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Fox dpx2 service

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Fox dpx2 service
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flag ZhengZL
Posted: Aug 1, 2022 at 6:59 Quote
Hey guys, I was just wondering. Would it be worth doing a rebuild (changing the oil from the damper which is extremely aireated) without swapping the seals?

I live in Spain and I can't seem to find the rebuild kit in stock, and even if I do they charge over 90€ which I can't get over my mind to spend so much for some rubber.

Thanks in advance


update: I've seen a dialed video from Fox where they service the Float X2, and the mechanic said that they usually service the shocks a lot on a race so they just inspect the seals instead of replacing them. He does change one or two orings to help prevent aireation, so I guess if I don't replace the seals it will probably aireate sooner, which made sense to me. All in all, I think I'll perform the bleed so at least I'll have a more dampened feel, because right now it is pretty inconsistent.
flag ZSW
O+
Posted: Aug 4, 2022 at 8:16 Quote
ZhengZL wrote:
Hey guys, I was just wondering. Would it be worth doing a rebuild (changing the oil from the damper which is extremely aireated) without swapping the seals?

I live in Spain and I can't seem to find the rebuild kit in stock, and even if I do they charge over 90€ which I can't get over my mind to spend so much for some rubber.

Thanks in advance


update: I've seen a dialed video from Fox where they service the Float X2, and the mechanic said that they usually service the shocks a lot on a race so they just inspect the seals instead of replacing them. He does change one or two orings to help prevent aireation, so I guess if I don't replace the seals it will probably aireate sooner, which made sense to me. All in all, I think I'll perform the bleed so at least I'll have a more dampened feel, because right now it is pretty inconsistent.

I’ve done several oil changes without changing any seals. They seem to be good for the same amount of time as normal. I don’t think seal wear is the main reason these shocks get air in the oil so I’d just go for it
flag lance-h
O+ FL
Posted: Aug 4, 2022 at 18:56 Quote
ZhengZL wrote:
Hey guys, I was just wondering. Would it be worth doing a rebuild (changing the oil from the damper which is extremely aireated) without swapping the seals?

I live in Spain and I can't seem to find the rebuild kit in stock, and even if I do they charge over 90€ which I can't get over my mind to spend so much for some rubber.

Thanks in advance


update: I've seen a dialed video from Fox where they service the Float X2, and the mechanic said that they usually service the shocks a lot on a race so they just inspect the seals instead of replacing them. He does change one or two orings to help prevent aireation, so I guess if I don't replace the seals it will probably aireate sooner, which made sense to me. All in all, I think I'll perform the bleed so at least I'll have a more dampened feel, because right now it is pretty inconsistent.


Changing seals prevents air from entering the damper big time. You can easily do the oil change without changing seals but fresh seals will last longer for sure! I put 1ml of fox float fluid in the IFP to help with any nitrogen from the IFP leaking into the damper oil also. I figure most air entering the damper is from the air can pushing through the main shaft seal under harsh bottom outs. A bad vacuum bleed is a prime suspect for sure also.
flag Fribble
O+
Posted: Mar 8, 2023 at 17:17 Quote
Near as I can figure from the commentary on Amazon, the Motorcraft-CM3461 fits older RP23 shocks. I'm going to try the 5/16 24 ORB one first on my DPX2. An odd thing is Schmidty list a third size, 5/16 32 ORB as "Used on Fox float shocks as well as others." Did Fox really use three different connections?

vermontskier78 wrote:
would

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-CM3461-Auxiliary-Air-Valve/dp/B000C5BJFS

also work? I've seen other posts about this part on fox shocks
flag ZSW
O+
Posted: Mar 8, 2023 at 22:17 Quote
Fribble wrote:
Near as I can figure from the commentary on Amazon, the Motorcraft-CM3461 fits older RP23 shocks. I'm going to try the 5/16 24 ORB one first on my DPX2. An odd thing is Schmidty list a third size, 5/16 32 ORB as "Used on Fox float shocks as well as others." Did Fox really use three different connections?
]

I don’t remember what exactly the 5/16-32 one fits but I remember seeing the finer thread on a shock before. Might have been an x2 or dhx2 I can’t really remember. “ORB” is some kind of engineer speak for noting that there’s a groove for an o-ring on the threads. The old ford fuel rail valves like people used to use on rp23 are beefy but they’re really bulky and I’ve noticed sometimes they don’t play nice with shock pumps.

I’ve since just gone back to using the pellets and filling with a needle adapter. It’s cheaper in the long run and having two valves on one shock was confusing the hell out of people I was fixing them for.

NICECNC Nitrogen Needle Kit with Needle Head Replacement for RZR's, Arctic Cat,Ohlins,Raptor truck shocks,Fox UTV,snowmobile shocks https://a.co/d/6om2N5s

There’s a cheap needle tool and you can buy 7mm oring cord to cut pellets out of
flag gemas09
Posted: Jun 5, 2023 at 22:27 Quote
thelibrarybiker wrote:
Followed the advice of people in this thread and got a friend's blown up dpx2 rolling again---thanks for the great thread

I used Maxima 3wt synthetic oil. I think this is a little too thin because the rider was around only 2-4 clicks out on rebound at around 225psi. I will probably try a mix of maxima 10wt and the 3wt next time.

photo

On the schmitty racing 5/16-24 ORB valves you'll need cut down the hex so the dust cover can fit over it. Would be really easy if you have a lathe otherwise a file works just fine

photo

photo

Also if anyone is curious, a size small Ibis ripmo v1 dpx2 comes with the following main piston valving codes and 1 negative volume spacer.

photo

photo

What is everyone's opinion on the negative volume spacers in this shock? AFAIK they are there to make sure heavier riders don't need to exceed max psi limit to get 30% sag. So is there any reason to not remove them if you're well under the psi limit?

How did you bleed it? Did you use the adapter in tbe center between the shaft bullet and seal driver? Could you send a link or dimensions?

Thanks!
flag ZSW
O+
Posted: Jun 6, 2023 at 7:23 Quote
gemas09 wrote:
[

How did you bleed it? Did you use the adapter in tbe center between the shaft bullet and seal driver? Could you send a link or dimensions?

Thanks!

The adapter your talking about in the picture is just the schrader valve he put on the nitrogen fill port. Fox has instructions on hand bleeding on their site in the dpx2 service section. This is usually the way people go as it’s sufficient for most home mechanics and doesn’t require any extra tools. Just take your time and be mindful of trying to get as much air out as possible. If you want to vacuum bleed it you’ll need an adapter. I made one out of a sram brake bleed adapter that I rethreaded with a die but don’t remember what it was. Fox usually had thread specs on their site though, just need it to thread into the ifp bleed port so find out what that bolt is
flag Purpledragonslayer
Posted: Jun 14, 2023 at 10:35 Quote
Hey guys, nice thread.

Those of you that have done this. Do you use the pellet retainer tool? Is it just there to help you insert the needle concentrically/parallelly?

This thing:
FOX SHOX Pellet Retainer Tool Nitrogen Fill 398-00-374

Also what are you using for the oil fill adapter?
flag ZSW
O+
Posted: Jun 14, 2023 at 21:41 Quote
Purpledragonslayer wrote:
Hey guys, nice thread.

Those of you that have done this. Do you use the pellet retainer tool? Is it just there to help you insert the needle concentrically/parallelly?

This thing:
FOX SHOX Pellet Retainer Tool Nitrogen Fill 398-00-374

Also what are you using for the oil fill adapter?

Most companies that make oil fill machines make the adapters. I have a home made one but it’s been so long I don’t remember what the threading is. You can do the bleed without using it though.

I don’t use the fox pellet tool. It probably makes everything easier but I use a security Allen bit and just push the needle through it. Every once in a while I get the needle off center and it won’t push through. If that happens just cut another pellet and try again it will be fine
flag Purpledragonslayer
Posted: Jun 15, 2023 at 22:50 Quote
Ok so just push the last air bubbles out the top port with the ifp at the end of the bleed.

For some reason I didn't think safety allens came with through holes. But I found the 1/4 drive style I assume you were referring to. O ring cord is brilliant! Ty
flag ZSW
O+
Posted: Jun 16, 2023 at 8:22 Quote
Purpledragonslayer wrote:
Ok so just push the last air bubbles out the top port with the ifp at the end of the bleed.

For some reason I didn't think safety allens came with through holes. But I found the 1/4 drive style I assume you were referring to. O ring cord is brilliant! Ty

Yep I try to get it bled as well as I can with the ifp still set high then push the ifp down with the bleed screw out and any bubbles should come out when setting the depth. You can also tightly stretch a nitrite glove over the reservoir like a drum then pull up on the center to create a vacuum. I do that frequently bleeding brakes and it’s a quick way to help get any bubbles out
flag Purpledragonslayer
Posted: Jun 27, 2023 at 9:58 Quote
ZSW wrote:
Purpledragonslayer wrote:
Ok so just push the last air bubbles out the top port with the ifp at the end of the bleed.

For some reason I didn't think safety allens came with through holes. But I found the 1/4 drive style I assume you were referring to. O ring cord is brilliant! Ty

Yep I try to get it bled as well as I can with the ifp still set high then push the ifp down with the bleed screw out and any bubbles should come out when setting the depth. You can also tightly stretch a nitrite glove over the reservoir like a drum then pull up on the center to create a vacuum. I do that frequently bleeding brakes and it’s a quick way to help get any bubbles out

Thanks for this. The glove trick is pretty sweet!

I ended up getting a Schrader valve from schmitty racing. But I'm not getting a good seal. The Schrader valve uses an o-ring for the seal, but the shock has no provision for retaining the o-ring. So when I tighten it down the o-ring just mushrooms out. Since it's not a tapered thread I know Teflon tape won't work. So I guess I should try loctite? Has anyone else solved this issue?
flag ZSW
O+
Posted: Jun 27, 2023 at 22:39 Quote
Purpledragonslayer wrote:
ZSW wrote:
Purpledragonslayer wrote:
Ok so just push the last air bubbles out the top port with the ifp at the end of the bleed.

For some reason I didn't think safety allens came with through holes. But I found the 1/4 drive style I assume you were referring to. O ring cord is brilliant! Ty

Yep I try to get it bled as well as I can with the ifp still set high then push the ifp down with the bleed screw out and any bubbles should come out when setting the depth. You can also tightly stretch a nitrite glove over the reservoir like a drum then pull up on the center to create a vacuum. I do that frequently bleeding brakes and it’s a quick way to help get any bubbles out

Thanks for this. The glove trick is pretty sweet!

I ended up getting a Schrader valve from schmitty racing. But I'm not getting a good seal. The Schrader valve uses an o-ring for the seal, but the shock has no provision for retaining the o-ring. So when I tighten it down the o-ring just mushrooms out. Since it's not a tapered thread I know Teflon tape won't work. So I guess I should try loctite? Has anyone else solved this issue?


Either use loctite or put an oring into the bottom of the threaded hole so the valve tightens down on it inside the hole. I have done it both ways and both worked fine
flag Pisgahbikeworks
FL
Posted: Oct 24, 2023 at 14:03 Quote
I am a Fox-certified mechanic offering complete rebuilds, tuning, and other services. I reside in Asheville, NC. Many of my customers ship their forks and shocks to me for servicing, which I usually complete in a week or less. In emergency cases, I can provide a two-day turnaround service. I have the Andreani bleed machine that guarantees a 100% perfect bleed, and I use nitrogen for optimum performance. Although air can be used instead of nitrogen, the latter offers long-term benefits such as preventing moisture buildup and keeping the shock cooler by dissipating heat more efficiently. Air should be sufficient if you usually rebuild your shock every six months.

For more information, please visit www.pisgahbikeworks.com or email me at pisgahbikeworks@gmail.com. I can also be reached at 828-620-3581 via text or call. If I am unavailable, please leave a message, and I will return your call ASAP.

Here are my rates:
- Shock Full Rebuild: $175 (includes seal kits, nitrogen, and labor)
- Push non-friction seals: +$25
- 50hr Service: $75 (fork or shock)

Please note that for certain repairs, I may need to inspect the fork or shock first to provide a quote. I also offer aftermarket tuning products from Push Industries, DSD, and Vorsprung.

I apologize in advance and will delete this post if it is not allowed. I have noticed that there is a high demand for suspension services, but many shops do not offer full rebuilds or do not perform quality work. However, I use the same methods that I learned directly from Fox, so the warranty will not be voided.

Thank you,

Dylan Schemel
flag sp00n82
Posted: May 7, 2024 at 13:52 Quote
So I just wanted to make sure, you can leave the Schrader valve installed also during regular use?
Or have there been any problems since you installed it this way?


ZSW wrote:
They stay installed on the shock during use but are not permanent. They thread in so they can be easily removed if you want

ZSW wrote:
Either use loctite or put an oring into the bottom of the threaded hole so the valve tightens down on it inside the hole. I have done it both ways and both worked fine

thelibrarybiker wrote:
photo

P-I-Engineer wrote:
photo

 


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