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Suspension SETUP, a 'how to' guide...

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Suspension SETUP, a 'how to' guide...
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Posted: May 4, 2015 at 8:28 Quote
reduce the pressure and add bottom out tokens. Reduce the compression a couple of clicks aswell

Posted: May 4, 2015 at 15:08 Quote
alinorco2010 wrote:
Hey,

Don't know if this is going to make any sense but what adjustments should I make to reduce arm pump? Running about 10 psi above minimum pressure. Fork is Pike RCT3.

Cheers,
Ali
Not gripping the bars as hard helps a lot

Posted: May 4, 2015 at 15:43 Quote
alinorco2010 wrote:
Hey,

Don't know if this is going to make any sense but what adjustments should I make to reduce arm pump? Running about 10 psi above minimum pressure. Fork is Pike RCT3.

Cheers,
Ali

Try different thickness grips. I'm sure some people will disagree, but personally I think the whole big hands=big grips thing is bollocks. I find the more closed my hands are the less fatigue I feel so I go for the thinnest grips possible that aren't rock hard. Try push on (not lock on) odi ruffians or renthal kevlar grips. They are thin, soft and cheap, so worth a punt even if it doesn't solve the problem.

position your brake levers properly. Not angled too high or low. Having the backs of your hands roughly in line with the tops of your forearms when in the attack position is about right. Perhaps angled up very slightly from there as you tend to lean back while braking and don't want to be reaching for the levers.
Position your levers about an inch to 2 inches inboard of your grips, so that your index finger sits comfortably in the little upturned flick at the end of the lever blade. Play with your reach and bite point so that you arent over-reaching for the lever, and the lever is pretty close to the bar, but not touching when you are pulling the brakes hard.

Bar width and rise/sweep affects things a little. Roll your bars back and forward in the stem or experiment with different bars.

Do push ups. Get a grip exerciser. Take up bouldering.

(seriously, bouldering is a hardcore forearm workout. I can ride DH all day every day for two weeks with little or no arm pump. I can climb on the climbing wall for about an hour before my hands turn into crab claws)

O+
Posted: May 4, 2015 at 16:08 Quote
This guy ^^. Spot on stuff sire.

Posted: May 4, 2015 at 21:56 Quote
Going through my bikes manual, it has this disclaimer


"WARNING: The FSRxc frame is compatible
ONLY with single crown forks that have travel
of 5.1” (130mm) or less.
Use of different styled forks or forks with
longer travel may result in catastrophic failure
of the frame which may result in serious
personal injury or death."


My frame is from 2007 and I planned on getting a 140-150mm fork. Anyone know how relevant the warning is?

Posted: May 5, 2015 at 11:07 Quote
Yes. Follow the warning. Better question is: are you planning on going big on your Xc bike? Specialized makes the stumpjumper which might be more applicable for the job(you can also fit the 150mm fork that you're planning on getting).

Posted: May 5, 2015 at 19:37 Quote
jonus216 wrote:
Yes. Follow the warning. Better question is: are you planning on going big on your Xc bike? Specialized makes the stumpjumper which might be more applicable for the job(you can also fit the 150mm fork that you're planning on getting).

I ride the front range (Colorado) and I just wanted something to hold up on bigger drops. Nothing over 5ft

Posted: May 5, 2015 at 21:01 Quote
Do it. Check your frame after every ride. As long as you stay smooth, bike might be alright.

Posted: May 6, 2015 at 7:49 Quote
Do you think 130mm will be sufficient?

Posted: May 6, 2015 at 8:19 Quote
hospital wrote:
Do you think 130mm will be sufficient?

What fork is it you have at the moment?

A good quality 130mm fork is really quite capable, the travel doesn't make a huge difference, though it is an important factor.

Posted: May 6, 2015 at 18:01 Quote
mini-freerider wrote:
hospital wrote:
Do you think 130mm will be sufficient?

What fork is it you have at the moment?

A good quality 130mm fork is really quite capable, the travel doesn't make a huge difference, though it is an important factor.
On the rig right now is an older rock shox dart. (130-140mm and it's coil)

Posted: May 7, 2015 at 5:43 Quote
hospital wrote:
mini-freerider wrote:
hospital wrote:
Do you think 130mm will be sufficient?

What fork is it you have at the moment?

A good quality 130mm fork is really quite capable, the travel doesn't make a huge difference, though it is an important factor.
On the rig right now is an older rock shox dart. (130-140mm and it's coil)

Yeah, most modern forks will perform so much better that you'll not be as concerned about the travel.

Posted: May 7, 2015 at 19:40 Quote
mini-freerider wrote:

Yeah, most modern forks will perform so much better that you'll not be as concerned about the travel.
I've been scoping craigslist and here for a cheap one but they're tough to find. Insane people are paying $1,000 for forks....

Posted: May 7, 2015 at 19:51 Quote
hospital wrote:
mini-freerider wrote:

Yeah, most modern forks will perform so much better that you'll not be as concerned about the travel.
I've been scoping craigslist and here for a cheap one but they're tough to find. Insane people are paying $1,000 for forks....
You get what you pay for. I wouldn't consider spending less, aside from Xfusions offerings.

Posted: May 7, 2015 at 19:55 Quote
Clarkeh wrote:
hospital wrote:
mini-freerider wrote:

Yeah, most modern forks will perform so much better that you'll not be as concerned about the travel.
I've been scoping craigslist and here for a cheap one but they're tough to find. Insane people are paying $1,000 for forks....
You get what you pay for. I wouldn't consider spending less, aside from Xfusions offerings.
I guess unless you're rich/sponsored/competitive it doesn't make sense to me...but I have too many hobbies to drop money on. If biking was my #1 I'd probably have a different perspective.


 


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