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Specialized demo owners club

PB Forum :: Specialized
Specialized demo owners club
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flag Brasher
Posted: Jul 9, 2019 at 0:39 Quote
New demo announced tomorrow I’m told. Very good source.

29 inch, Move to rockshox front and back. Sizing up to S4.
flag bigburd
Posted: Jul 9, 2019 at 1:41 Quote
dh-corn wrote:
bigburd wrote:
Yeah new shock and headset, and bb bearings. Wish I sent the wheels back too now so they get new bearings. Also its not all raw carbon, hard to see till close up but its raw in places and matte black in others. That is all the stickers I'm putting on besides the forks tho now.

Edit : Well actually on another look it is all raw carbon, it's just got a see thru sticker kit on some areas that high lights the raw effect more than the uncovered aeeas.

So its the 2016 8.1 frame?

But you didn´t get the progressive link as well or? That would be insane Big Grin

The manufacturing label has 21/11/2017 on it, as for the link, not sure how to tell the progressive one from the normal one visually.
flag Brasher
Posted: Jul 9, 2019 at 1:56 Quote
Progressive one looks like a big old chunk of cnc’d awesome.
flag bigburd
Posted: Jul 9, 2019 at 1:58 Quote
Then no this frame has the original link.

Most gutting thing is I can't ride it anyway, done some ligament damage to my hand few weeks back and it's healing to slowly, hurt my hand yesterday just picking the frame up Frown
flag dh-corn
Posted: Jul 9, 2019 at 3:24 Quote
Brasher wrote:
Progressive one looks like a big old chunk of cnc’d awesome.

It almost look like the "normal" one but has the 90 degree rotated lower mount.
flag CarolineHix
Posted: Jul 9, 2019 at 4:54 Quote
tmnutan wrote:
Main Pivot Bearing Removal - HOW?!?!

I've been through this forum/thread, loads of great info, but I still don't really understand how you're removing the old main pivot bearings. With the inner spacer/sleeve in there, I can't get a good spot to put a punch on, to knock the bearings out. Did you guys put your punch in the ovalized slots/spaces in the inner spacer and punch that (which would then push against the bearing)? Seems like that would destroy the inner spacer, and I didn't' buy a replacement one of those.

I've looked for a bearing extractor but can't find one big enough for the 50mm inner diameter of the main pivot bearing.

Anybody know what Specialized recommends for main pivot bearing removal? I've emailed them but haven't heard back yet. I know there's an FSR bearing took kit, but I think it's more for pressing than removal...

If your lucky then your bearing will still be intact which means you can smack the thing out from the inner race with a screwdriver and hammer (just go around evenly), it only takes a few hits before it will pop out.

If you were unlucky like me, then you'll need to try and tap just the outer race out. You will most likely need to go in at an angle. It can be done but will take much longer. If you have alloy frame you can be quite rough with it so dont be scared, but carbon i'd probably suggest taking it to an LBS if you are not comfortable doing it yourself.

You can move the inner spacer around so it gets out of the way. Once you get 1 side out. the inner spacer can just be pulled out, it sits above the ridge on the frame itself. its not attached to the bearings in any way.
---
To sum up, Move the inner spacer so it gives you access to the inner race of the bearing you intend to smack out.

There should be enough inner race exposed (Because the inner spacer is not in the way anymore) for you to put a small screwdriver on the bearing inner race.

Work your way around the inner race like that until it comes out.

Alternatively if your inner race is broken or falling out. Then you can actually just pull the inner spacer through the bearing and then proceed to try and get the outer race out. (Which is where you go in at an angle). Just make sure your tapping on the bearing race and not the frame ridge and you'll be fine.
flag phuley94
Posted: Jul 9, 2019 at 10:14 Quote
Brasher wrote:
New demo announced tomorrow I’m told. Very good source.

29 inch, Move to rockshox front and back. Sizing up to S4.

Check it out man, front page!

Ohlins front and rear on the more expensive race model but your right with the rockshox f/r on the expert one. no carbon fiber tho or an s works model yet Frown
flag Brasher
Posted: Jul 9, 2019 at 15:40 Quote
phuley94 wrote:
Brasher wrote:
New demo announced tomorrow I’m told. Very good source.

29 inch, Move to rockshox front and back. Sizing up to S4.

Check it out man, front page!

Ohlins front and rear on the more expensive race model but your right with the rockshox f/r on the expert one. no carbon fiber tho or an s works model yet Frown

We won't be getting the ohlins version in Aus unfortunately. Just the expert.

What annoys me is the reach, I ride a 18 S-works in XL, this thing is not really any bigger which is what I've been wanting. Front centre and wheelbase is slightly bigger however.

I think I'll keep the mullet setup on the 2018.
flag mmoon
O+
Posted: Jul 10, 2019 at 0:35 Quote
Brasher wrote:
We won't be getting the ohlins version in Aus unfortunately. Just the expert.

What annoys me is the reach, I ride a 18 S-works in XL, this thing is not really any bigger which is what I've been wanting. Front centre and wheelbase is slightly bigger however.

I think I'll keep the mullet setup on the 2018.

How tall are you?
flag Brasher
Posted: Jul 10, 2019 at 4:44 Quote
mmoon wrote:
Brasher wrote:
We won't be getting the ohlins version in Aus unfortunately. Just the expert.

What annoys me is the reach, I ride a 18 S-works in XL, this thing is not really any bigger which is what I've been wanting. Front centre and wheelbase is slightly bigger however.

I think I'll keep the mullet setup on the 2018.

How tall are you?

188cm
flag mikebeeee
Posted: Jul 10, 2019 at 5:33 Quote
Thank you CarlineHix! I'm still struggling though, is this really how Specialized intended us, the consumers/riders/mechanics, to remove this enormous S1506000002 bearing? It seems insane. And the inner sleeve is pretty snug in this frame (it's alloy, btw), there's really very little room between it and the bearing. I suspect I'm going to mess up the sleeve while trying to tap on the bearing. But I can give it a shot.

Does anybody else have any other experience? I've been to two semi-local Spec. dealers, but neither had a newer FSR tool kit (both seemed to be pre-2010). Has anybody found an "official" way to remove this? Is everybody just taping away at these from the inside? I've been wondering if I can find some kind of bearing removal tool at a car shop, somewhere they're used to larger diameter bearings.

CarolineHix wrote:
tmnutan wrote:
Main Pivot Bearing Removal - HOW?!?!

I've been through this forum/thread, loads of great info, but I still don't really understand how you're removing the old main pivot bearings. With the inner spacer/sleeve in there, I can't get a good spot to put a punch on, to knock the bearings out. Did you guys put your punch in the ovalized slots/spaces in the inner spacer and punch that (which would then push against the bearing)? Seems like that would destroy the inner spacer, and I didn't' buy a replacement one of those.

I've looked for a bearing extractor but can't find one big enough for the 50mm inner diameter of the main pivot bearing.

Anybody know what Specialized recommends for main pivot bearing removal? I've emailed them but haven't heard back yet. I know there's an FSR bearing took kit, but I think it's more for pressing than removal...

If your lucky then your bearing will still be intact which means you can smack the thing out from the inner race with a screwdriver and hammer (just go around evenly), it only takes a few hits before it will pop out.

If you were unlucky like me, then you'll need to try and tap just the outer race out. You will most likely need to go in at an angle. It can be done but will take much longer. If you have alloy frame you can be quite rough with it so dont be scared, but carbon i'd probably suggest taking it to an LBS if you are not comfortable doing it yourself.

You can move the inner spacer around so it gets out of the way. Once you get 1 side out. the inner spacer can just be pulled out, it sits above the ridge on the frame itself. its not attached to the bearings in any way.
---
To sum up, Move the inner spacer so it gives you access to the inner race of the bearing you intend to smack out.

There should be enough inner race exposed (Because the inner spacer is not in the way anymore) for you to put a small screwdriver on the bearing inner race.

Work your way around the inner race like that until it comes out.

Alternatively if your inner race is broken or falling out. Then you can actually just pull the inner spacer through the bearing and then proceed to try and get the outer race out. (Which is where you go in at an angle). Just make sure your tapping on the bearing race and not the frame ridge and you'll be fine.
flag joneees21
Posted: Jul 10, 2019 at 6:47 Quote
how do I know what size derrailleur I need? If anyone know it would help so much. Thanks
flag mikebeeee
Posted: Jul 10, 2019 at 8:51 Quote
"Size" is maybe not the best way to think about it... your rear derailleur needs to match your shifter and cassette, and should generally be the shortest-caged rear derailleur you can get away with (shorter = less easily caught and damaged).

If you have a 10- or 7-speed shifter and cassette, you need to be sure the derailleur is compatible. You also need to make sure the derailleur is compatible with the largest cog on the cassette - for example, short cage Shimano Zee derailleurs come in two options, one for 11/28 and one for 11/36. The 28 and 36 are telling you the largest cog they can accommodate. If the biggest cog on your cassette has >28 teeth, you can't use the 11/28 option, you need the 11/36 derailleur. Since you're on the Demo forum, you probably don't have >28 teeth, but you'd have to check.

Most Demos I see use either SRAM 10-speed GX derailleurs or Shimano 10-speed Zee or Saints. Some of the SRAM 10-speed derailleurs/shifters/cassettes are set up in a weird quasi-7-speed configuration - it's still a 10-speed cassette but the 3 biggest cogs are removed and replaced with a thick plastic disc thing. With this set-up, when you shift to the 8th, 9th, or 10th gear the derailleur keeps moving, pushing the chain onto the disc, which slides it back onto your largest cog. It's a pretty weird idea, I'd never choose that if I was starting from scratch (I prefer a full 10 cogs on the cassette).

Hope that helps, kind of a long answer...

joneees21 wrote:
how do I know what size derrailleur I need? If anyone know it would help so much. Thanks
flag CarolineHix
Posted: Jul 10, 2019 at 9:50 Quote
That's basically your choice on how to remove any bearing. Either tap em out or pull them.

On your point tho, i think their kit must include an adaptor for an expanding bolt/insert/bushing in this case being 50mm (inner diameter) Not sure what they do if the bearing is broken or maybe they have one for the outer race as well (62mm)

If you wanna go the pulling route then yeh you'd probably need to look into car bearing extraction tool's. The official specialized kit is in the £££ hundreds.. you really wanna spend that for something you may only need to do a few times ?

It's your choice. Im just saying, its possible to get them out even if you only see like half a mm of something to hit.
Also what is your plan for installing new ones ?
flag CarolineHix
Posted: Jul 10, 2019 at 10:00 Quote
On the current topic. I have the 7 speed (3 cog's removed) version. This was my question i asked on the last page too.

Does it have something to do with the chainline because the carbon's use a compact cassette (7 speed).

I don't think they would make them 7 speed if there wasn't a reason to.

Edit - Also with the gear shifting. For some stupid reason they set it up like that. so 1st-3rd on the shifter tries to change into the black plastic thing.
If you get the alloy, Change that straight away so that 1st = 1st sprocket on the cassette aka Set your cable tension on 7th on the shifter (just click up 3 times on the shifter) before indexing.
That way you won't need that plastic gear cable limiter on the derailleur if you do it this way because you can't overstretch the cable by mistake.

Eek Mint condition sprockets doing nuffin.
photo

 


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