The MTB Quick Question Thread 3.0 - Parts names & abreviations link on first post.

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The MTB Quick Question Thread 3.0 - Parts names & abreviations link on first post.
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flag mrgonzo
Posted: Apr 9, 2014 at 20:16 Quote
and to clarify have the powerlink section of the chain above your chainstay
flag R-trailking-S
O+
Posted: Apr 9, 2014 at 21:00 Quote
udayorama wrote:
Wow, thanks for all the info.
This will hopefully be going on a Nukeproof Mega TR frame (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/mtb-frames?f=2258 ) that I plan on building over the summer.
I'll check out some Raceface cranksets on CRC as well.

Raceface cranks are pretty sweet. The Mega uses a european bb like your current frame does.

Edit: Your welcome!
flag valtra
Posted: Apr 9, 2014 at 21:09 Quote
Thanks for the advice. If pedalling doesn't work I'm going to take it in and ask for a new Powerlock, but I've also ordered a Whipperman master link in the meantime.
flag debonis
Posted: Apr 9, 2014 at 22:20 Quote
Can anyone tell me if this is a long or medium cage?

Just updated pics.
flag inked-up-metalhead
Posted: Apr 10, 2014 at 0:19 Quote
valtra wrote:
Thanks for the advice. If pedalling doesn't work I'm going to take it in and ask for a new Powerlock, but I've also ordered a Whipperman master link in the meantime.

10spd powerlocks are shit, youll have the same issue with any of them, I replaced mine with a KMC one and am far happier, easier to undo/fasten and designed to be fastened more than once
flag thebillygoat6000
Posted: Apr 10, 2014 at 4:23 Quote
debonis wrote:
Can anyone tell me if this is a long or medium cage?

Just updated pics.
long
flag valtra
Posted: Apr 10, 2014 at 5:37 Quote
inked-up-metalhead wrote:
valtra wrote:
Thanks for the advice. If pedalling doesn't work I'm going to take it in and ask for a new Powerlock, but I've also ordered a Whipperman master link in the meantime.

10spd powerlocks are shit, youll have the same issue with any of them, I replaced mine with a KMC one and am far happier, easier to undo/fasten and designed to be fastened more than once
Seems to be the consensus. The Whipperman's are supposed to be excellent.
flag udayorama
Posted: Apr 10, 2014 at 12:24 Quote
R-trailking-S wrote:
udayorama wrote:
Wow, thanks for all the info.
This will hopefully be going on a Nukeproof Mega TR frame (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/mtb-frames?f=2258 ) that I plan on building over the summer.
I'll check out some Raceface cranksets on CRC as well.

Raceface cranks are pretty sweet. The Mega uses a european bb like your current frame does.

Edit: Your welcome!

Will these work? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/race-face-ride-dh-double-chainset/rp-prod21873
They're cheaper than the x7 too.
Sorry, but what's the difference between a European bb and a normal one?
I'm kinda new to all this.
Thanks!
flag debonis
Posted: Apr 10, 2014 at 14:45 Quote
thebillygoat6000 wrote:
debonis wrote:
Can anyone tell me if this is a long or medium cage?
long

Cheers, that's what I figured it was. I've been thinking of a new rear mech. and wanted a shorter cage.
flag recklessness
Posted: Apr 10, 2014 at 15:11 Quote
valtra wrote:
Thanks for the advice. If pedalling doesn't work I'm going to take it in and ask for a new Powerlock, but I've also ordered a Whipperman master link in the meantime.
A lot of the time you can bunt a stuck pin with the chain tool and free things up. My chain tool has a separate chain slot for exactly that.
flag valtra
Posted: Apr 10, 2014 at 15:41 Quote
recklessness wrote:
valtra wrote:
Thanks for the advice. If pedalling doesn't work I'm going to take it in and ask for a new Powerlock, but I've also ordered a Whipperman master link in the meantime.
A lot of the time you can bunt a stuck pin with the chain tool and free things up. My chain tool has a separate chain slot for exactly that.
Taking it out of the stand and pedalling worked. I tried the chain tool previous to that and it was no use since the masterlink has no true pins.

Still getting chain suck and the front shifting is still a disaster. I can't shift into big ring on anything but the smallest cog. The chain suck occurs when I downshift from an unsuccessful upshift.

The L-limit screw is as far in as it can go but there's still like 3-4mm of space, so that may be a problem.

Might just break down and drop money on a 2x10 front der.
flag valtra
Posted: Apr 10, 2014 at 16:01 Quote
recklessness wrote:
valtra wrote:
Thanks for the advice. If pedalling doesn't work I'm going to take it in and ask for a new Powerlock, but I've also ordered a Whipperman master link in the meantime.
A lot of the time you can bunt a stuck pin with the chain tool and free things up. My chain tool has a separate chain slot for exactly that.
Taking it out of the stand and pedalling worked. I tried the chain tool previous to that and it was no use since the masterlink has no true pins.

Still getting chain suck and the front shifting is still a disaster. I can't shift into big ring on anything but the smallest cog. The chain suck occurs when I downshift from an unsuccessful upshift.

The L-limit screw is as far in as it can go but there's still like 3-4mm of space, so that may be a problem.

Might just break down and drop money on a 2x10 front der.

*edit* when I took it for a spin, I didn't get chain suck but it got jammed right between the two rings.
flag R-trailking-S
O+
Posted: Apr 10, 2014 at 20:36 Quote
udayorama wrote:
R-trailking-S wrote:
udayorama wrote:
Wow, thanks for all the info.
This will hopefully be going on a Nukeproof Mega TR frame (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/mtb-frames?f=2258 ) that I plan on building over the summer.
I'll check out some Raceface cranksets on CRC as well.

Raceface cranks are pretty sweet. The Mega uses a european bb like your current frame does.

Edit: Your welcome!

Will these work? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/race-face-ride-dh-double-chainset/rp-prod21873
They're cheaper than the x7 too.
Sorry, but what's the difference between a European bb and a normal one?
I'm kinda new to all this.
Thanks!

They will work but I was frankly surprised they still have ride dh cranks, and that is way too much for a crankset I believe hasn't been made in 3+ years. If you're ordering through crc, you can get Shimano SLX cranks for the same price. Lighter, new, cheaper.

European bb's are the norm. They thread in and are usually 73 mm wide on trail bikes, rarely 68 [although one bb is compatible with both of those widths].
flag nockiseo
Posted: Apr 10, 2014 at 21:57 Quote
I have a 2013 Rockshox Lyrik R coil with a soft spring. It seems that I can only find a black x firm or a blue firm spring that's listed as 170mm. Will it work in my fork if it's at 160mm of travel? Thanks

http:// http://velostarusa.com/rockshox-lyrik-28199.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=18283950120&gclid=CLrXg43S170CFY6RfgodtokArg
flag cannondalemale
Posted: Apr 11, 2014 at 4:20 Quote
is 13.3kilo's heavy for xc bike

because it sounds heavy

should i worried

 


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