[Quote="theglenn"]There was some chat earlier in the thread on fork offset, now I have an AM9 with a pike on it with a 42mm offset. Bike I demo's had a lyrik with a 51mm offset (lyrik was not available when I ordered) I have ridden the bike only once so far but noticed it felt quite different to the demo bike. By different I mean it likes to wander a fair bit. Now I realise I need time to adjust to the bike especially with wider bars, but I just want to know what other people's experiences were. 29inch fork with 42 Vs 51mm offset.
Cheers[/Quote
I went for the MRP Ribbon fork, which has 46mm offset and I’m loving it. The AM9 is fastest cornering bike I’ve ever ridden. I have been riding 800mm plus bars for many years, so was already used to that. I’m a fan of the reduced offest.
What's the solution? Do you have to remove the lowers and refit the piston to equalise the pressure?
I pulled the lowers and removed the piston. Cleaned it up and gave it new grease. Put the whole thing back together in with new Fox Gold oil and NO compression of the fork. Works like a charm now and hit 25% with 120psi. I got two tokens in it now put I think I need to reduce it to one just by testing it on the street. Got mabey 35mm left of travel.
There was some chat earlier in the thread on fork offset, now I have an AM9 with a pike on it with a 42mm offset. Bike I demo's had a lyrik with a 51mm offset (lyrik was not available when I ordered) I have ridden the bike only once so far but noticed it felt quite different to the demo bike. By different I mean it likes to wander a fair bit. Now I realise I need time to adjust to the bike especially with wider bars, but I just want to know what other people's experiences were. 29inch fork with 42 Vs 51mm offset.
Cheers
With “wander”, do you mean you weave around from left to right while climbing? That would be explained by the higher trail caused by the shorter offset. To compensate you can try running a shorter stem, to help correct easier. Also, saddle forward and bars low will help keep more weight on the front while climbing, which can help. You might also try an angle adjust headset, to STEEPEN the head angle. This would bring the trail back to what you had with the demo bike(slack HA+long offset =trail= steep HA short offset).
If you mean you weave alternating wider and tighter in high speed sweeping turns, I would say it’s part of the different feel, and just getting used to it, by focusing on cornering with lean, and not turning the bars.
Thanks for that, you make some good points. I think I will need to adjust to the bike and think about changes later. Shorter stem makes sense but its already 40mm.
Thanks for that, you make some good points. I think I will need to adjust to the bike and think about changes later. Shorter stem makes sense but its already 40mm.
Careful with getting your saddle too far forward though. Your tibial tuberosity (that's the knobbly bit at top of your shin, below the knee) ideally needs to be behind the axles of your pedals, or at least in line with, when that pedal is perpendicular to the ground. Too far forward and you will be saying goodbye to your knees before you really should be. I had my saddle forward for years to protect sore back, eventually knees started going. Since putting saddle back, things are settling down.
, but I just want to know what other people's experiences were. 29inch fork with 42 Vs 51mm offset. Cheers
I can not compare directly. My last bike was a 23” Trek Fuel EX with 51mm offset fork. My new bike is an XL Am9 with a 37mm offset fork. Due to more fork sag and offset headset, the effective HA is about 1.5 degrees steeper than stock, about the same as the Fuel EX, and about the same (coincidentally) as this article: fork offset experiment .
I did this because I wanted to get more weight on the front wheel of bike, since the very long sizes I ride are much more rear weight biased than a M or L sized bike. (Weight distribution on long bikes)
By combining steeper headangle and shorter offset the fork trail stays the same, but the front wheel is closer to my hands.
The steering of the Bird with super short offset feels very different than that on the Trek, despite similar trail and front/rear weight distribution. (But a more forward seated position.) It feels easier to turn the bars and correct my line. It also feels easier to control front wheel traction and grip. I have been on any super high speed descending yet, so I can not comment on that yet.
Obviously, I have not ridden them back to back, and even then they were two fairly different bikes, so this is hardly a true test, but it’s the best I can do.
Ben from Bird has been riding his with a 42mm offset fork he said.
Niiice.....I do like a black bike. Full stealth is going to require some rim de-stickering and a bit of Sharpie action on the Maxxis logos
If the AM9 had a black option that's what I would've gone for but raw will have to do.
Yeah, that is great for sure. I am thinking of buying a raw frame and let it get anodized. As not every color fits every frame shape. Which ANODIZE COLORS would you guys think suit the AM9? MY ideas would be black with pink or bordeaux red link, of course fit the forks and shocks knobs in the same color. Ano blue Or Ano red Both would keep the black link but knobs would be anodized if needed
There was some chat earlier in the thread on fork offset, now I have an AM9 with a pike on it with a 42mm offset. Bike I demo's had a lyrik with a 51mm offset (lyrik was not available when I ordered) I have ridden the bike only once so far but noticed it felt quite different to the demo bike. By different I mean it likes to wander a fair bit. Now I realise I need time to adjust to the bike especially with wider bars, but I just want to know what other people's experiences were. 29inch fork with 42 Vs 51mm offset.
Cheers
With “wander”, do you mean you weave around from left to right while climbing? That would be explained by the higher trail caused by the shorter offset. To compensate you can try running a shorter stem, to help correct easier. Also, saddle forward and bars low will help keep more weight on the front while climbing, which can help. You might also try an angle adjust headset, to STEEPEN the head angle. This would bring the trail back to what you had with the demo bike(slack HA+long offset =trail= steep HA short offset).
If you mean you weave alternating wider and tighter in high speed sweeping turns, I would say it’s part of the different feel, and just getting used to it, by focusing on cornering with lean, and not turning the bars.
What you are experiencing, as you describe it's called wheel flop and it's caused, all others equal, when you have a fork with more offset. Mechanical trail makes a bike or a motorcycle handle better at speed being more stable. An equation of ha, wheel size and offset or rake. If you increase offset wheel flop will be felt more. offset affects wheel flop, at low speeds we tend to steer with the handle bars instead with our body (so it's where some 29ers fail, increased offset) think tendency of a wheel to fall on it's side like a coin loosing momentum. Two bikes with same trail but different off set it will handle different, the one with more offset will be more prone to wheel flop and more trail input than the one with less fork offset. If you got confused, google it. It will save me the arguments!
I have searched it a lot but frankly find the topic quite interesting. It's a tricky concept to grasp, basically the steering feels much faster despite the larger tail measurement.
Got a One Up Bash Guide but I get some chain rubbing when in the larges cog in the rear. Do any of you ride with that and experience the same issues? I run it without any spacers and get chain rubbing on the inside left on the top guide. Saint M820 with one 2.5mm spacer on DS. Link to the guide: https://int.oneupcomponents.com/collections/chainguides/products/bashguide-iscg05
Got a One Up Bash Guide but I get some chain rubbing when in the larges cog in the rear. Do any of you ride with that and experience the same issues? I run it without any spacers and get chain rubbing on the inside left on the top guide. Saint M820 with one 2.5mm spacer on NDS. Link to the guide: https://int.oneupcomponents.com/collections/chainguides/products/bashguide-iscg05
I think mine slightly rubs too, but I just ignore it. I am rarely in the 50t out back; I am when I am I'm dying and then I'm not concerned with the extra slight bit of friction. I figure it will just wear down the plastic a little and then not rub.