Mondraker Summum

PB Forum :: Downhill
Mondraker Summum
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Posted: Mar 3, 2016 at 15:57 Quote
downhere67 wrote:
GustavoFilipe wrote:
downhere67 wrote:


The post is broken? If so I would just by a regular I beam and use it. The saddle is pimp but it is only for the SDG post.

Yes the post is broken and it's a monolink post and they are too much expensive. The I-Beam post that was attached to the saddle is price tagged in 129$ and that's out of my budget.

Would this work? It is 31.6 I do believe. A lot cheaper than 130.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/race-face-atlas-i-beam-seatpost/rp-prod106648

Yeah! Defenetily a lot cheaper but still I don't have the money for it (I'm 15 btw) so I don't really know if I should sell it or get the money to buy a post…

Do you know if there are any adapters to monolink saddles?

Posted: Mar 7, 2016 at 7:50 Quote
My recent purchase plus a few hope bits

photo
photo

Posted: Mar 21, 2016 at 6:26 Quote
zixs wrote:
Great looking machine. But i am not sure how did you manage to achieve this weight- with my calculations your bike should be around 16kgs, but 15.4 is pretty low.
lighter wheelset- 500g less than than regular
tyres - if they are supergravity that means 1050g per tyre
Brakes - ~ 250g each
Seatpost/seat combo - 200g less than regular
XO crankset- around 800g with bb,cups and bearings
TI bolts- should give you around 100g advantage but not more.

Are you sure your digital scale calibration is correct?

The 2013 model is 14,9kg out of the box without pedals. (http://www.mondraker.com/15/imagenes/catalogue/catalogue_mondraker_2013_2.pdf)
My bike is pretty close to stock, your list is not correct.

Posted: Apr 30, 2016 at 9:31 Quote
After a long time being an owner of Summum frames, finally i found my best setup, after changing a lot of parts. Something in the geometry was wrong, but know i got 10mm stem which currently i think it`s perfect for me. Came from 45mm stem, now i can rail the turns and turn much sharper,easier and active. The only downside which comes with 10mm stem is that you should be more carefull and keep the handlebars stronger, as they are more tend to work with the terrain.

10mm stem on
  10mm stem on

Posted: Jun 4, 2016 at 13:02 Quote
hill is open here, riding time. did not like the shock at first but now it is fine.
photo

https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/13567996/

https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/13567992/

Posted: Jun 8, 2016 at 9:02 Quote
Hi all!

I have a little problem. I have a Large size summum frame with 120mm long headtube, but my geometry set is for S and M 110mm long headtube.

My question is that can i use those headcups for my frame? I mean -+ 1 and 2 degree cups

Thanks in advance Smile

Posted: Jun 8, 2016 at 10:46 Quote
juniorvf154 wrote:
Hi all!

I have a little problem. I have a Large size summum frame with 120mm long headtube, but my geometry set is for S and M 110mm long headtube.

My question is that can i use those headcups for my frame? I mean -+ 1 and 2 degree cups

Thanks in advance Smile

Unfortunately no.
Not unless you cut your head tube down by 10mm. The angle of the cups are specific to the frame size I'm afraid.
If you fitted them, the fork steerer wouldn't fit.

Posted: Jun 9, 2016 at 7:26 Quote
oldmanDan wrote:
juniorvf154 wrote:
Hi all!

I have a little problem. I have a Large size summum frame with 120mm long headtube, but my geometry set is for S and M 110mm long headtube.

My question is that can i use those headcups for my frame? I mean -+ 1 and 2 degree cups

Thanks in advance Smile

Unfortunately no.
Not unless you cut your head tube down by 10mm. The angle of the cups are specific to the frame size I'm afraid.
If you fitted them, the fork steerer wouldn't fit.

thank u

Posted: Jun 10, 2016 at 10:05 Quote
juniorvf154 wrote:
oldmanDan wrote:
juniorvf154 wrote:
Hi all!

I have a little problem. I have a Large size summum frame with 120mm long headtube, but my geometry set is for S and M 110mm long headtube.

My question is that can i use those headcups for my frame? I mean -+ 1 and 2 degree cups

Thanks in advance Smile

Unfortunately no.
Not unless you cut your head tube down by 10mm. The angle of the cups are specific to the frame size I'm afraid.
If you fitted them, the fork steerer wouldn't fit.

thank u

Thats not right - They will be the same kind of headsets that Works Components sell and I have used a headset designed for a 20mm larger headtube before.

I have asked Works previously about this, the offset only goes up by a fraction of a mm when the HT increases and they advised as I already had a headset that 20mm outside what it was designed for would work fine albeit with a potentially slightly lower bearing life (The bearings were fine btw)

If you have the headcups or they are cheap just use them, ask the guys that design / sell the parts like Mondraker etc first before the internets!

Posted: Jun 10, 2016 at 10:53 Quote
Racer951 wrote:
juniorvf154 wrote:
oldmanDan wrote:


Unfortunately no.
Not unless you cut your head tube down by 10mm. The angle of the cups are specific to the frame size I'm afraid.
If you fitted them, the fork steerer wouldn't fit.

thank u

Thats not right - They will be the same kind of headsets that Works Components sell and I have used a headset designed for a 20mm larger headtube before.

I have asked Works previously about this, the offset only goes up by a fraction of a mm when the HT increases and they advised as I already had a headset that 20mm outside what it was designed for would work fine albeit with a potentially slightly lower bearing life (The bearings were fine btw)

If you have the headcups or they are cheap just use them, ask the guys that design / sell the parts like Mondraker etc first before the internets!


Well I am a personal friend of Luis Arraiz, of k9ine industries who was the inventor and manufacturer of the first angle reducing headset cups.
When I spoke to him about exactly this when he was designing them, his answer was the same. Almost.
If the head tube is too short or long it will fit but the stresses (which we all know are extremely high in the head tube ) are transmitted unevenly through the steerer, crown race and bearings into the frame.
This causes the load to concentrate in two areas, one at the front lower edge and one at the rear top edge of the angleset cups.
This can damage the inside of the head tube quite severely. It also damages the fork steerer.
Works components don't make frames. Nor are they accountable for damage to frames by using their head cups so personally I wouldn't do it.

Posted: Jun 14, 2016 at 20:04 Quote
Hi

i was wondering if anyone could tell me what the proper headset bearing speccs are for the 2014 summum.
is this correct ? 1-1/8 36/45 , 45 OD
anything else i should be aware of ?

all these headset standards are a bit confusing to start learningRolleyes

thanks

Posted: Jun 15, 2016 at 11:27 Quote
A summer picture before the first ride of 2016....

photo

Posted: Jun 25, 2016 at 2:45 Quote
oldmanDan wrote:
Racer951 wrote:
juniorvf154 wrote:


thank u

Thats not right - They will be the same kind of headsets that Works Components sell and I have used a headset designed for a 20mm larger headtube before.

I have asked Works previously about this, the offset only goes up by a fraction of a mm when the HT increases and they advised as I already had a headset that 20mm outside what it was designed for would work fine albeit with a potentially slightly lower bearing life (The bearings were fine btw)

If you have the headcups or they are cheap just use them, ask the guys that design / sell the parts like Mondraker etc first before the internets!


Well I am a personal friend of Luis Arraiz, of k9ine industries who was the inventor and manufacturer of the first angle reducing headset cups.
When I spoke to him about exactly this when he was designing them, his answer was the same. Almost.
If the head tube is too short or long it will fit but the stresses (which we all know are extremely high in the head tube ) are transmitted unevenly through the steerer, crown race and bearings into the frame.
This causes the load to concentrate in two areas, one at the front lower edge and one at the rear top edge of the angleset cups.
This can damage the inside of the head tube quite severely. It also damages the fork steerer.
Works components don't make frames. Nor are they accountable for damage to frames by using their head cups so personally I wouldn't do it.

Digging out theri email they say offset differences were around 0.2mm between two 'sets' of cups (not sure what angle) your really telling me that would cause load concentrations that could damage frame headtubes - Luis genuinely belived that? Even though all of the contact points in a headset are chamfered seats and headsets are an interference fit,

You are kind of assuming Works dont do any testing or have any engineering knowlege themselves - I am sure if they were damaging frames they would be out of business by now - Not doubting Luis knew his stuff and I loved the look of the DH bike but it sounds to me like he liked to over think / over engineer everything - Theories that may not translate to reality (like this odd assumption that a this could break or stress actual headtubes), maybe in F1 or Aerospace but not in bicycles where the average headtube is probably 0.2mm welded off centre anyway!

As I say, I will continue to use my headset designed for a 20mm larger headtube, its only been in there for over a year. BTW, im a degree level engineer myself so not a buffoon with no idea.

Posted: Jun 25, 2016 at 5:24 Quote
Chriott87 wrote:
Hi

i was wondering if anyone could tell me what the proper headset bearing speccs are for the 2014 summum.
is this correct ? 1-1/8 36/45 , 45 OD
anything else i should be aware of ?

all these headset standards are a bit confusing to start learningRolleyes

thanks

you'll need the inner diameter, outer diameter, thickness, inside angle and outside angle, after that you can look at different brands/qualities

Posted: Jul 5, 2016 at 21:19 Quote
Hi guys,

where can I get a crown race for the FSA headset the came on a 2013 team frame?

thanks,

dave


 


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