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how to remove a crank without a crank puller??

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how to remove a crank without a crank puller??
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flag rocklegacy
Posted: Apr 21, 2009 at 6:20 Quote
lidl is shit yeh, but i sawin paper a cycle kit for £25, it comes in box has everything puller chain whip and tool, i paid like 23 for a tool and whip alone.
its not worth f*ckin up ur crankset for like £8[/Quote]

I make my own chain whips- it's metal and a chain- everyone has those two componentes in thier shop, right?
flag devon2493
Posted: Apr 21, 2009 at 8:14 Quote
rocklegacy wrote:
lidl is shit yeh, but i sawin paper a cycle kit for £25, it comes in box has everything puller chain whip and tool, i paid like 23 for a tool and whip alone.
its not worth f*ckin up ur crankset for like £8

I make my own chain whips- it's metal and a chain- everyone has those two componentes in thier shop, right?[/Quote]

yeh,but i dnt work in shop neither can i bothered to make one. 25££ is f*ck all for every bike tool necessary.
flag jagarcia89
O+ FL
Posted: Apr 21, 2009 at 23:29 Quote
wow, I just read all six pages of this and surprised at how many people refuse to get a crank puller. People, just get a regular square taper puller, for all other cranks (octalink, ISIS, what ever) just slide a bolt with a right sized head (big enough to cover the hole the crank bolt occupied, small enough it doesn't rest on inner flange on crank) into the spindle before using your puller.

ANYTHING other than the proper tool or self extracting set can and will damage your crank, even if you dont notice right away. and if you still refuse, borrow one from a friend, a friendly shop, or hell buy one then return it.
flag jdavidson
Posted: Aug 3, 2009 at 11:36 Quote
um. dont ride it off. i already tried it, but it took like 4 hours of riding and i sacked myself on a jump really really bad in front of a crowd
flag neon-freerider
Posted: Aug 3, 2009 at 11:52 Quote
hustler wrote:
Hate to ask, but why do you need it off if you dont have a crank puller? You're clearly not well equipped as a home mechanic, and maybe should consider leaving some of the BB area as a secret undiscovered country.

i was the same way with my BMX cranks...

I have a full tech license and normally i just make the tools I need, or do what works at home, if I dont have the shop available.
flag NorcoBigfootKid19
Posted: Aug 3, 2009 at 20:07 Quote
kitten a milk at fridge with george the rihno
flag neon-freerider
Posted: Aug 3, 2009 at 20:09 Quote
NorcoBigfootKid19 wrote:
kitten a milk at fridge with george the rihno

what?
flag NorcoBigfootKid19
Posted: Aug 3, 2009 at 20:13 Quote
neon-freerider wrote:
NorcoBigfootKid19 wrote:
kitten a milk at fridge with george the rihno

what?
my answer is as legit as his question lawl
flag neon-freerider
Posted: Aug 3, 2009 at 20:15 Quote
NorcoBigfootKid19 wrote:
neon-freerider wrote:
NorcoBigfootKid19 wrote:
kitten a milk at fridge with george the rihno

what?
my answer is as legit as his question lawl

true enough, do what this guy says^
flag trohan
Posted: Aug 4, 2009 at 18:16 Quote
xxJon wrote:
i want to know how to remove my crank without a crank puller
first i gotta ask whyy?
just buy a 10 dollar crank puller
if u rele want to damage ur cranks just be creative..there are many ways to damage them, hammer works great Razz
flag deeeight
O+
Posted: Aug 5, 2009 at 8:49 Quote
jedi-bike-guy wrote:
WasabiJim wrote:
its a valid question. its only held on by a single bolt so you'd think un-screw it, give it a wiggle and disco!

i have self-extracting bolts on one bike - nice!
on the other bike i use foot long lump of 4x2 and a hummer

Cranks stay on a BB spindle cause of friction. Square taper, ISIS, Octalink, Howizter, X-type, etc... They all work on friction.

It's not as easy as wiggling them off, there's a little more to it than that.

Bzzzzzzt Wrong! But thanks for playing....

Friction isn't at all what holds the cranks in place. They're called Press Fit assemblies for a reason ya know. That Press word... refers to PRESSURE. The bolt tightens the arm against the spindle, in the process the metal surfaces deform elastically against one another (this is different than plastic deformation, which is permanent). This is the case for Squares, Octa/Isis, and the Truvative powerspline BBs. External bearing cranks don't depend on friction either, they depend on one arm being clamped to the end of the spindle, which is welded or bonded to the other arm.
flag deeeight
O+
Posted: Aug 5, 2009 at 8:55 Quote
kucebags wrote:
for the tard factor lets entertain the thought that "said" rider has stripped the threads and must remove the cranks and the "proper" tool will not work.

I have some thoughts and successful attempts and you?

Do you insist on saving the cranks for re-use later? Are the cranks aluminium? If yes to both questions... then the answer involves a propane torch (like you use for plumbing), a pitcher of water, and a rubber mallet. Take the torch, heat the crankarm and BB end for a couple minutes. Then splash the water on it. Then hit the backside of the arm with the mallet. The principal at work here is that Aluminium conducts heat about 10 times as fast as steel. The heat makes the aluminium expand away from the spindle and the rapid cooling contracts it back. This rapid change in pressure will almost always loosen the arm off enough that a couple quick hammer whacks is all it takes to get it off.

This method also works for removing stuck/cold-welded Al posts from steel frames, or parts of Al stem quills out of steel fork columns. You heat the outside of the seattube (yes this will usually destroy the paint) or fork steerer with the torch till it starts to turn a bit red (around the zone where the Al part is stuck), then hit it with a lot of cold water (I've dropped a frame into a river while doing this, forks into buckets of water, whatever works for you). The Al contracts away from the steel faster and this will almost always break a cold-weld bond between the two.
flag deeeight
O+
Posted: Aug 5, 2009 at 9:02 Quote
norcodropvps wrote:
you can use a ti rod puller it is a big fork about 1 1/2 feet long you put it in between the bb and crank arm and push down that is how we do it at the shop if the crank arm is striped

Most people insist on doing things the hard way though. They take off fork crown headset races with the screwdriver and hammer instead of buying a gear pulley remove from an auto parts store (which is the SAME tool that one of the "bicycle" brands sells in their catalog of tools for just this application but at a much higher price).
flag Tyler2
Posted: Dec 30, 2009 at 19:40 Quote
Scoen wrote:
deity vendettas use a self extracting bolt. no tool is necessary. the self extracting bolt is the tool. no damage is done to the system. all you have to do is turn the crank bolt counter clock wise until the crank arm comes off. if that doesnt make sense or doesnt work take it to a bike shop.

I just spent hours working on my brand new vendetta system. The product design at least my particular batch is pretty poor. I tried to remove the left crank arm to add spacers so the arm does not hit the frame. I have my dust caps in and tightened, I go to extract the bolt (Note this is how the product is supposed to be used) and the crappy little dust cap pops out stripping the threads to my dust cap and crank. I take the dust cap from the right crank to try again same problem. I followed all instructions, and the mechanic helping me with it has put on vendettas before. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. Meanwhile I will be trying to get a new crank, new dust caps, and probably a new spindle being that this product was designed to work with no tools out on the market...Meaning the spindle will need to be cut to take the stupid crank off the bike. I sure hope Deity does not screw me over on this.
flag olibawler
Posted: May 5, 2010 at 19:31 Quote
yea for the vendetta cranks, it is a reverse thread, so thats why ur crank puller wont fit, dont worry u didnt strip anything. u must need a special tool.

 


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