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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag mtbman1980
O+
Posted: Apr 7, 2024 at 16:02 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
brenzle wrote:
I was recently sessioning a step-up jump with a friend (see photo below), and one time I managed to get bucked forward after the takeoff, hit my front wheel into the back side of the jump and go OTB. No serious injuries, the bike seemed okay, so I jumped again and cleared it just like I did many times before. We continued the ride but I noticed very loud creaks every time I jump. The obvious suspicion was that it's the headset bearings that are creaking since they might've got damaged in the crash. There was no play noticable in the headset, but we still disassembled it to take a look. After seeing the headset cups are plastic, we suspected that they might've developed some play for the bearings to shift forwards and backwards. We disassembled it, inspected the headtube from the inside for any damage and it seemed fine. I put in new headset bearings with new metal cups (greased the outside of the cups and the bearings before assembly), thinking it would solve the issue but it stayed exactly the same (see video below). Creaks are very loud and sound like carbon cracking. Tightening the headset more doesn't eliminate creaking, just makes it a bit harder to reproduce and will damage the bearings. So, it's not that the plastic cups are deformed, since the new cups didn't eliminate the issue.

Now I'm suspecting it's the headtube of the frame that got damaged, maybe developed some play for the headset cups to shift forwards and backwards which might be making that horrible sound. Also thinking it might be something related to the fork. I can still try to put in a different fork just to eliminate that, but it seems far more likely to be a headtube issue.

Any thoughts on how to fix it? In the meantime, how safe is it to ride as-is?

Frame (and complete bike) is 2023 Bulls Wild Ronin RS (carbon) and the fork is Rockshox Pike Select +.

Video of me reproducing the creaking: https://www.playbook.com/s/brenzle/NXxmeTPMzPar8grw1pbuyeKD?assetToken=SwtUVLNhrNjjz12NNqJeqCf5

Photo of the step-up jump: https://www.playbook.com/s/brenzle/cwyyKfp82bmiXAFKWgBpxRgV?assetToken=V4NdkGFzqUGU12JUSrRZGNdA

Could be so many things. If it were my bike I would be taking the front end off and cleaning and inspecting everything. Could be a cracked handlebar, could be CSU. Could be crack in the frame. Hard to say.

I would check everything. Stem, handlebar, csu etc. I was chasing a creak once and it was some dirt between my stem spacers…
flag Gravelben
O+
Posted: Apr 7, 2024 at 17:20 Quote
gotohe11carolina wrote:
yes auto brake cleaners work great. Use away, just use with gloves in a ventilated area. They are not great for your skin/eyes/lungs.

I have heard that bike brakes don't usually get hot enough to burn off the residue from some car brake cleaners.

I've used some on bike brakes before and it did burn off but took a bit longer, I normally use ispropyl alcohol for cleaning bike brakes these days.

I'd try isopropyl alcohol first, if that doesn't do the trick then try car brake cleaner, and if the residue doesn't burn off well enough then use the alcohol again to clean the brake cleaner residue.
flag Whipperman
Posted: Apr 8, 2024 at 4:43 Quote
Hi,
I lost one of the end caps that come with the RaceFace Grippler Grip. I managed to replace it with a clamp from some old grips but that's not as nice as the original ones. Do you know if it's possible to get those RF end plug somewhere ?
flag Plaguepl
Posted: Apr 8, 2024 at 7:01 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
barp wrote:
Plaguepl wrote:
Hello all i am trying to take off my crank and i tried two crank removal tools and they did not work so here is a photo of my crank and i would appreciate your help to fine the right tool or tools to take this one off -_-

Thank you
photo

Which pullers did you try? I think the "Octalink" half of the Park Tool CWP-7 is the one, at a glance.

Octalink/isis crank puller is the one that should work with this style.

I Used The Oumers Bike Crank Extractor and Bottom Bracket Remover with 16mm Spanner Wrench & Shimano Deore Crank Removal Tool
flag kent-b
O+
Posted: Apr 8, 2024 at 14:46 Quote
Today Im installing a new rear triangle on my We Are One Arrival. Trying anyway, since I dont have experience with internally routed brake cables or shifter cables yet.

I want to know how I’m supposed to remove the outer end caps to pull the cable sleeve through the chainstays. Are they threaded? Crimped? What are my options here?

I really hope I don’t have to detach these cables at the handlebar end and pull everything out of the frame… I dont have any special tools so hopefully I’m not SOL!

Brakes: Magura MT-5
Shifter: SRAM X01

Photo examples:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wuzp50_nvjTi3_lkpQ2ibhvkU9J4V32P

Thanks for your time!
Kent
flag dirtnapped
O+
Posted: Apr 8, 2024 at 14:58 Quote
The outer caps on the shifter housing just pull off. You could remove and replace it, but while you're at it I'd suggest new cable and housing. This can be done with regular Allen keys and a wire cutter.

As for the brakes, you're going to have to disconnect, thread through the frame, reconnect and then bleed. Without specialty tools for the brakes, you're much better off taking that to a shop.
flag freestyIAM
Posted: Apr 8, 2024 at 15:01 Quote
kent-b wrote:
Today Im installing a new rear triangle on my We Are One Arrival. Trying anyway, since I dont have experience with internally routed brake cables or shifter cables yet.

I want to know how I’m supposed to remove the outer end caps to pull the cable sleeve through the chainstays. Are they threaded? Crimped? What are my options here?

I really hope I don’t have to detach these cables at the handlebar end and pull everything out of the frame… I dont have any special tools so hopefully I’m not SOL!

Brakes: Magura MT-5
Shifter: SRAM X01

Photo examples:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wuzp50_nvjTi3_lkpQ2ibhvkU9J4V32P

Thanks for your time!
Kent

You'll have to detach the brakes somewhere, and you'll have to remove the shifter cable housing from the old triangle.

You are going to need tools to do a brake bleed at least. You should probably replace the cable housing and cables while you are there.

... I don't think there is any special trick to removing the cable housing end caps. Try pulling on it w a pair of needle nose plier
flag free-dilly
O+
Posted: Apr 8, 2024 at 15:58 Quote
TRP Evo 12 speed derailleur with sram gx eagle shifter + 50t gx cassette. Will it work?
flag riish
Posted: Apr 8, 2024 at 22:33 Quote
The complexity of re-routing your brake cable also increases if you have a frame that doesn't allow the olive to pass through the cable port. You'll have to install a new olive and barb into the brake hose in that case.

If the bike shifts well, I would just change the inner shift cable. The end cap on the outer should just pull off by hand.
flag commental
Posted: Apr 9, 2024 at 2:00 Quote
riish wrote:
The complexity of re-routing your brake cable also increases if you have a frame that doesn't allow the olive to pass through the cable port. You'll have to install a new olive and barb into the brake hose in that case.

If the bike shifts well, I would just change the inner shift cable. The end cap on the outer should just pull off by hand.

More the nut than the olive. If the port is the same size as this one the hose will certainly need cutting.

photo
flag LS-COLO95
Posted: Apr 9, 2024 at 19:23 Quote
Evening everyone, recently I picked up a 2019 Santa Cruz nomad aluminum. It arrived without a headset, no problem I’ll order one. Find out it needs a IS41/28.6 IS52/40, went to install it and the lower bearing drops right in and has some play front and rear of the frame. I was under the impression it would need to be pressed in. The diesel mechanic inside me is telling me to use a center punch and make some craters in the race and press it in anyways and it will hold. But I’m not sure it’s worth messing up a (in otherwise) good shape frame if it doesn’t work.


Seems like the preload could maybe hold it but I don’t really know.

Any advice?
flag Nobble
Posted: Apr 9, 2024 at 19:30 Quote
LS-COLO95 wrote:
Evening everyone, recently I picked up a 2019 Santa Cruz nomad aluminum. It arrived without a headset, no problem I’ll order one. Find out it needs a IS41/28.6 IS52/40, went to install it and the lower bearing drops right in and has some play front and rear of the frame. I was under the impression it would need to be pressed in. The diesel mechanic inside me is telling me to use a center punch and make some craters in the race and press it in anyways and it will hold. But I’m not sure it’s worth messing up a (in otherwise) good shape frame if it doesn’t work.


Seems like the preload could maybe hold it but I don’t really know.

Any advice?
IS is an integrated headset. The bearing sits in a 45deg taper and the preload force of the headset holds is centered.
flag LS-COLO95
Posted: Apr 9, 2024 at 19:37 Quote
Nobble wrote:
LS-COLO95 wrote:
Evening everyone, recently I picked up a 2019 Santa Cruz nomad aluminum. It arrived without a headset, no problem I’ll order one. Find out it needs a IS41/28.6 IS52/40, went to install it and the lower bearing drops right in and has some play front and rear of the frame. I was under the impression it would need to be pressed in. The diesel mechanic inside me is telling me to use a center punch and make some craters in the race and press it in anyways and it will hold. But I’m not sure it’s worth messing up a (in otherwise) good shape frame if it doesn’t work.


Seems like the preload could maybe hold it but I don’t really know.

Any advice?
IS is an integrated headset. The bearing sits in a 45deg taper and the preload force of the headset holds is centered.
So it should drop right in and be okay to move around a few thousandths before it’s all tightened up?
flag Nobble
Posted: Apr 9, 2024 at 19:53 Quote
LS-COLO95 wrote:
Nobble wrote:
LS-COLO95 wrote:
Evening everyone, recently I picked up a 2019 Santa Cruz nomad aluminum. It arrived without a headset, no problem I’ll order one. Find out it needs a IS41/28.6 IS52/40, went to install it and the lower bearing drops right in and has some play front and rear of the frame. I was under the impression it would need to be pressed in. The diesel mechanic inside me is telling me to use a center punch and make some craters in the race and press it in anyways and it will hold. But I’m not sure it’s worth messing up a (in otherwise) good shape frame if it doesn’t work.


Seems like the preload could maybe hold it but I don’t really know.

Any advice?
IS is an integrated headset. The bearing sits in a 45deg taper and the preload force of the headset holds is centered.
So it should drop right in and be okay to move around a few thousandths before it’s all tightened up?
Yep, it’s normal for it to have some play before you tighten the topcap.

If it doesn’t go away when you tighten the topcap then something might be up.
flag LS-COLO95
Posted: Apr 10, 2024 at 6:48 Quote
Nobble wrote:
LS-COLO95 wrote:
Nobble wrote:
IS is an integrated headset. The bearing sits in a 45deg taper and the preload force of the headset holds is centered.
So it should drop right in and be okay to move around a few thousandths before it’s all tightened up?
Yep, it’s normal for it to have some play before you tighten the topcap.

If it doesn’t go away when you tighten the topcap then something might be up.
Sounds good, Thanks for the assistance. first time doing a headset on my bike. (no local bike shop)

 


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