Marzocchi 380 Master Thread

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Marzocchi 380 Master Thread
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flag apatipsychonaut4
Posted: Aug 27, 2017 at 13:52 Quote
bat-fastard wrote:
Sounds like the compression stack has dropped off the end of adjuster. Have to take it out of cartridge.
Isn't it supposed to almost drop it when you have 0 clicks on it? And what does this has to do with rebound?
flag bat-fastard
Posted: Aug 28, 2017 at 1:20 Quote
I have some pics of it opened point last couple pages and some instructions. The clicks come from the ball bearing under the adjuster cap not the compression stack in damper.
flag naturaltalent
Posted: Sep 12, 2017 at 21:35 Quote
I just though that I would post some general information about the newer 2017 380's, not the new bomber 380's but the standard 2017's.

So I just picked up a 2017 Marzocchi 380 Ti to replace a crappy boxxer WC on my bike that needed a service every 2 days of riding and it appears that some of the quirks have been worked out of the fork compared to the previous 2015 380 Ti I had. ALL of the damper adjuster knobs spin nice and easily, and the damper is nice and silent, like it makes almost no noise, even at the extremes of the external adjusters. The elastomer that everyone has been cutting has been changed. It is now hollow in the center for the most part and has 5mm holes drilled through the sides every 15mm or so to allow it to compress easier, no need to cut it anymore it works great out of the box (I forgot to take a picture of it while I had it out, darn). What is strange is the fork shipped with the old style bottom out elastomer (solid elastomer cylinder) taped to the inside of the box. The pictures on the internetz show this fork with the red NOK low friction seals but mine came with the green SKF units. As usual the fork came out of the box with no grease on the seals, but it did have plenty of oil inside of it, about 120ml came out of each side. The stanchions are the anodized black ones, I won't have a report on the durability of the stanchions compared to the espresso ones for a while, but my guess is that they probably won't show the wear like the espresso ones did. It seems that fox has probably upped the quality control on the newer stuff.
flag Tazo
Posted: Sep 13, 2017 at 10:23 Quote
Did someone send the fork for middle stroke support tune and can take the shim stack out and take a picture?? Because i saw a couple of people in internet, that they made it, but none of the pictured the tune from the inside. They were just sayn', that is completely different and nice as a feel. Sooo aanyone?
flag apatipsychonaut4
Posted: Sep 13, 2017 at 19:23 Quote
naturaltalent wrote:
I just though that I would post some general information about the newer 2017 380's, not the new bomber 380's but the standard 2017's.

So I just picked up a 2017 Marzocchi 380 Ti to replace a crappy boxxer WC on my bike that needed a service every 2 days of riding and it appears that some of the quirks have been worked out of the fork compared to the previous 2015 380 Ti I had. ALL of the damper adjuster knobs spin nice and easily, and the damper is nice and silent, like it makes almost no noise, even at the extremes of the external adjusters. The elastomer that everyone has been cutting has been changed. It is now hollow in the center for the most part and has 5mm holes drilled through the sides every 15mm or so to allow it to compress easier, no need to cut it anymore it works great out of the box (I forgot to take a picture of it while I had it out, darn). What is strange is the fork shipped with the old style bottom out elastomer (solid elastomer cylinder) taped to the inside of the box. The pictures on the internetz show this fork with the red NOK low friction seals but mine came with the green SKF units. As usual the fork came out of the box with no grease on the seals, but it did have plenty of oil inside of it, about 120ml came out of each side. The stanchions are the anodized black ones, I won't have a report on the durability of the stanchions compared to the espresso ones for a while, but my guess is that they probably won't show the wear like the espresso ones did. It seems that fox has probably upped the quality control on the newer stuff.

nice info!
flag way2manyhobbies2keep
Posted: Sep 14, 2017 at 17:19 Quote
photo

Installed the updated bumper, uncut it is far more compliant and linear, still only using about 7" of travel but it racks well

went down to 110cc of oil in each leg

3 years on the original seals! I should have replaced them but I want to see how long they will go

I removed the shrink wrap and immediately regret it, from silent to rattling

photo

I checked my high speed shim stack and it looks like the largest 27mm? shim I have a 4 stack of and then 1 each down from there
flag rich-bell
Posted: Oct 4, 2017 at 12:09 Quote
I have just got hold of some 2015 380 C2R2 Ti, they feel way to stiff for me and checking the spring it is the extra hard grey ti spring.

Going by the below scale, being 168lbs I should require the medium spring. However as I understand from several comments here should I be going for the hard spring instead?

120-155lbs soft
145-180lbs medium
180-220lbs hard
210-250lbs x- hard
flag staike
Posted: Oct 4, 2017 at 12:22 Quote
Definitely hard, I'm 15 lbs lighter than you and on a hard. The scale you posted might be for a 888?
flag naturaltalent
Posted: Oct 4, 2017 at 12:24 Quote
rich-bell wrote:
I have just got hold of some 2015 380 C2R2 Ti, they feel way to stiff for me and checking the spring it is the extra hard grey ti spring.

Going by the below scale, being 168lbs I should require the medium spring. However as I understand from several comments here should I be going for the hard spring instead?

120-155lbs soft
145-180lbs medium
180-220lbs hard
210-250lbs x- hard

The firm (hard) spring would probably be perfect for you. I weigh 145 lbs and the medium spring is just right for me, almost a tad on the soft side.
flag rich-bell
Posted: Oct 4, 2017 at 12:31 Quote
I pinched it from: http://marzocchiworkshop.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/understanding-380-c2r2.html?m=1

I am going to send them to J-tech for a service but they want £85 for a replacement steel spring. TF sell them at half that price so I want to swap the spring first before I send them off, and so just want to make sure I'm getting the right spring.
flag rich-bell
Posted: Oct 4, 2017 at 12:48 Quote
Thanks for the reply guys, I'll go for the hard spring.
Just double checking that this is the correct spring?

https://www.tftuned.com/888-rc3rcvevo-spring-2010-38mm-only/p1916
flag bat-fastard
Posted: Oct 4, 2017 at 13:33 Quote
rich-bell wrote:
Thanks for the reply guys, I'll go for the hard spring.
Just double checking that this is the correct spring?

https://www.tftuned.com/888-rc3rcvevo-spring-2010-38mm-only/p1916

yip thats it, 380 is same as 888 from 2010 on.
flag rich-bell
Posted: Oct 4, 2017 at 13:41 Quote
Brilliant cheers!

Finally removing the spring, is it just a case pulling the spring out once the top cap is removed?

I was giving it a good pull and it didn't feel like it wanted to come out, not wanting to force anything I have left it for now while in search of a service guide.
flag bat-fastard
Posted: Oct 4, 2017 at 15:17 Quote
rich-bell wrote:
Brilliant cheers!

Finally removing the spring, is it just a case pulling the spring out once the top cap is removed?

I was giving it a good pull and it didn't feel like it wanted to come out, not wanting to force anything I have left it for now while in search of a service guide.
yip give spring a good tug, its a push fit on the spring holder just.

 


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