Trying to replace the bearings in an old sun ringle jumping flea front hub. I found a simple diagram of it here: https://www.bikeschematics.com/bike-schematics/hayes/hayes-jumping-flea/ does anyone have a good way to get those end caps out to get at the bearings? Gave a pretty good yank on them and they didn't want to move. Also doesn't seem like there's much of a way to come at them from the other side.
Been a while since I've seen one of those hubs in the flesh, but IIRC, the two rings furthest outboard in that picture are a press fit into the hubshell and so just need to be pressed out with (not excessive) force.
If you put the correct sized bar (15 or 20mm depending on your setup) just into the end cap but not into the bearing, and then wrench it to one side it will most likely pop the collar and axle spacer off in one. Don't go full ham on it though, if you lean into it and it isnt budging, then excessive force will likely deform things. Next insert a drift through the hubshell from the far side, into one of the slots cut into the center spacer, and knock the bearing outwards.
On the other hand, if you drift the bearing out with the end cap still fitted, it'll probably all come out (spacers and bearing) nicely enough. Either method will probably work. Both *could* damage the hub if done without care. How you approach it is up to you.
Can anyone Identity thease two frames? they came from a scrap yard, the welds and geometry's tell me they couldn't possibly be from big box stores...Please help ID one or both(preferably both!)
Fairly confident the white one is a Norco 125 after clueing in to my known 125 on my wall...2000-2003ish the only thing throwing me off is the press fit B.B
I am aware of that. Indeed it requires more to draw conclusions. I thought it wasteful to try and discuss ALL the aspects of fitting when I was really just curious about the reach measurements associated to rider height (in general). Even myself, I have to get the stem stack height right, the bar rise, the stack for ST length, all these things right until I'm fitted well on a bike. Even other parts of the geo' like chainstay length can "change" the way a bike feels big or small when you're riding I've found. I have a long inseam and long arms, and I don't FIT typical expectations of frame-size for my height--some of which as I was saying is due mostly to individual rider comfort.
I just want clear up that I was merely curious about those particular measurements of his and wasn't suggesting to anyone that I thought these were all that was necessary for assuming the fitting. In fact I doubt there's even any possibility to completely figure frame/bike fitting with measurements alone--even if you have a list of everything. Making adjustments or finding adjustment alterations for increased comfort sure, measurements can help with that.
~JSV
I totally agree with everything you said. I didn't mean to assume that you didn't know what you were asking, I just often see people fall into the trap of comparing one set of dimensions on a bike (usually the current fad) and assuming all ride quality differences result from that. When in reality it is probably half their suspension setup.
Servicing 2014 Boxxer RC forks for the first time (new to me). Bought a service kit which came with Dust seals + foam rings, but the forks currently have dust seals + oil seals. Can anyone advise what should be fitted, I'm certain I've bought the right service kit?
You have the newer service kit. Remove both the oil and dust seals, and fit the newer foam rings and dust seals. This is a nice upgrade. Make sure you only push the new seals in until they are flush with the top of the lowers. It is easy to push them too far in. They only want to go in until the outer edge of the seal is flush with the top of the casting, and level all the way round.
I'm assuming flush with the bottom of the lip where the old flange sits, is that right? Because the newer kit has flangeless seals and the old dust + oil seal setup had flanged dust seals.
Anyone have any experience with replacing the bearing in Race Face bottom brackets? Can't find any new BBs in stock but you can get bearings for them on ebay, just wondering how easy it is to fit them without damaging the parts that cover the external face of the bearings.
Anyone have any experience with replacing the bearing in Race Face bottom brackets? Can't find any new BBs in stock but you can get bearings for them on ebay, just wondering how easy it is to fit them without damaging the parts that cover the external face of the bearings.
it would be the same as anything else, blind bearing puller & slide hammer. without that if you can lay it in such a way to get a punch on the inside edge and work around(I doubt it though)
Hey y'all! I don't have a mantou fork but I just had an idea. Could you take the lowers and turn em around so it looks more nomal? I know some people that hate that "backward" look and I thought about turning the lowers around. Thanks!
Saw a kid at a trail head once with his Manitou on backwards swapping bikes back and forth with his buddy trying to figure out why bike handled weird. I couldn't watch too long before I called them over, loosened a couple stem bolts, flipped his fork around, and told him to try that. He was amazed and appreciative. Just a fine example of why some folks should not work on their own bikes.
Servicing 2014 Boxxer RC forks for the first time (new to me). Bought a service kit which came with Dust seals + foam rings, but the forks currently have dust seals + oil seals. Can anyone advise what should be fitted, I'm certain I've bought the right service kit?
You have the newer service kit. Remove both the oil and dust seals, and fit the newer foam rings and dust seals. This is a nice upgrade. Make sure you only push the new seals in until they are flush with the top of the lowers. It is easy to push them too far in. They only want to go in until the outer edge of the seal is flush with the top of the casting, and level all the way round.
I'm assuming flush with the bottom of the lip where the old flange sits, is that right? Because the newer kit has flangeless seals and the old dust + oil seal setup had flanged dust seals.
Correct. Push the seal in until the edge of the seal is flush with the casting it is pressing into.