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flag Airboy123
Posted: Apr 4, 2024 at 7:57 Quote
Dief74 wrote:
Hi everyone,

I just cleaned and greased my headset on a 2016 Norco Range Carbon C.3 trying to address a creaking noise.

I was surprised that there was not a lower 'bearing' in place, at least a bearing in the sense of a sealed unit where two concentric parts move against each other with ball bearings (or cartridge, or needle etc.) inside. There was such a bearing at the top, at the bottom there is just a conical metal piece that seems to slide directly on the crown race of the fork.

Perhaps this works as a bushing or some other sort of bearing (I'm not an engineer obviously...), but I would have expected a lower sealed unit like there was at the top, again containing ball bearings or something similar.

Just want to make sure I'm not missing an essential part of the headset, if so it's been missing for a long time. Looking at online pictures of headsets they seem to generally contain both upper and lower bearings of the sort I expected.

The headset type from Norco's spec sheet is S.H.I.S. IS42/28.6 | IS52/40, any wisdom would be appreciated!

Check the link https://canecreek.com/how-to-install-an-integrated-is-headset/

The frame uses integrated headset so the lower bearing just rest against the inside of the headtube.
flag ethanrevitch
Posted: Apr 4, 2024 at 10:18 Quote
pyromaniac wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
riish wrote:
Something I just realised about my Lyrik - I’ve always thought it felt pretty sticky when servicing it, so this time around I checked the fit of each stanchion in the bushings separately. They glide without a problem, so I checked the hub spacing. The gap between the lower legs is 108mm.

Sure enough, installing a hub (measured to make sure it was exactly 110mm) and retesting the bushing stiction shows that there isn’t actually a problem. Hopefully this helps someone else who’s wondering why their fork feels a bit off in the workstand!

I'd be hard pressed to believe that the stiffness of the lower leg arch holding the lower legs out of alignment enough to move the dropouts a mm or two, is enough to cause noticeable stiction. The bushing pressures induced are going to be in the region of grams, not kg. If the crown is holding the lower legs parallel but too close together, this would indeed induce (massive) friction, but then fitting a hub wouldn't fix it. Something doesn't seem quite right here.

The spacing between the dropouts on both of my Pikes is also less than 110mm, without a hub installed. Seems reasonable to me.
This is why RS needs to do a floating axles.
flag Dief74
O+
Posted: Apr 4, 2024 at 13:38 Quote
Thanks, the Cane Creek article shows what I expected to see- an upper and lower bearing (or at least something that's obviously a lower bearing). Instead what's in the bottom of the head tube looks just like a crown race, which glides against the actual crown race on the fork steerer tube- looks like what's in the first link, but what I was expecting is per the second link which is stated to be a cartridge bearing (FSA is the headset brand in there currently).

https://www.amazon.ca/FSA-Orbit-Crown-Race-H6033/dp/B001CK0F5M

https://www.thecyclery.ca/fsa-c-40-headset-lower-part-is52-40.html

Must say it's turning smoothly and there is no play, but think I'll bring it to my LBS to have a quick look to be safe- ovalizing a head tube doesn't sound good.



Airboy123 wrote:
Dief74 wrote:
Hi everyone,

I just cleaned and greased my headset on a 2016 Norco Range Carbon C.3 trying to address a creaking noise.

I was surprised that there was not a lower 'bearing' in place, at least a bearing in the sense of a sealed unit where two concentric parts move against each other with ball bearings (or cartridge, or needle etc.) inside. There was such a bearing at the top, at the bottom there is just a conical metal piece that seems to slide directly on the crown race of the fork.

Perhaps this works as a bushing or some other sort of bearing (I'm not an engineer obviously...), but I would have expected a lower sealed unit like there was at the top, again containing ball bearings or something similar.

Just want to make sure I'm not missing an essential part of the headset, if so it's been missing for a long time. Looking at online pictures of headsets they seem to generally contain both upper and lower bearings of the sort I expected.

The headset type from Norco's spec sheet is S.H.I.S. IS42/28.6 | IS52/40, any wisdom would be appreciated!

Check the link https://canecreek.com/how-to-install-an-integrated-is-headset/

The frame uses integrated headset so the lower bearing just rest against the inside of the headtube.
flag Airboy123
Posted: Apr 4, 2024 at 15:02 Quote
The part in the headtube, that spins, would be the lower cartridge bearing. Likely has a slight friction fit, into the carbon headtube.


Dief74 wrote:
Thanks, the Cane Creek article shows what I expected to see- an upper and lower bearing (or at least something that's obviously a lower bearing). Instead what's in the bottom of the head tube looks just like a crown race, which glides against the actual crown race on the fork steerer tube- looks like what's in the first link, but what I was expecting is per the second link which is stated to be a cartridge bearing (FSA is the headset brand in there currently).

https://www.amazon.ca/FSA-Orbit-Crown-Race-H6033/dp/B001CK0F5M

https://www.thecyclery.ca/fsa-c-40-headset-lower-part-is52-40.html

Must say it's turning smoothly and there is no play, but think I'll bring it to my LBS to have a quick look to be safe- ovalizing a head tube doesn't sound good.



Airboy123 wrote:
Dief74 wrote:
Hi everyone,

I just cleaned and greased my headset on a 2016 Norco Range Carbon C.3 trying to address a creaking noise.

I was surprised that there was not a lower 'bearing' in place, at least a bearing in the sense of a sealed unit where two concentric parts move against each other with ball bearings (or cartridge, or needle etc.) inside. There was such a bearing at the top, at the bottom there is just a conical metal piece that seems to slide directly on the crown race of the fork.

Perhaps this works as a bushing or some other sort of bearing (I'm not an engineer obviously...), but I would have expected a lower sealed unit like there was at the top, again containing ball bearings or something similar.

Just want to make sure I'm not missing an essential part of the headset, if so it's been missing for a long time. Looking at online pictures of headsets they seem to generally contain both upper and lower bearings of the sort I expected.

The headset type from Norco's spec sheet is S.H.I.S. IS42/28.6 | IS52/40, any wisdom would be appreciated!

Check the link https://canecreek.com/how-to-install-an-integrated-is-headset/

The frame uses integrated headset so the lower bearing just rest against the inside of the headtube.
flag VTwintips
Posted: Apr 4, 2024 at 17:17 Quote
Can you use any compression nut on a trust message fork?

I've never done a carbon steerer tube and need to go long and aftermarket. The one on the fork now is 25mm.

photo
flag scotteh
Posted: Apr 4, 2024 at 17:24 Quote
Any tricks for making a OneUp v2 post work better when fully slammed?

I have the insertion length to slam it, but if I do the seat collar up tight enough that it doesn't slip in the frame, the post binds and will not fully extend (even with fresh grease and max PSI). If I keep the torque low enough that the post doesn't bind, it spins in the frame (even using friction paste instead of grease). Has happened with multiple different frames and seat collars if the post is slammed. This sucks when trying to use the seat to steer, keep balance while doing wheelies, etc. The post works normally if you clamp ~20mm down from the collar, but this negates the "extra drop" you get with a OneUp.

Just wondering if there's any solution that will allow for adequate clamping force with the post slammed so it doesn't bind or spin?
flag whattheheel
Posted: Apr 4, 2024 at 17:57 Quote
VTwintips wrote:
Can you use any compression nut on a trust message fork?

I've never done a carbon steerer tube and need to go long and aftermarket. The one on the fork now is 25mm.

photo

Shouldn’t matter which one you go with as long as it is inserted long enough and you don’t over torque it. I absolutely love my Trust fork!! Enjoy! Haven’t touched it in the three years since I installed it and have not even had to add air! Enjoy!
flag Airboy123
Posted: Apr 4, 2024 at 18:12 Quote
Have you checked the pressure? 250-300psi with post extended.

scotteh wrote:
Any tricks for making a OneUp v2 post work better when fully slammed?

I have the insertion length to slam it, but if I do the seat collar up tight enough that it doesn't slip in the frame, the post binds and will not fully extend (even with fresh grease and max PSI). If I keep the torque low enough that the post doesn't bind, it spins in the frame (even using friction paste instead of grease). Has happened with multiple different frames and seat collars if the post is slammed. This sucks when trying to use the seat to steer, keep balance while doing wheelies, etc. The post works normally if you clamp ~20mm down from the collar, but this negates the "extra drop" you get with a OneUp.

Just wondering if there's any solution that will allow for adequate clamping force with the post slammed so it doesn't bind or spin?
flag scotteh
Posted: Apr 4, 2024 at 18:18 Quote
Airboy123 wrote:
Have you checked the pressure? 250-300psi with post extended.

scotteh wrote:
Any tricks for making a OneUp v2 post work better when fully slammed?

I have the insertion length to slam it, but if I do the seat collar up tight enough that it doesn't slip in the frame, the post binds and will not fully extend (even with fresh grease and max PSI). If I keep the torque low enough that the post doesn't bind, it spins in the frame (even using friction paste instead of grease). Has happened with multiple different frames and seat collars if the post is slammed. This sucks when trying to use the seat to steer, keep balance while doing wheelies, etc. The post works normally if you clamp ~20mm down from the collar, but this negates the "extra drop" you get with a OneUp.

Just wondering if there's any solution that will allow for adequate clamping force with the post slammed so it doesn't bind or spin?
Set to 300 PSI (aka maximum pressure) at full extension. Happens even with fresh grease and friction paste on the post. Happens to multiple posts on multiple frames with different collars. Seems to just be a design flaw where the post can't take pressure right at the collar when fully slammed without binding?
flag Airboy123
Posted: Apr 4, 2024 at 19:33 Quote
scotteh wrote:
Airboy123 wrote:
Have you checked the pressure? 250-300psi with post extended.

scotteh wrote:
Any tricks for making a OneUp v2 post work better when fully slammed?

I have the insertion length to slam it, but if I do the seat collar up tight enough that it doesn't slip in the frame, the post binds and will not fully extend (even with fresh grease and max PSI). If I keep the torque low enough that the post doesn't bind, it spins in the frame (even using friction paste instead of grease). Has happened with multiple different frames and seat collars if the post is slammed. This sucks when trying to use the seat to steer, keep balance while doing wheelies, etc. The post works normally if you clamp ~20mm down from the collar, but this negates the "extra drop" you get with a OneUp.

Just wondering if there's any solution that will allow for adequate clamping force with the post slammed so it doesn't bind or spin?
Set to 300 PSI (aka maximum pressure) at full extension. Happens even with fresh grease and friction paste on the post. Happens to multiple posts on multiple frames with different collars. Seems to just be a design flaw where the post can't take pressure right at the collar when fully slammed without binding?

That sucks. I have the V3 dropper and clamped just a few mm from fully inserted into the seat tube and that seems OK. My Fox Transfer dropper would bind slightly if clamped hard. Maybe contact OneUp and see what they have to say. I asked them about the V3 post and they replied within a day or two.

Is there a lot of play between the post and the seat tube?
flag scotteh
Posted: Apr 5, 2024 at 9:24 Quote
Airboy123 wrote:
That sucks. I have the V3 dropper and clamped just a few mm from fully inserted into the seat tube and that seems OK. My Fox Transfer dropper would bind slightly if clamped hard. Maybe contact OneUp and see what they have to say. I asked them about the V3 post and they replied within a day or two.

Is there a lot of play between the post and the seat tube?
I reached out, they haven't responded yet but it's only been a day.

I ordered the updated v2.1 rebuild kit with the new midcap assembly and lower friction seals, hopefully that helps.

No play between the post and seat tube - posts are on Knollys and Banshee which both seem to have really good tolerances. Had the same problem on a Kona Honzo ST, but can't recall if it was sloppy.
flag mtbman1980
O+
Posted: Apr 6, 2024 at 14:11 Quote
I found that I had to be careful after I rebuilt my one up with the larger brass key kit to actually leave a bit of slop in the post when I rebuilt it so when tightened it would still slide properly.
flag alishmass
Posted: Apr 7, 2024 at 0:36 Quote
hi, quick question:
the lbs mechanic that was supposed to swap my rear brake somehow contaminated the front brakes pads and disk.
after that, he tried to clean the disk(weird and unorthodox methods). i gave him a front brake to swap in place of the old one(so same supposedly cleaned disk and new caliper and pads) but i feel like the braking power is a bit lacking and the front brake makes noise while the rear which wasnt contaminated works well and doesnt make any noise.
i would gladly pay for good quality mtb disc brake cleaners but do not have access to them where i am. i can get car brake cleaners though. so is something like "Wurth brake cleaner" or other brake cleaners that claim to be residue free ok to use?
flag newbermuda
O+
Posted: Apr 7, 2024 at 1:22 Quote
alishmass wrote:
hi, quick question:
the lbs mechanic that was supposed to swap my rear brake somehow contaminated the front brakes pads and disk.
after that, he tried to clean the disk(weird and unorthodox methods). i gave him a front brake to swap in place of the old one(so same supposedly cleaned disk and new caliper and pads) but i feel like the braking power is a bit lacking and the front brake makes noise while the rear which wasnt contaminated works well and doesnt make any noise.
i would gladly pay for good quality mtb disc brake cleaners but do not have access to them where i am. i can get car brake cleaners though. so is something like "Wurth brake cleaner" or other brake cleaners that claim to be residue free ok to use?

isopropyl alcohol.
flag Plaguepl
Posted: Apr 7, 2024 at 7:21 Quote
Hello all i am trying to take off my crank and i tried two crank removal tools and they did not work so here is a photo of my crank and i would appreciate your help to fine the right tool or tools to take this one off -_-

Thank you
photo

 


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