They might be similar spec size but profile's customer service going downhill these past years and that 99% of their publicity revolves around "hurrdurr murica" and "we've been around for sooo long" makes me trust the cranksets that I see getting thrashed daily (akimbos) way more
Animal is an American company, ( probably made in China products) very soon to have a 25% tariff tax. My point is that a lifetime warranty only matters if your company survives.
I haven't had or tried to warrantee crank arms. Even my Saints are about 1.5° skewed. I usually bend cranks enough to where I just replace them. The crappy Chinese stuff usually just snaps though.
Hey guys, I won a pike dj from crankworx and decided to build a bike. I have a list of parts that I'm thinking about. I'm kind of on a budget so some parts I picked because they are on sale. This is my first dj, so let me know what you think and if any of the parts seem silly. Thanks for the help fellas.
Frame: O1 zircus Fork: pike dj Handlebars: spank (also from crankworx) Wheels: spank spoon Hubs: O1 orbital ss Stem: spank 40mm Headest: cane creek BB: sram dub Crankset: truvative descendant 6k 32t Chain: kmc superlite Saddle/post: deity pivotal Brake: tektro hydraulic Pedals: raceface chester
Thoughts and opinions welcome
I'd do a cheaper crankset and put that money into a nicer brake. Something cheap that takes a DM ring (Raceface Aeffect, SRAM GX, whatever) would be dialed, and frees up juuuust enough money for a Shimano Deore brake. I find that even the cheap Shimanos have a great lever shape/size for DJ riding, and once you're in the Shimano ecosystem, replacement parts are very widely available.
Confusingly enough, the Descendant 6k isn't carbon and isn't a lot of money. It's their cheapest DH crank iirc.
He has a point though, get a shimano deore level brake and walk away laughing.
They might be similar spec size but profile's customer service going downhill these past years and that 99% of their publicity revolves around "hurrdurr murica" and "we've been around for sooo long" makes me trust the cranksets that I see getting thrashed daily (akimbos) way more
I've still got my Profiles from the 80s and used them a few years ago when I warrantied out a newer crank arm when the pedal boss came loose (threads wearn't deep enough) and more recently sent abother set in when the arms got loose on the spindle. Customer service was great, took me a week to get a new set of cranks, cost me 14$ for shipping.
Specialized p series freewheel is starting to lock up for some reason. How hard is it to service it/get a replacement one for it? Can any hub be converted to a single speed freewheel?? any other suggestions? the wheels are fine otherwise and don't really have money to buy new wheels..
Specialized p series freewheel is starting to lock up for some reason. How hard is it to service it/get a replacement one for it? Can any hub be converted to a single speed freewheel?? any other suggestions? the wheels are fine otherwise and don't really have money to buy new wheels..
Is it the single speed cassette hub?
Usually, those hubs would start to slip because the pawl Interface would get rounded off, like my driver on the far right ( I have a parts bin full of those drivers). I've never had one lock up:
It sounds like one or more of those pawls is sticking. Your solution could be as easy as shooting the pawl's springs with Triflow/ cleaning out whatever is making them stick
Take the jam nuts off the axle, hammer the axle out from the non-drive side, and try to figure out why it is locking up. The driver/cassette should have three or four spring loaded pawls like my pic above (the pawls should compress easily with finger pressure). Again, I have a parts bin full of those things... so all you have to do is ask around and there should be a parts fix. I've got two of them with perfect pawls and bearings.
Has anyone tried lowering a Yari for a DJ bike? Loads for cheap and they're burly as hell. Reasonably light too. It'd be as simple as trimming the air shaft and cutting in new threads as far as I can tell.
Annoyingly rockshox have stopped listing axle to crown measurements but a 650b boost Yari at 80mm would be close enough to a 26 inch at 100-110 going by my very rough measurements.
Has anyone tried lowering a Yari for a DJ bike? Loads for cheap and they're burly as hell. Reasonably light too. It'd be as simple as trimming the air shaft and cutting in new threads as far as I can tell.
Annoyingly rockshox have stopped listing axle to crown measurements but a 650b boost Yari at 80mm would be close enough to a 26 inch at 100-110 going by my very rough measurements.
if they sold it as a proper 26" 100mm fork, i would buy a Yari DJ. I run my fork stiff enough that i dont think the fancy charger damper in the Pike is worth the cost, but the burly blacked out chassis and tunable air spring of the Yari would be cool.
Has anyone tried lowering a Yari for a DJ bike? Loads for cheap and they're burly as hell. Reasonably light too. It'd be as simple as trimming the air shaft and cutting in new threads as far as I can tell.
Annoyingly rockshox have stopped listing axle to crown measurements but a 650b boost Yari at 80mm would be close enough to a 26 inch at 100-110 going by my very rough measurements.
if they sold it as a proper 26" 100mm fork, i would buy a Yari DJ. I run my fork stiff enough that i dont think the fancy charger damper in the Pike is worth the cost, but the burly blacked out chassis and tunable air spring of the Yari would be cool.
Pretty much my thinking. They should bring back the argyle as a MoCo damper in a 26 inch pike chassis, I reckon it's more likely as they already have the tooling and spares for it. Still unlikely...
Also I'm pissed that the new circus has a 15mm axle.