0

Now my question is where are all those located: Damper / Damper-side Oil Bath / Spring-side Oil Bath / Main Chamber / Neg Chamber

Thanks alot.Smile
flag WasabiJim
Posted: Dec 23, 2010 at 16:21 Quote
i think you are looking a the wrong fork stats.
the FIT (Fox Isolation Technology) dampening unit used in the 36 RC2 is completely sealed in a rumber bladder. the FIT controls rebound and the 2 types of compression 1)lo-speed, 2)hi-spped, hence RC2 (Rebound and Compression x2).
The unit separates or 'isolates' dampening oil fron lube oil. in open-bath designs its the same oil that does both. Its only the lube you can change yourself with out getting into the FIT unit, which is not recommended unless you are like a black belt bike mechanic employed by fox.

The simplist service you can do invloves chaning out the lube oil in the lower sliders on both sides. you should find youtube tutes on 'popping' the lowers off the slider retaining rods at the botton of the fork and tipping oil out via the threaded end holes, then topping the oil levels as per the 36 TALAS manual.

then remove valve core from the air chamber, drain out oil and top up.

Going up a level in skill - you could pull the sliders right off so you can replace the dust seals and foam rings. again youtube it.

For advanced home mechanics you can take replace the o-rings and seals in the air chamber and TALAS piece.

hope that helps
flag voltagerider
Posted: Dec 23, 2010 at 19:06 Quote
I know how to get the lowers off and I just need to change oil and maybe clean the foam rings and seals at the same time...
flag WasabiJim
Posted: Dec 24, 2010 at 4:57 Quote
voltagerider wrote:
I know how to get the lowers off and I just need to change oil and maybe clean the foam rings and seals at the same time...

yep.
if you have the lowers off maybe get a set of replacement seals to put on while you're at it, some people rate the endro brand replacements, i dont know much about them
flag voltagerider
Posted: Dec 24, 2010 at 11:05 Quote
WasabiJim wrote:
voltagerider wrote:
I know how to get the lowers off and I just need to change oil and maybe clean the foam rings and seals at the same time...

yep.
if you have the lowers off maybe get a set of replacement seals to put on while you're at it, some people rate the endro brand replacements, i dont know much about them

I know that they arnt good for the 36... They actually wear the stantions quite fast! My seals are alright.
flag nathanbalsdon
O+
Posted: Dec 24, 2010 at 11:56 Quote
voltagerider wrote:
Ok so its winter time so I'm in the need of rebuilding my 36 talas RC2. I've got a couple of questions before starting...
I was lookin on fox' website for oil volumes and it says that:

FOX 10 wt./ Damper/ 100.0 Rebound side upper leg?
FOX 7 wt. /Damper-side Oil Bath /25.0 Rebound side lower leg?
FOX 7 wt./ Spring-side Oil Bath/ 15.0 Right lower leg?
FOX Float Fluid /Main Chamber /3.0

FOX Float Fluid /Neg Chamber /3.0

Now my question is where are all those located: Damper / Damper-side Oil Bath / Spring-side Oil Bath / Main Chamber / Neg Chamber

Thanks alot.Smile

the 100cc of 10wt is the oil actually inside the closed damper cartridge. I would ignor the 100cc and just make sire it is full to the very top.
the 7wt in both sides is the lubrication fluid that sides in the lowers. The rebound side oil can be added from either the top or bottom but the talas side oil must added from the bottom.
The float fluid volumes are inside the talas assembly. The negative chamber is located between the main piston and the lower seal head. The main chamber is above the main piston.
Don't open the talas assembly unless you know what you are doing and have an IFP charging tool. There is a secondary air chamber with 150ish psi that requires special tools to recharge and if the chamber isn't properly released the talas assembly can explode and will likely cause damage to the talas assembly
flag voltagerider
Posted: Dec 24, 2010 at 13:41 Quote
nathanbalsdon wrote:
voltagerider wrote:
Ok so its winter time so I'm in the need of rebuilding my 36 talas RC2. I've got a couple of questions before starting...
I was lookin on fox' website for oil volumes and it says that:

FOX 10 wt./ Damper/ 100.0 Rebound side upper leg?
FOX 7 wt. /Damper-side Oil Bath /25.0 Rebound side lower leg?
FOX 7 wt./ Spring-side Oil Bath/ 15.0 Right lower leg?
FOX Float Fluid /Main Chamber /3.0

FOX Float Fluid /Neg Chamber /3.0

Now my question is where are all those located: Damper / Damper-side Oil Bath / Spring-side Oil Bath / Main Chamber / Neg Chamber

Thanks alot.Smile

the 100cc of 10wt is the oil actually inside the closed damper cartridge. I would ignor the 100cc and just make sire it is full to the very top.
the 7wt in both sides is the lubrication fluid that sides in the lowers. The rebound side oil can be added from either the top or bottom but the talas side oil must added from the bottom.
The float fluid volumes are inside the talas assembly. The negative chamber is located between the main piston and the lower seal head. The main chamber is above the main piston.
Don't open the talas assembly unless you know what you are doing and have an IFP charging tool. There is a secondary air chamber with 150ish psi that requires special tools to recharge and if the chamber isn't properly released the talas assembly can explode and will likely cause damage to the talas assembly

Ok big thanks. And I dont need to touch the talas cartridge at all... I just need to take off the lowers for seals/foam rings and put oil. Thanks.
flag StefanNielsen
Posted: Jan 5, 2011 at 23:02 Quote
Sorry i know im slightly off topic here, but you guys seems like the right ones to ask. Currently im running a VAN RC2 2011, but find it bottoms out to eazy. Anybody tried thicker oil in the compression damper ? and how does one swap it ?

thanks

 


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