Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
Author Message
flag its-chris
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 8:16 Quote
Hope is supposed to have lot of adjustment


but well I can set up my deores really close to the bar and the lever is quite small
flag samael
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 8:24 Quote
its-chris wrote:
Hope is supposed to have lot of adjustment


but well I can set up my deores really close to the bar and the lever is quite small

OK thanks. I'll check the XTs on my bike as the adjustment range should be similar.
flag bigburd
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 8:35 Quote
XT'S are simply amazing no idea why they go so cheap, plenty of power and adjustment
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 8:38 Quote
samael wrote:

photo

Id love to see a pic of that setup, whilst in the smallest rings front and rear, and again while in the largest rings (ideally with the suspension fully compressed) I'd be surprised if there isn't some issue at one end of the spectrum or the other.
flag thumsup
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 8:38 Quote
Deores are great hydros as well. They have similar adjustability to XT's, but may be more in line with what you want to spend on an 8 year old's bike considering how much power and modulation you really need
flag Nobble
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 8:39 Quote
bigburd wrote:
XT'S are simply amazing no idea why they go so cheap, plenty of power and adjustment
they aren't really that cheap at MSRP. You can thank CRC for the incorrect assumptions about shimano pricing.
flag tbc
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 9:16 Quote
Anyone done much work on 2015 Canyon Strives? My Monarch rear shock is badly damaged due to the bushings at the shock to frame interface not allowing the shock to move freely. My local suspension guy said that its very stiff and is having to speak to Canyon about what to do. They will hopefully replace the unit, but I am worried it is a design fault. Anyone had any experience with anything similar to this?
flag samael
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 11:04 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
samael wrote:

photo

Id love to see a pic of that setup, whilst in the smallest rings front and rear, and again while in the largest rings (ideally with the suspension fully compressed) I'd be surprised if there isn't some issue at one end of the spectrum or the other.

I can take pictures if you like at the extreme ends, though I'm not taking all the air out of my shock to do it compressed. I haven't had any problems running the two largest together, though I rarely do it as the One-Up is there for very steep climbing, so it's used almost exclusively with the granny. I NEVER run my granny on the lower half of the cassette as cross-shifting like this is hard on conventional gears and chains. Running the large front gear somewhere in the middle of the cassette has the same/similar gear ratio, but with a much straighter chain-line, equals less wear and tear overall. It will go down there, granny to 11t, and does work though (You do need a long cage derailleur). I have tested it, but not at full shock compression, though I expect it would be fine. But again, in reality, I would never run the gears like this under normal usage, so it's of little concern to me. Personally, I consider it to be bad form and always try to shift in a fashion that keeps my chain-line as straight as possible. Now, if this was a 3x10 running a 42t One-Up and a chain long enough for it, I would agree that there would be issues on the low end because the chain would simply be too long and the derailleur would slack out. Even running a 24-38 on a 2x10 might might be wide enough to cause issues.
flag ajax-ripper
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 11:06 Quote
Long cage derailleur is good for a 3 x 10 system.. I imagine it would work fine like that
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 11:10 Quote
samael wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
samael wrote:

photo

Id love to see a pic of that setup, whilst in the smallest rings front and rear, and again while in the largest rings (ideally with the suspension fully compressed) I'd be surprised if there isn't some issue at one end of the spectrum or the other.

I can take pictures if you like at the extreme ends, though I'm not taking all the air out of my shock to do it compressed. I haven't had any problems running the two largest together, though I rarely do it as the One-Up is there for very steep climbing, so it's used almost exclusively with the granny. I NEVER run my granny on the lower half of the cassette as cross-shifting like this is hard on conventional gears and chains. Running the large front gear somewhere in the middle of the cassette has the same/similar gear ratio, but with a much straighter chain-line, equals less wear and tear overall. It will go down there, granny to 11t, and does work though (You do need a long cage derailleur). I have tested it, but not at full shock compression, though I expect it would be fine. But again, in reality, I would never run the gears like this under normal usage, so it's of little concern to me. Personally, I consider it to be bad form and always try to shift in a fashion that keeps my chain-line as straight as possible. Now, if this was a 3x10 running a 42t One-Up and a chain long enough for it, I would agree that there would be issues on the low end because the chain would simply be too long and the derailleur would slack out. Even running a 24-38 on a 2x10 might might be wide enough to cause issues.

Yeah, everything you say is spot on, however I know for a fact that bottoming out in the easiest gear on my dh bike would snap my mech clean off, and thats only an 11-25 cassette. Short cage mech and 8 inches of travel, but only 1 ring up front.

My solution? Don't bottom out when in low gears. However setting your own bike up like that is one thing. telling someone else its ok to do so without letting them know the risks is another. No offence meant or anything, i just found myself wondering if your setup required you to always be aware of what gear you are in (as on my dh bike) or if the mech actually has the range to cope no matter what gear combo you mash your shifters into.
flag cjwanner
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 11:11 Quote
On my 2015 Vivid R2C I'm getting an excessive amount of top out until I dampen the rebound down slower than I would ideally like. Anyone else had any issues with this or fix for this problem? Would a rebuild help? Haven't been able to find a solution.
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 11:28 Quote
cjwanner wrote:
On my 2015 Vivid R2C I'm getting an excessive amount of top out until I dampen the rebound down slower than I would ideally like. Anyone else had any issues with this or fix for this problem? Would a rebuild help? Haven't been able to find a solution.

Slow the rebound right down as slow as it can go.
Compress the shock and allow it to rebound.

Does it rebound at the same speed all the way, or is the last half inch or so much faster than the rest?

If the shock speeds up at the end, there is probably air in your damping fluid.
If it stays the same speed all the way out, perhaps you are running a shit ton of preload?

So yeah either a rebuild or a harder spring and less preload.

A rebuild never hurts anyway if its been a while since its last one.
flag cjwanner
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 11:32 Quote
Thanks bud, I'll give that little test a try and double check my pre-load. Might have to get a rebuild anyways.
flag samael
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 12:20 Quote
[Quote="gabriel-mission9"]
samael wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:


I can take pictures if you like at the extreme ends, though I'm not taking all the air out of my shock to do it compressed. I haven't had any problems running the two largest together, though I rarely do it as the One-Up is there for very steep climbing, so it's used almost exclusively with the granny. I NEVER run my granny on the lower half of the cassette as cross-shifting like this is hard on conventional gears and chains. Running the large front gear somewhere in the middle of the cassette has the same/similar gear ratio, but with a much straighter chain-line, equals less wear and tear overall. It will go down there, granny to 11t, and does work though (You do need a long cage derailleur). I have tested it, but not at full shock compression, though I expect it would be fine. But again, in reality, I would never run the gears like this under normal usage, so it's of little concern to me. Personally, I consider it to be bad form and always try to shift in a fashion that keeps my chain-line as straight as possible. Now, if this was a 3x10 running a 42t One-Up and a chain long enough for it, I would agree that there would be issues on the low end because the chain would simply be too long and the derailleur would slack out. Even running a 24-38 on a 2x10 might might be wide enough to cause issues.

Yeah, everything you say is spot on, however I know for a fact that bottoming out in the easiest gear on my dh bike would snap my mech clean off, and thats only an 11-25 cassette. Short cage mech and 8 inches of travel, but only 1 ring up front.

My solution? Don't bottom out when in low gears. However setting your own bike up like that is one thing. telling someone else its ok to do so without letting them know the risks is another. No offence meant or anything, i just found myself wondering if your setup required you to always be aware of what gear you are in (as on my dh bike) or if the mech actually has the range to cope no matter what gear combo you mash your shifters into.

Mine have plenty of play yet and in theory, the VPP won't stretch the chain as much as other pivots.

Here are the pictures at the extreme ends. Like I say, they work, and shift in/out not problem, but I would never run them like this in practice. Well, big to big sometimes maybe, but that's climbing, so I'd not be as concerned with the shock compressing.

photo

photo
flag samael
Posted: Feb 5, 2016 at 12:25 Quote
What is the difference between the Shimano BB71 and M800 BBs, both press fit. Apparently the FSA BB/crank uses a smaller axle than Shimano. Replacing the BB will be probably cheaper than trying to track down larger bearings for the FSA, if that's even possible.

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv65 0.048806
Mobile Version of Website