Hello guys. I wanted to add information for putting Hayes dominion a4 on the stumpy evo carbon frame and my experience with this problem. First of all the original hose which is 5.5mm didn't went through the frame after few hours and quite a lot of lube. Some people report that they were able to do it but in my case I was not able. The solution was to use Shimano hose BH-90(Manufacturer number: ISMBH90SBML200) which have similar banjo. If you use this method be sure to have seals(o-rings) for the Shimano Banjo, because it's not the same as the original Hayes one. (Old hoses from SRAM guide brakes have similar banjo as well.) The other thing that you need to consider is to use Shimano Pin and Nut at the brake lever end. The inner diameter of the original Hayes hose is wider. Btw this is the reason I was not able to pull through the hose with a cable guide tool.
The original brakes on the bike were Code RS with brand new H2 Rotors. I decided to use the Sram rotors but there I struck another problem - the sram brake adapters on the fork and the frame cannot accommodate the bigger Hayes caliper. There were three options - to file down sram adaptor in the middle (which I don't think its a good idea). I had Shimano 203 adaptors in which the caliper fits but the rotors are 200mm, so I filed down the Shimano adapter on each end and they fit perfectly. Of Course you can buy Hayes adapters and disks, but this would cost additional money.
I was able to bleed the brakes with the SRAM pro bleed kit with quite ease, used motul dot 5.1.
For the matchmaker problem that exist I used the Magura Shiftmix 3(Manufacturer number 2701949), the holes fit but the Magura brace is little wider(which affect only aesthetics) and radius does fit 99%. You need to tight the bolts a little bit extra to stay in place but you can file down the faces of the Magura brace to solve this problem. Also you can use old AVID matchmaker clamps but those was not available to me(Manufacturer number 00.5315.006.000. Of course you can use the original Hayes Peacemaker but it's more expensive and not available to me for a least month.
I have ridden the bike few times already with no issue at all. Everything works just fine and it does not leak oil from any point.
I decided to write this post because I was not able find extensive information about this. There is information in the Internet, but it is scatted in different locations and posts and I believe many fellow riders could fall in this situation.
Hello guys. I wanted to add information for putting Hayes dominion a4 on the stumpy evo carbon frame and my experience with this problem. First of all the original hose which is 5.5mm didn't went through the frame after few hours and quite a lot of lube. Some people report that they were able to do it but in my case I was not able. The solution was to use Shimano hose BH-90(Manufacturer number: ISMBH90SBML200) which have similar banjo. If you use this method be sure to have seals(o-rings) for the Shimano Banjo, because it's not the same as the original Hayes one. (Old hoses from SRAM guide brakes have similar banjo as well.) The other thing that you need to consider is to use Shimano Pin and Nut at the brake lever end. The inner diameter of the original Hayes hose is wider. Btw this is the reason I was not able to pull through the hose with a cable guide tool.
The original brakes on the bike were Code RS with brand new H2 Rotors. I decided to use the Sram rotors but there I struck another problem - the sram brake adapters on the fork and the frame cannot accommodate the bigger Hayes caliper. There were three options - to file down sram adaptor in the middle (which I don't think its a good idea). I had Shimano 203 adaptors in which the caliper fits but the rotors are 200mm, so I filed down the Shimano adapter on each end and they fit perfectly. Of Course you can buy Hayes adapters and disks, but this would cost additional money.
I was able to bleed the brakes with the SRAM pro bleed kit with quite ease, used motul dot 5.1.
For the matchmaker problem that exist I used the Magura Shiftmix 3(Manufacturer number 2701949), the holes fit but the Magura brace is little wider(which affect only aesthetics) and radius does fit 99%. You need to tight the bolts a little bit extra to stay in place but you can file down the faces of the Magura brace to solve this problem. Also you can use old AVID matchmaker clamps but those was not available to me(Manufacturer number 00.5315.006.000. Of course you can use the original Hayes Peacemaker but it's more expensive and not available to me for a least month.
I have ridden the bike few times already with no issue at all. Everything works just fine and it does not leak oil from any point.
I decided to write this post because I was not able find extensive information about this. There is information in the Internet, but it is scatted in different locations and posts and I believe many fellow riders could fall in this situation.
Hello guys. I wanted to add information for putting Hayes dominion a4 on the stumpy evo carbon frame and my experience with this problem. First of all the original hose which is 5.5mm didn't went through the frame after few hours and quite a lot of lube. Some people report that they were able to do it but in my case I was not able.
I ran into a similar issue with TRP Quadiem brakes which used a 5.5mm hose at that time. I am an audio-visual guy by trade and have experience with cable lube to get wires through conduits, so I used this approach and barely made it work (I'm too stubborn for my own good). Funny/irritating thing is, about a month after I got this done, TRP changed their spec to normal 5mm hose! Then, after all the faffing around with the hose, the lever body/master cylinder started to leak from the cover. I purchased new covers and seals, but the problem is in the casting of the lever body and the new cover and seal didn't fix it. TRP refused to help, despite my good faith efforts to PURCHASE solutions from them, so now I refuse to use their products. Piss on them.
Someday I'll run Hope's, but for the last 2 years and indefinite future, I'm back to Code RSC's.
Hello guys. I wanted to add information for putting Hayes dominion a4 on the stumpy evo carbon frame and my experience with this problem. First of all the original hose which is 5.5mm didn't went through the frame after few hours and quite a lot of lube. Some people report that they were able to do it but in my case I was not able.
I ran into a similar issue with TRP Quadiem brakes which used a 5.5mm hose at that time. I am an audio-visual guy by trade and have experience with cable lube to get wires through conduits, so I used this approach and barely made it work (I'm too stubborn for my own good). Funny/irritating thing is, about a month after I got this done, TRP changed their spec to normal 5mm hose! Then, after all the faffing around with the hose, the lever body/master cylinder started to leak from the cover. I purchased new covers and seals, but the problem is in the casting of the lever body and the new cover and seal didn't fix it. TRP refused to help, despite my good faith efforts to PURCHASE solutions from them, so now I refuse to use their products. Piss on them.
Someday I'll run Hope's, but for the last 2 years and indefinite future, I'm back to Code RSC's.
What pads you runnin? I’m loving my galfer pros but my buddy likes his mtx a lot
What pads you runnin? I’m loving my galfer pros but my buddy likes his mtx a lot
Not sure if you were asking me or Todor... I run Jagwire semi-metalic (red) pads because they're cheap and so am I. A buddy of mine swears by Galfer pro's and I'm gonna try them next.
Quick question . Does the normal stumpy have the same weakspot on the downtube as the evo version ? Thanks
not that I have heard. Worked in speci shops for a couple years and never even heard a rumor about it on that bike. Evo weak spot was common knowledge but I never saw or heard of anyone local having an issue…
Quick question . Does the normal stumpy have the same weakspot on the downtube as the evo version ? Thanks
not that I have heard. Worked in speci shops for a couple years and never even heard a rumor about it on that bike. Evo weak spot was common knowledge but I never saw or heard of anyone local having an issue…
Has anyone added extra frame protection to the downtube? Not for scratches but to prevent cracks or holes from rocks flying up. Going to Whistler in a couple months and I need to protect my baby.