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2022 Epic Evo

PB Forum :: Specialized
2022 Epic Evo
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flag BenLow2019
Posted: Nov 7, 2023 at 9:00 Quote
ramymcc22 wrote:
Hey folks.

I need some help. Thinking of upgrading the FSA headset on my 22 comp. Id like a Chris King headset. Has anyone fitted one, what one do I need and what has your experience been with it ???

All advice greatly appreciated. Iv had zero issues with the stock FSA headset it came with but I do clean and regrease it a good bit. Irish weather can be hard on parts.

Thanks, Ray.

Headset instructions are here.

Watch a couple videos. Make sure you have good tools. Easy job.

Hope that helps.
flag Niz55
Posted: Nov 23, 2023 at 11:24 Quote
Has anyone switch the rear rotor from 180mm to 160mm? Trying to save as much as weight but don't want to hurt braking.
flag jfranci3
Posted: Nov 27, 2023 at 9:31 Quote
Niz55 wrote:
Has anyone switch the rear rotor from 180mm to 160mm? Trying to save as much as weight but don't want to hurt braking.

In the rear, the big difference would be lock up control / initial bite feel. The 160mm would be less prone to lock up if you give it too hard of a grab. The trade off is heat management on long, repeated braking. Since its the rear, overall braking power is greatly limited by the rear tires traction. I don't think you'd save meaningful weight though - 25-30gr?
flag xaos
Posted: Nov 27, 2023 at 12:22 Quote
26 Grams on my scales for Centerline X rotors plus MAYBE 2-5 grams on the smaller brake mount?

Unless you are running SUPER light XC Race tires I wouldnt consider it (dont think I would consider it anyway). I find the G2s struggle as is for my 170 lbs and going down in rotor size would only serve to overheat the system and throw your modulation out the window for a straight up death grip/ increased arm pump. I run 160 rotors on my Gravel bike with 45mm semi slicks and they are perfect for that, and really only that.

Bottom line, the capabilities of the Epic Evo Frameset far exceed a 160 rotor.
flag xaos
Posted: Nov 27, 2023 at 12:33 Quote
FYI if it was more of a Can than a Should question, the owners manuel does state that the frameset supports 160 or 180 rear rotors. So it is a preference choice and as always its your bike to setup and play with however is the most fun for you!
flag knutspeed
Posted: Nov 28, 2023 at 3:47 Quote
Niz55 wrote:
Has anyone switch the rear rotor from 180mm to 160mm? Trying to save as much as weight but don't want to hurt braking.

My MY 2021 Expert came with a 160 rear rotor. I briefly ran a 180, but reverted as I found my main issue were the G2R brakes. Switched levers to RSC and it helped a bit. Going to replace the Centerlines with HS2s to get less "modulation" aka free throw on the levers.

For the type of riding I do (XC), the brakes are fine except I'd like a lot less SRAM-style modulation.
flag xaos
Posted: Nov 28, 2023 at 6:18 Quote
knutspeed wrote:
Niz55 wrote:
Has anyone switch the rear rotor from 180mm to 160mm? Trying to save as much as weight but don't want to hurt braking.

My MY 2021 Expert came with a 160 rear rotor. I briefly ran a 180, but reverted as I found my main issue were the G2R brakes. Switched levers to RSC and it helped a bit. Going to replace the Centerlines with HS2s to get less "modulation" aka free throw on the levers.

For the type of riding I do (XC), the brakes are fine except I'd like a lot less SRAM-style modulation.

I am interpreting what you are saying as there is not enough ramp up in power and bite with the stock setup. Am I misinterpreting you?

If so I am confused why you went back to a 160? Then you say you want to go to a thicker heavier rotor (HS2) that is normally paired with a more powerful brake say Codes for your XC style riding to reduce free throw (which is not what modulation is, Modulation refers to the power band from when the pad first makes contact until the wheel locks up anything before that is free stroke anything after is pointless). Why would a HS2 rotor reduce free stroke?

Bummer that your Expert came with G2R but interested in you finding a real improvement by upgrading your levers. Do you attribute that to simply a better made lever or the additional adjustments that the RSC lever provides?
flag knutspeed
Posted: Nov 28, 2023 at 6:44 Quote
xaos wrote:
knutspeed wrote:
Niz55 wrote:
Has anyone switch the rear rotor from 180mm to 160mm? Trying to save as much as weight but don't want to hurt braking.

My MY 2021 Expert came with a 160 rear rotor. I briefly ran a 180, but reverted as I found my main issue were the G2R brakes. Switched levers to RSC and it helped a bit. Going to replace the Centerlines with HS2s to get less "modulation" aka free throw on the levers.

For the type of riding I do (XC), the brakes are fine except I'd like a lot less SRAM-style modulation.

I am interpreting what you are saying as there is not enough ramp up in power and bite with the stock setup. Am I misinterpreting you?

If so I am confused why you went back to a 160? Then you say you want to go to a thicker heavier rotor (HS2) that is normally paired with a more powerful brake say Codes for your XC style riding to reduce free throw (which is not what modulation is, Modulation refers to the power band from when the pad first makes contact until the wheel locks up anything before that is free stroke anything after is pointless). Why would a HS2 rotor reduce free stroke?

Bummer that your Expert came with G2R but interested in you finding a real improvement by upgrading your levers. Do you attribute that to simply a better made lever or the additional adjustments that the RSC lever provides?

Back to 160 was simply because I have two wheelsets, and just wanted to explore if running the 180 did anything to improve the brakes. I know the diff between modulation and free throw, but just don't like the SRAM Guiides or G2s because they do have a lot of free throw, and when they start biting there's just too much lever movement available - or modulation, so I have to pull so much my grip/bike control suffers. I prefer brakes to have nil free throw, and extremely little modulation. I know it's personal, guess it's a carry over from race cars where I liked a solid-feeling brake pedal. So I get along with Shimano brakes better.

The HS2 is thicker than the Centerline AFAIK. Even with new pads and a good bleed, I have to dial the RSC almost max out to avoid too much free throw. Initially the upgraded levers was because I had to re-index the G2s every two rides by removing the wheel, use a thin shim between the pads, and pump the pistons out. This was from the bike was brand new. On my other bikes with Shimano brakes, I run centerlines because they're thicker than the similarly-priced shimano rotors.

In general, the RSC G2s are good enough for my riding since I don't have any long descents. IMO a major improvement in performance and consistency over the Rs. Specialized should have spec'ed the bike with them from the start. Actually using smaller rotors and getting them hotter isn't bad because we have lots of rain/cold weather here and hotter rotors tend to squeal less.
flag flashpixx
Posted: Dec 1, 2023 at 21:43 Quote
Have a 2022 Epic Evo Comp with SID Select fork. My previous MTB was also an Epic, a 2018 Alloy Comp.

The 2018 Epic ran a Fox Stepcast 34 in place of the original Reba. The SC was brilliant, such a huge improvement in handling. Sold now Cry

I'm quite impressed by the SC fork and can get a 2023 SC 34 Performance fork for a good price.

What am I giving up / gaining if I were to swap?

I do like to "feel" the front fork under me so plush isnt necessarly a good thing for me.
flag Simann
O+
Posted: Dec 2, 2023 at 5:57 Quote
xaos wrote:
26 Grams on my scales for Centerline X rotors plus MAYBE 2-5 grams on the smaller brake mount?

Unless you are running SUPER light XC Race tires I wouldnt consider it (dont think I would consider it anyway). I find the G2s struggle as is for my 170 lbs and going down in rotor size would only serve to overheat the system and throw your modulation out the window for a straight up death grip/ increased arm pump. I run 160 rotors on my Gravel bike with 45mm semi slicks and they are perfect for that, and really only that.

Bottom line, the capabilities of the Epic Evo Frameset far exceed a 160 rotor.

I ran 203/180 TRP floating rotors with metallic pads on G2 Ultimates, zero fade, felt just as good as Code's, and I'm 220 kitted up.
flag xaos
Posted: Dec 2, 2023 at 10:25 Quote
knutspeed wrote:
xaos wrote:
knutspeed wrote:


My MY 2021 Expert came with a 160 rear rotor. I briefly ran a 180, but reverted as I found my main issue were the G2R brakes. Switched levers to RSC and it helped a bit. Going to replace the Centerlines with HS2s to get less "modulation" aka free throw on the levers.

For the type of riding I do (XC), the brakes are fine except I'd like a lot less SRAM-style modulation.

I am interpreting what you are saying as there is not enough ramp up in power and bite with the stock setup. Am I misinterpreting you?

If so I am confused why you went back to a 160? Then you say you want to go to a thicker heavier rotor (HS2) that is normally paired with a more powerful brake say Codes for your XC style riding to reduce free throw (which is not what modulation is, Modulation refers to the power band from when the pad first makes contact until the wheel locks up anything before that is free stroke anything after is pointless). Why would a HS2 rotor reduce free stroke?

Bummer that your Expert came with G2R but interested in you finding a real improvement by upgrading your levers. Do you attribute that to simply a better made lever or the additional adjustments that the RSC lever provides?

Back to 160 was simply because I have two wheelsets, and just wanted to explore if running the 180 did anything to improve the brakes. I know the diff between modulation and free throw, but just don't like the SRAM Guiides or G2s because they do have a lot of free throw, and when they start biting there's just too much lever movement available - or modulation, so I have to pull so much my grip/bike control suffers. I prefer brakes to have nil free throw, and extremely little modulation. I know it's personal, guess it's a carry over from race cars where I liked a solid-feeling brake pedal. So I get along with Shimano brakes better.

The HS2 is thicker than the Centerline AFAIK. Even with new pads and a good bleed, I have to dial the RSC almost max out to avoid too much free throw. Initially the upgraded levers was because I had to re-index the G2s every two rides by removing the wheel, use a thin shim between the pads, and pump the pistons out. This was from the bike was brand new. On my other bikes with Shimano brakes, I run centerlines because they're thicker than the similarly-priced shimano rotors.

In general, the RSC G2s are good enough for my riding since I don't have any long descents. IMO a major improvement in performance and consistency over the Rs. Specialized should have spec'ed the bike with them from the start. Actually using smaller rotors and getting them hotter isn't bad because we have lots of rain/cold weather here and hotter rotors tend to squeal less.

You have officially reminded me how much free stroke there is in my brakes something I had brainwashed out of my mind while riding! Funny how mental this stuff is especially when you aren't actually racing or going between bikes with a different feel. I totally agree on feel / preferences for the firmer shimano feel which was my biggest issue when I got the bike and found the 180s and especially metallic pads to really help improve the feel. Obviously doesn't help the free stroke.

I also went and specifically did some extremely short descent, rolling xc trails and can see what your getting at with the 160s being at temp more of the time. For what I do though what little I lose in feel and an extra squeal on those short descents more then make up for in confidence that I wont get fade on the longer descents.

@Simann Those TRP Rotors look like an awesome option, I went with the Centerline X because there were some stellar deals on them but prolly would have gone TRP all other things being equal. The 203/180 with Metallic pads and XT brakes are still the best braking system I have ever had on my old SC Hightower.
flag Simann
O+
Posted: Dec 2, 2023 at 11:42 Quote
xaos wrote:
[

@Simann Those TRP Rotors look like an awesome option, I went with the Centerline X because there were some stellar deals on them but prolly would have gone TRP all other things being equal. The 203/180 with Metallic pads and XT brakes are still the best braking system I have ever had on my old SC Hightower.

My favorite rotor alloy to pair with metallic pads so far has been TRP and Hope. I truly believe they are sourcing better alloys than Sram and Shimano. The latter just seem to glaze over and lose their "bite."
flag knutspeed
Posted: Dec 3, 2023 at 4:29 Quote
Simann wrote:
xaos wrote:
[

@Simann Those TRP Rotors look like an awesome option, I went with the Centerline X because there were some stellar deals on them but prolly would have gone TRP all other things being equal. The 203/180 with Metallic pads and XT brakes are still the best braking system I have ever had on my old SC Hightower.

My favorite rotor alloy to pair with metallic pads so far has been TRP and Hope. I truly believe they are sourcing better alloys than Sram and Shimano. The latter just seem to glaze over and lose their "bite."

Hmm, I think I'll see if there are anyone here carrying TRP. Totally agree on the Shimano rotors losing their bite.

I built up a Stumpy Evo last winter, and having tried Zee/Magura/Sram brakes on my previous build without getting things where I liked them, I opted for new SLX 2-pots with 203mm Magura Storm rotors, metallic pads at both ends. Have run 2-pot SLXs for many years before. More or less the same performance as XTs, but lower costs.
Those brakes were really excellent, just the feel I was after, and no fading in long alpine decents.
flag iadorjan23
Posted: Feb 5, 2024 at 2:01 Quote
Has anyone experienced issues with the cable routing rubber boot between the rear end of the BB and the chain stays (see photo)? How often do these rubber thingies tear/break requiring replacement?

photo
flag Schew
Posted: Feb 29, 2024 at 19:09 Quote
bmtroublemaker wrote:
Anyone know if you can buy a non S-Works frame only, I only see the S-works on the website.

Yes. Terrible design. Had to pulll the wheel and loosen the brake body to get the right angle.

 


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